Welcome to the SeeMeCNC Community

So my latest issue is that after doing an auto calibration, the bed is level along X, but tilted in Y. At the Y tower, 50mm from center, the hotend is about .27mm high, and at -50mm from center it is around .27 low. So I've been doing an autocal, placing a shim under the build plate at the Y tower, and resetting the Z height.

Update: I was able to unload the filament and clear out the clogs. I then let the hot end cool down and performed a calibration. Then I set about printing a part - a challenge coin similar to the "googly eyes" SeeMeCNC logo. The printer worked well, although it seemed like the first layer or two weren't quite what I'm used to on other printers, and then as soon as the coin body was done and it was time to start printing the detail features, the whole part let loose from the bed and moved around with the print head. Fail. I think the issue might be with the printer settings now, as the printer itself seems to be functioning well (extruding filament, moving in all 3 directions, etc.). I have copied some of the settings previously suggested in this forum and will try those later this week. However, if anyone has anything additional to add, I welcome that. Thanks!

Figure I might as well kick over this stone now, as i just discovered it.
You cannot use microstepping on a 12V rated motor on a 12V rated power source.
https://www.seemecnc.com/collections/pa ... pper-motor
They draw appx. .35 amps at 12v and are 1.8 degree (200 step).

That's why this thing is so noisy, the stepper driver cannot control the current in a high inductance coil that self limits the current.
Same reason MakerBot T-O-M failed and had a major motor change.

https://github.com/rcarlyle/StepperSim

motor data sheet http://www.automationtechnologiesinc.co ... 033-4A.pdf

Basically, at 60mm's carriage speed, not effector speed, we already see the inductance high enough the driver is maxed out. Meaning current lags where it should be. Simply put, do not run a 12V rated motor with a microstepping driver on 12V because there is no "headroom" for the driver to actually control current. Like an amplifier driven to clipping levels, the music (motion) pretty much becomes noise (distortion).

Simply changing the motors to a rating somewhere between 0.8A to about 1.2A rated motors in the same size would totally change how the machine sounds and prints.

Should have added, When you see the blue line BELOW the RED line= BAD. AKA Clipping
Per the instructions in the data sheet, the example.
Again, even as low as 40mm/s the curve begins to appear that we are lagging and only gets worse the faster you go.

https://youtu.be/MMIU6IxrZzg

I did an updated video of my Eris printing since the replacement hotend assembly was installed.

Two things still:
1.) Had to remove the ultralex sticker and started printing on glass with glue stick which sticks well. I used business cards underneath to keep the glass from sliding and the clips holding the bed tightly. Auto-calibration now works fairly well, the z-offset is really low or it's slightly off level. I made the first layer height in Simplify3D at 200% to get it to not jam the extruder from printing too low.

2.) JATMN gave me advise to unscrew the heatsync and make sure the ptfe tube is all the way in to the heatblock, hold the tube eyelet lock in and tighten to not crush the tube but make sure it's still seated. I did this and I assume the tube is as close as I can get it. I tried printing at 215 for the first layer, then 210 for the rest. It still printed but it's under extruding, and the print is very brittle. I'm using this filament: http://www.247prints.org/category/pla-filament. It seems 220 is the sweet spot still, I just worry about printing PLA at 220, it might be because of my print speed (40-60mm/s) but it wouldn't cause the issue with the heat being so high. Is there some trick for making the hotend print at lower temps? With higher temps I still have hairs and stringing.

The parts I have got it to print well, look great. I just want to fine tune the settings down so I get consistent nice prints. I'm still using JATMN's S3D profile from this thread which has seemed to be the best results so far. But I may try going back to MatterControl default settings (which I thought was 220C as well)

I think SeeMeCNC really, really, really, needs to take this advice and implement to production. Yes, this is going to cause a version issue and yes, people are going to have to know which motors they have, but as predicted, using much better rated motors with lower inductance considering the 12V source makes a HUGE difference in sound and I'm more than sure that's going to also translate to print quality by removing some ridges I saw in prints that looked like stepper clipping.

These are the motors upgraded to for XYZ https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015SS3Y7O
Plug in compatible, just requires updating firmware with proper vref settings.
config.h file attached

Also, found that the latest firmware did not by default enable the LCD. I fixed by changing the "else" statement.
https://github.com/seemecnc/RostockMAX/ ... r/FIRMWARE

Again, words, pictures, nothing is going to describe this other than just doing it. It's not even the same printer.

I don't know if you have a point about motors or not, nor do I know which motors are currently delivered in the products. However, burying it this very large thread that has many different things being said probably isn't the best way to get it noticed or discussed. The people that matter may not even be reading it in depth anymore. I'd suggest pulling all your info into a new thread on the subject.

Jetguy wrote:I think SeeMeCNC really, really, really, needs to take this advice and implement to production. Yes, this is going to cause a version issue and yes, people are going to have to know which motors they have, but as predicted, using much better rated motors with lower inductance considering the 12V source makes a HUGE difference in sound and I'm more than sure that's going to also translate to print quality by removing some ridges I saw in prints that looked like stepper clipping.

These are the motors upgraded to for XYZ https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015SS3Y7O
Plug in compatible, just requires updating firmware with proper vref settings.
config.h file attached

Also, found that the latest firmware did not by default enable the LCD. I fixed by changing the "else" statement.
https://github.com/seemecnc/RostockMAX/ ... r/FIRMWARE

Again, words, pictures, nothing is going to describe this other than just doing it. It's not even the same printer.

That link you posted was for firmware posted 3 years ago, Try this one: https://github.com/seemecnc/Firmware.

Nice find on the motors,,,, I'll have to pick up a few to swap out the ones in my Eris, although I'm in no hurry.

Thanks, sorry I did USE the latest firmware but in posting the link, messed up.
Again, I found 2 minor issues in current (AKA the latest, AKA the link you posted) firmware.
Specifically, a comment about the Z probe pin blew errors in the latest ARDUINO IDE for reasons I couldn't figure out, so i just removed the comment in config.h, and by default, the LCD is not enabled when type 3 AKA ERIS is selected.

John should have pushed a fix for that this morning JetGuy.

The only way to know that John, etc. are seeing the issues you have is if you contact them directly.

g.

Jetguy wrote:Thanks, sorry I did USE the latest firmware but in posting the link, messed up.
Again, I found 2 minor issues in current (AKA the latest, AKA the link you posted) firmware.
Specifically, a comment about the Z probe pin blew errors in the latest ARDUINO IDE for reasons I couldn't figure out, so i just removed the comment in config.h, and by default, the LCD is not enabled when type 3 AKA ERIS is selected.

And the display is still off by default,,,,Have you figured it out yet?

And I'm done fiddling for the night, and have reloaded the old firmware.

The display is off by default because the Eris has no display...

g.

geneb wrote:The display is off by default because the Eris has no display...

g.

So I reverted to the previous Eris Firmware that allowed the display to be used.

Use this config.h or edit yours

Basically, I edited line 738 near the end of the config.h.

Basically, just follow me through this bit of code.
Up higher in the config, when you define the printer type, 3 is for the ERIS.
It begins at line 735
#if PRINTER == 1 || PRINTER == 2 What this line does is says if you define printer type 1 or 2 then LCD is enabled (feature controller type 13)
#define FEATURE_CONTROLLER 13
#else Meaning or if this other condition which since type 3 is not type 1 or 2 then it executes the next line
#define FEATURE_CONTROLLER 13 This was the line changed.

It originally said type 0 which is disabled and that disabled BOTH LCD and SD card.
Changing to type 13 makes it a standard Reprap discount 4x20 character LCD display type with SD card support

Oops, caution, caution my config was for changed motors!!!! Do not use the whole config if you did not match my XYZ Eris motor upgrade.
Just change line 738 in your config.h

Thanks for the walk through. The only computer language I had learned was BASIC,,,, And that was entered on punch cards.

Jetguy wrote:Oops, caution, caution my config was for changed motors!!!! Do not use the whole config if you did not match my XYZ Eris motor upgrade.
Just change line 738 in your config.h

Thanks for the warning!!!

That did the trick! Now to install the new HE280 hotend that was waiting for me when I got home. I assume that'll take care of the unlevel bed effect after doing autocallibrations.

Admittedly, this is a sloppy way to fix it. I should make a conditional statement for type 3 and make it enabled, thus leaving type 4 also disabled (I think that's Droplit). Doesn't really matter that i know of, but somebody could prove me wrong.

I was just trying to minimize the edit and make it work for ERIS. Hopefully nobody gets up in a twist over it.
Again, I should follow proper coding practice, I should fork github, make my own branch and so forth, but this was over a 2 second switch to enable a feature that arguably could be enabled by default and not matter one bit.

How do you all feel about the LED inside the part cooling ducts? Do you think it obstructs enough airflow to matter on prints with steep overhangs?

Personally I feel the cooling needs to be stronger over all.. I generally print with a small desk fan pointed at the print as well most of the time.

JATMN wrote:Personally I feel the cooling needs to be stronger over all..

After performing several +8 hr prints, I would concur. I had instances of thermal creep on the hotend which ended up jamming the filament at about the 6 hr mark.

sgraber wrote:

JATMN wrote:Personally I feel the cooling needs to be stronger over all..

After performing several +8 hr prints, I would concur. I had instances of thermal creep on the hotend which ended up jamming the filament at about the 6 hr mark.

After noticing a dead air space between the liner and the heatsink, I perforated the heat sink to allow some airflow through to keep the liner cool. It probably wouldn't need as much as I did.