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What is considered excessive? using the auto cal, and calibration wizard, my offsets for X,Y and Z are 95, 0, and 239. Is it possible to to get X and Z closer to Y?

Yes, by adjusting the endstop screws the old-school way
I think when your auto-cal reports that much difference (if 1.8degree steppers we are talking about almost 3mm adjustment on the Z) you can see the head jerking a bit after homing. You won't see that if your endstops are almost equal.

DeltaCon wrote:Yes, by adjusting the endstop screws the old-school way
I think when your auto-cal reports that much difference (if 1.8degree steppers we are talking about almost 3mm adjustment on the Z) you can see the head jerking a bit after homing. You won't see that if your endstops are almost equal.

I wish the Eris had endstop screws. They appear to be using the plastic belt splices as triggers for the endstop switches.

Oh, excuse me, I missed that your question was about the Eris, and I did not know that the Eris has no endstopscrew either
3mm of a correction must be measurable somewhere. Are your endstop switches any loose perhaps?
But I suppose with tips likes this I make you feel like a noob, and I know you're not!

DeltaCon wrote:Oh, excuse me, I missed that your question was about the Eris, and I did not know that the Eris has no endstopscrew either
3mm of a correction must be measurable somewhere. Are your endstop switches any loose perhaps?
But I suppose with tips likes this I make you feel like a noob, and I know you're not!

No offense taken. I am considering moving the switches around to see if the massive offset follows the switch.

You could just cirkel the wires on the board from tower X to Y, Y to Z and Z to X (don't forget tp change the motors accordingly. Your large offset would cirkel along if the failure is in the switch.

It would really be nice if they had build documentation for the Eris printers. I was wrong about the piece of plastic that they attached to the belt to hit the microswitch doubling as a belt splice also,,, the belts are attached to the carriages, and the splice id just clipped onto the belt. So it appears that all I have to do is to move that clip along the belt. I ASSume that I have to relieve tension on the belt by loosening the motor, and then I have to figure out which way to move it,,,, and by how many teeth to move it.

Time to pour another cup of coffee, and see what happens.

So to close out this little adventure, You do not have to disassemble the printer to move the endstop clips,,,, And I would suggest marking the belt before moving them. I ended with my endstop offset within, I think, a reasonable range,,,39,9, and 0.

I had bought some springs from McMaster-Carr to take up any slop in the arms, and with the outrageous offset, I could not get it to calibrate. Now, with the springs, and calibrating on bare glass, I get a deviation of .04.

I am happy with how it's printing now. When I first installed the springs, I could not get it to calibrate,,,,, the excessive endstop was causing the hotend to dig into the build surface. even after I played around with the acceleration settings, and z-probe sensitivity in the firmware. After getting the endstop offsets close to each other, I was able to reinstall the springs, callibrate on bare glass, and followed it up with the delta config wizard. The hotend is tight, and the first layer looks real good, and consistent.

The McMaster-Carr part number for the springs is 94135K54. I used a pair of wire cutters to cut the loop to make it a hook.