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My RMv2 desperately needs an enclosure (I'm getting 15C temperature differential between the center of the bed and the edge). I'm thinking about simple ways to do this, and came across this HDPE concrete forming tube (http://www.menards.com/main/building-ma ... c-5652.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;).

I'm thinking that I can, at a minimum, cut one side to be a door, either by simply putting a hinge on the cut-out piece or by using a sheet of plexiglass, and then putting in a small window at the bottom to see the LCD. If I put the domed cap on the top, I should be able to pull that off when I need to change the filament. If I do it right, I'm thinking I might be able to put something like a hollow lazy suzan under the tube to allow me to swivel it around if I've got a clear door so I can see other angles.

The two main things I'm not sure about are a) will the lack of airflow cause heating problems for the electronics and/or the filament spool, and b) will the inside temperature be low enough to avoid hitting the glass point on the HDPE?

What do you guys think? Am I off my rocker here?

You do not want to heat it above 50 degs.

You should be good with the hdpe.


As for the electronics, i have not had a problem yet. Mine goes up to 36 degs in a dedicated ikea cupboard. But i have not gone to 50 degs. Once i install the heatpump it will heatup the enclosure and cool the electronics.

As for your problem, you need some kind of heat spreader, an aluminium or copper plate between glass and onyx to solve your problem.

Hmm, how thick would copper need to be? Or, rephrased, would something like this (http://www.amazon.com/Copper-Sheet-Meta ... B00AKMNNX4" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;) be thick enough?

I used 1/16" thick.

https://www.onlinemetals.com/check_orde ... &varstep=2" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Coupon code ERA5C for -15% thru 1/31. Hopefully this works for everyone and not just me.

15% code worked for me - thanks.

I've not done any metalwork before... how'd you cut the copper sheet down to a circle? Is it OK to put a hole in the center to use as a pivot?

I have done several heat plates and my long time hobby is machining. There are many ways that the copper can be cut.

An easy way to layout the cut is to place the glass plate on the copper and scribe with a sharp object. The copper can then be cut using the following methods for example from easist to hardest. I am sure there ar others. One that I would reccomend is grinding withe a disk or Dremel. The soft copper will tend to gum up the wheel an stop it cutting. It may also develop enough heat to burst the wheel.

1) Saw using a band saw. A 4"X6" cutoff saw works well. There are a lot of these around. Harbor Freight, Grizzly

2) Scroll Saw like a Delta 20" wood scrolling saw (jigsaw).

3) Saber saw with metal cutting blade. A lot of people have these stuck back from weekend projects. Support the stock well an push down firmly with the saw.

4) Coping Saw. This works but by the time you are done you will have arms like Popeye the Sailor Man.

You can also use Canola Oil to lubricate and prevent jamming.

I can also cut it for you if you want to send it to me. PM if interested.

Couldn't you cut it with snips like these? http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.a ... at=51&ap=1" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Or is it too thick?

Having saws I have never tried it. I would be concerned about edge distortion when it is cut.

I always figured people would just use a hammer and tap it flat after cutting I guess. I dunno

Squibbles wrote:I always figured people would just use a hammer and tap it flat after cutting I guess. I dunno

That will warp it.

My copper sheet arrived today, and in terrible condition. Two of the corners were clearly dinged, one of them so badly that it had both scraped off metal from the surface it had encountered and also been curled so badly that there's a 1cm difference between the corner resting on the table and the top of the curve. The rest of the plate has been bent, dinged, and scratched.

Maybe that's what the extra $15 pays for from that other copper place: proper shipping materials.

teoman wrote:
As for the electronics, i have not had a problem yet. Mine goes up to 36 degs in a dedicated ikea cupboard. But i have not gone to 50 degs. Once i install the heatpump it will heatup the enclosure and cool the electronics.

Any chance you could share what ikea cupboard? Most of the ones I can see on the ikea website are too small to house the rostock max v2..... only one I could find was this one but it is too expensive :http://www.ikea.com/de/de/catalog/products/20242277/

Search the forume for ikea and you will find my thread.

Honestly no one can remember the nAmes of all tHt ikea stuff. Shnörkstrom or billy or whatever

teoman wrote:Search the forume for ikea and you will find my thread.

Honestly no one can remember the nAmes of all tHt ikea stuff. Shnörkstrom or billy or whatever

OK - actually there are a bunch of different ikea furniture pieces mentioned in that thread - one of which is this:

http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/20242277/#" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I think it could look pretty cool in there, also I like the suggestion to integrate a peltier device on top (is metal) so that the temperature can be controlled.... that being said, I guess that is a pretty expensive version, will go and take a look on the weekend and report back.

I do have an enclosure, it's nice, made most of the parts with pla, no problems with it so far, the bad part, I used tempered glass for the sides and door, that is the expensive part, you know what I mean. Did a few other improvements as well, want to send some pictures so bad, just haven't figured out how to post them yet to this site.

This is my simple eclosure to protect from drafts. Keeps ambient temp up 30 deg F. I have taped off the electronic vent holes to remove that draft source and removed the rear smoked plastic cover to let the electronics vent below the bed surface. The top was just a scrap piece of OSB and the sheet is 4 mil thick plastic for covering windows in the winter ( can be found in rolls near weatherstripping). Door flap and bottom held in place with binder clips.