why no discussion of mechanical solutions to warping?

[carter]

I'm running a V2 which requires me to wait for a hot summer day to hit ABS temps.

I'm not sure how hot it is safe to go on the stock hot end and have not tried >240. current setting is 240C/100C
At these temps I am still having the corners lift off of the bed. While annoying, I can mitigate this by simply pushing down on the brim when the corners are being printed.
I have been experimenting with clamping strips of aluminum across the brim and it seems effective.
I'm wondering if I even need to apply pressure to hold the brim down, or could I get good results by placing aluminum blocks on brim to transfer heat from the plate to the warping edges. Copper maybe better for this as it weighs more and does not radiate heat away as well as Al does.

What about X/Y?
I have been trying to print a tall skinny PLA vape mouthpeice with intricate detail for pipes that cool off the vapor. I'm having a 20% success rate because it keeps getting knocked off the build plate due to X/Y pressure from the nozzle.
Crappy filament is largely to blame - all my 1.75 seems to be ~1.5-1.58, possibly a result of being 9-10 years old and cooking in a dehydrator.
My successful prints have all been a result of me twiddling the extrusion % dial as it prints to avoid any collisions from excess plastic.
While this is probably this ideal solution for a small one-time print, I am rarely concerned with aesthetics and just want functional mechanical prints.

I'm seriously considering making a set of universal warping clamps by cutting aluminum strips with various corners and curves cut out to maximize contact with prints. Has anyone done anything like this?

and what about bracing things in the X/Y direction? I'm imagining placing chops stick x3 with foam pads in rotating clamps that can lightly hold skinny prints when they get 1-2cm off the plate, though I can imagine causing a lot of failed prints by applying them too firmly

What have you done outside of slicer settings to mitigate failed prints from warping/collision?

[geneb]

Try adding z-hop - it should prevent the nozzle from knocking over parts during travel moves.

The original stock hot end (cold section is made from PEEK) really isn't designed for ABS.

That being said, if you're trying to print ABS without an enclosure, you're just asking for problems. Even walking up to the printer to look and then walking away is enough to create a breeze that'll cause the part to warp off the bed.

g.