Thanks for the add - I am having trouble calibrating my Rostock Max V2. The printer is all stock and has been sitting for a while, we moved and unfortunately setting it back up wasn't a priority. However, now I am trying to get it printing again. I have tried all day yesterday with the calibration and it still a bit off. The tower cal script seems to run fine, and all axis points look good, however, when I start a print it digs into the platter on the right edge through the back.
Any thoughts, I am using matter control, could there be a setting in MC that I am missing?
Thanks in advance.
Rob
Calabration
Re: Calabration
Same exact spot where mine always gave me trouble. :/
What I finally did was to buy the Duet Smart Effector Adapter from 713maker as well as a Duet Smart effector. Problem solved.
https://713maker.com/rostock/duet-smart ... or-adaptor
https://www.duet3d.com/DeltaSmartEffector
I already use a Duet Ethernet board, so it dropped right in.
I did make a modification to the DSE, the heater cartridge connector burned out on the DSE, so I desoldered the 2x3 pin connector that provided power to the heater as well as the fans and replaced it with a 2x2 connector for the fans.
Funny how those tiny little pins won't handle that much power. Weird, right?
For the heater I used a RC battery plug and replaced the leads back to the Duet with 12 gauge BNTECHGO wire. Be forewarned, their #12 gauge is more along the lines of a *fat* #10 gauge. It wasn't a big deal, I clipped the extra off and soldered what remained to the RC battery connector (pro tip from my old Journeyman: bend the strands of the wire over that you want to keep, cut the remainder, and you can more easily straighten out the strands that you want to use. It's makes for a neater job). The reason for using this wire is that it is super flexible.
I used scrap cartridge heater leads from the connector to the board (I kept it short, about 1-1/2").
https://www.amazon.com/d/Electrical-Wir ... wire&psc=1
While I was at it I replaced the leads to the 1x8 connector that sends out thermistor signal as well as the probe signals. This wire was especially nice for stripping as well as fitting perfectly in terminals that came with the DSE.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GN ... UTF8&psc=1
What I finally did was to buy the Duet Smart Effector Adapter from 713maker as well as a Duet Smart effector. Problem solved.
https://713maker.com/rostock/duet-smart ... or-adaptor
https://www.duet3d.com/DeltaSmartEffector
I already use a Duet Ethernet board, so it dropped right in.
I did make a modification to the DSE, the heater cartridge connector burned out on the DSE, so I desoldered the 2x3 pin connector that provided power to the heater as well as the fans and replaced it with a 2x2 connector for the fans.
Funny how those tiny little pins won't handle that much power. Weird, right?
For the heater I used a RC battery plug and replaced the leads back to the Duet with 12 gauge BNTECHGO wire. Be forewarned, their #12 gauge is more along the lines of a *fat* #10 gauge. It wasn't a big deal, I clipped the extra off and soldered what remained to the RC battery connector (pro tip from my old Journeyman: bend the strands of the wire over that you want to keep, cut the remainder, and you can more easily straighten out the strands that you want to use. It's makes for a neater job). The reason for using this wire is that it is super flexible.
I used scrap cartridge heater leads from the connector to the board (I kept it short, about 1-1/2").
https://www.amazon.com/d/Electrical-Wir ... wire&psc=1
While I was at it I replaced the leads to the 1x8 connector that sends out thermistor signal as well as the probe signals. This wire was especially nice for stripping as well as fitting perfectly in terminals that came with the DSE.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GN ... UTF8&psc=1