Welcome to the SeeMeCNC Community

Hello Guys,

I wanted to ask some opinions on this test cube.

Printer: Rostock V3
Slicer: MatterControl
Material: SeeMeCNC Dark Blue PLA
Extruder Temp: 205C
Bed Temp: 60C
Infill: 10%
Bed surface: White Buildtak

Special Settings:
Infill Overlap 0.4mm
Retraction: 1.0mm

Printer? Slicer?

mhackney wrote:Printer? Slicer?

Printer and Slicer are mentioned above ,good sir.

Sorry about that! I usually do read posts but I see from the time I posted that I was at a friend's birthday dinner and probably had one too many red wines.

Can't be too precise from one photos but I see:

• corners are pretty straight, there is a little variation to them, this indicates you have a pretty good mechanical build but might be printing a little to fast
• evidence of small voids on the perimeters consistent with filament starving. Your temp is a bit high, since I have a stock V3 setup so our temps should be reasonably well calibrated and I have the same blue PLA, I print it at 195 deg C.

mhackney wrote:Sorry about that! I usually do read posts.
Can't be too precise from one photos but I do see evidence of small voids on the perimeters consistent with filament starving. Your temp is a bit high, since I have a stock V3 setup so our temps should be reasonably well calibrated and I have the same blue PLA, I print it at 195 deg C.

I'll try a reprint at that temp later. Do you also have the vertical bands on your prints? Google tells me its belt tensioning. If so, Can I tighten the belts further with belt clips?

Search "banding" here and you will find more posts than you can read in a day! We went through a long discussion, experimentation about it. Bottom line is, moving to Duet with it's more precise motion control eliminated banding for me on ALL of my delta printers. My new V3 exhibits the banding. So I know the only significant difference is the controller.

mhackney wrote:Search "banding" here and you will find more posts than you can read in a day! We went through a long discussion, experimentation about it. Bottom line is, moving to Duet with it's more precise motion control eliminated banding for me on ALL of my delta printers. My new V3 exhibits the banding. So I know the only significant difference is the controller.

Hello,

Thanks for the tip. I'll look into an alternative board soon but for now I at least know my printer is working as expected which gives me some peace of mind.

yes, don't sweat the banding! It is worse on dark opaque filaments like your blue and black. You barely see it in translucent filaments.

Here is a model I made last year to test banding: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BxntG ... klRVFJ5TmM

mhackney wrote:yes, don't sweat the banding! It is worse on dark opaque filaments like your blue and black. You barely see it in translucent filaments.

Here is a model I made last year to test banding: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BxntG ... klRVFJ5TmM

Let me ask one more thing.

I have an issue with back pressure. So now I am douthing if my hotend if properly assembled. Could you confirm that the nozzle is supposed to stick out this much on the stock extruder. the heatbrake is seated flush with the top of the heater block. no thread is sticking out.

I have a good idea what is causing this hockey puck and I have reseated the bowden tube on the hotend a few times and used the provided clips.

Heres a picture of the problem I am encountering: and a picture of my hotend: General pictures of my whole bowden setup:

Ah, now I connect the dots on who you are! Welcome to the forum. I posted some stuff in Facebook, let me copy it here:

Ok, then I think I understand what the problem is and maybe a way to fix it. The tube is not inserting into the top of the heartbreak properly. The design of this hot end has a large space between the top adapter and the heartbreak.
The red part is the Jet and is not there in your/my hotend. That leaves a large gap so the PTFE tube needs to insert in the top of the bottom part and then pushed all the way down to the bottom. You can try tapering the outside edge of the PTFE slightly with a sharp hobby knife. And make sure the first 2" of tube is as straight as you can get it before inserting. If you can remove the nozzle and heat block from the bottom, then remove the heat break you could test the PTFE fit in it outside the hotend. There *could* be a machining burr or something that is preventing full seating of the tube. It might be difficult to disassemble an HE280 though, I haven't tried it.

Hello All,

I'd love some feedback on this print. I am working to get the perfect PLA settings for my printer. I see defects on the side of the print and I need to find a way to make the supports easier to remove. They are too tight to the print.

These three fan shrouds were printed together. The fan shroud that sat in the middle of the build plate shows no major defects while the other two do on their outer side.

The Print: Settings:

MatterControl 1.4 with MatterSlice Engine
Material: SeeMeCNC Blue PLA
Thanks a Bunch guys!

The only thing that I would focus on is your Temperature and Gap, 210 makes it very runny so it essentially snots everywhere. My extrusion multiplier is set to 1 but that is dependent on how calibrated your extruder is. If you remove the Bowden tube from the hotend and manually extrude 100 mm, measure that it is 100 mm with calipers. If not, you'll have to do the math and save it to your machine. Yours doesn't look like it's being starved so I think you are good.

If you can test your max feedrate with the lowest possible temp that should help a lot in controlling the overflow and all the pimples you see on the surface.

As far as the spacing for support connecting to your model, you can find that setting under General-Support Material-Air Gap

Vertical banding on delta printers is symptomatic of firmware that uses segmentation and/or stepper drivers that don't do low current microstepping well.