Heater Bed Power Connector melted.

[omnibus]

Hello there piece makers!

I been printing for about a year on my Rostock V2 - but I got a problem I cannot seem to fix.

The positive power wire from the rambo to the bed, melted in the green wire inserts. (See picture)
I peeled away the green bubble of plastic, but it is so melted I cannot get the screw out to remove the wire.

Is my board dead?
Any help would be great. I got a new roll of ABS and some DnD to play!

-Omnibus

[omnibus]

Also I notice that the board is different, if I need a board is this the new one? Will it fit in the Rostock V2?
https://www.seemecnc.com/collections/pa ... controller

[wdmarine]

I am sorry to hear about the melted connector. It is a known issue and it is why it is important to use bootlace ferrules on the ends of stranded wire that is inserted into screw down connectors:

http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php ... 61#p105261

If you end up needing one, I've got a brand new Max v3 RAMbo board I replaced with an upgrade immediately after building my v3.

[DeltaCon]

This is very typical for neglected screwterminals. Like checking the bolts of your car rims a few kilometers after changing them, it is good to check on the screws of your screwterminals. It is not like they get loose by vibration, but by deforming of the wirestrands. This forum is full of pictures like yours (and much worse too!)

[Xenocrates]

WD-marine, the V3 is the one he was questioning if it would fit.

Omnibus, it is repairable. The Phoenix screw terminals in question are a standard part, and can be desoldered. If you decide not to desolder it (Plenty of tutorial threads doing the same thing for the same reason), I would replace it with a Duet (Ethernet, wifi, .8.5 is my order of preference, but I prefer wired to wireless) controller, which also fits in the same location (I have a mounting plate on Repables with 2 60mm fans for the back, it does fit, even with 20mm thick fans and a lot of extra wiring)

[wdmarine]

I absolutely agree with Xenocrates. I replaced my RAMbo with a Duet Wifi board and without a doubt it has been the best upgrade of the many I have made.

On top of the terrific Wifi enabled web interface, my stepper motors are now whisper quiet. I also appreciate features such as not allowing the effector assembly to go outside of the build radius even if I accidentally direct it to through manual control. Its stepper drivers also have stall detection and will reduce the torque if the nozzle ever hits the bed. And, the board can also be powered by 24V, which even further quieted the steppers. These are just some of the many great features of the board.

To wrap all this goodness up, the developer of the firmware, dc42, is very active on this and on Duet's forums (and others) and kindly replies to questions quickly.

I couldn't be happier with the Duet Wifi.

[omnibus]

These forums are awesome, Thank you.

I think I am going to try to repair it.
I searched the forums for options.

I will head to Vetco tomorrow and see if they got some screw terminals that will fit and an SSR.
This will hopefully get me up and running soon.

I will order the on the Duet Wifi board - it looks cool, I believe it means that I can connect and print via wifi? ooohhh yeah.

Awesome.

[omnibus]

You know I just removed the screw block terminal from the rambo - and dropped my soldering iron on the carpet. How did I put this thing together without burning down my house?

But, I think its going to work again. Board looks okay otherwise.

Question - do I need the PanelDue or can I still use the the same lcd display one on the Duet?

[DeltaCon]

You can not use the existing LCD display. If you wish an LCD screen, you will have to buy a PanelDue. But on the other hand, I never felt the need for one. I am using the webinterface on a computer next to the printer, and that really is great!

[Xenocrates]

One thing to note thought is that the Duet boards use Molex KK type terminals, which while the same pitch as the existing ones, are not compatible with the Molex LP terminals, and use a different style of internal crimp terminals. The quick method is to cut the old ends off and reterminate them, but you can also make pigtail adapters if you'd prefer to be able to go back to a Rambo (I don't know why you would though). See https://duet3d.com/wiki/Connector_and_s ... rt_numbers for the connector part numbers.