What adjustments should I make here?

[truenorthtrader]

Hey folks any idea on what I can do to reduce material around holes in prints?
Mine isn't as clean as other similar prints I've seen from the Rostock Max.

Messed with travel speed and retraction and stuff but I still get them.

Specific settings would be awesome, assuming it's not hardware related.
My Recration is 54mm/s retraction speed, 9mm retraction distance ( tried 4-10 ) 150mm/s travel speed ( tried from 80-150 so far )
I use Cura to slice most things as it's much cleaner usually


thank you again in advance!
A

[wonderemporium]

I have been fighting this kind of thing since I got the printer built in December. I have resolved myself to the fact that at least in my case it's the stock arms and hotend. I tried several times to get the stock arms loose enough but it's just too time consuming and I never got them right. I just switched to TrickLaser arms (tricklaser.com) and most of my blobbing and layer jitter is now gone. I'm getting the first good prints and I'm finally excited about the machine.

The remaining blobs and strings appear to be the hotend having terrible ooze problems. The transition zone of the stock hotend is so long that there is no way that I've found to stop it from oozing and blobbing. I've ordered the E3D all metal hotend and anxiously await its arrival. I think that will fix my issues. Software wise I use about the same retract settings as you, 5mm retract at 55mm/sec. I use Kisslicer's wipe feature which seems to help quite a bit for the kinds of things I print.

[truenorthtrader]

Thank you!

Actually I noticed while looking at the video the blobbing mostly occurs before the retraction, so I assume it's in the hot end as I've seen it blob at the end of a section before a retraction and move.

I've seen a few arm mods magnetic etc but the magnetic one's scare me with using JB weld and I've heard some of them breaking off during a print.

I'm considering the tricklaser.com option also I might have to do that since I can't get it any better.

I don't mind doing some sanding but it would save material and time if I didn't have to.
thank you,

[Flateric]

I think you can improve your blobbing a bit but the stocker hot end is a bit messy.

Try lowering your temp a tiny bit and either increasing or decreasing your retract speeds. Too quick and I think it pulls and stretches before pulling the pressure from the tip, too slow and the pressure is never relieved. So it really depends on where you sit now.

And of course I could be totally wrong also. But these are the next steps I would do. Are you running the stock extruder? Does it honk and grind on retracts? If so your trying to drive it too fast. It should be about the same sound on retract as it is on extrude.

If it is honking and grinding, lower your speed, alot, set your accel to something fairly low at first like 1000, set you start speed at like 22. These are firmware settings BTW. In kiss slicer, set your retract speed to like 22 to start. These values may seem low but they give you just enough room to be able to crank up you print speeds during the print without the honking and grinding coming back until you get to really fast speeds.

[Flateric]

Overall it really pretty good however, that is a very challenging print you got there, large as well. Nice!

[daftscience]

The best thing you can do for that, IMHO is to get a new hotend (assuming you're using the seemecnc stock hotend.)That and the trick laser arms have been the two best uprades I've done.

[truenorthtrader]

Thank you Flateric, I should have realized this since most of the blobbing occurs before a retraction mostly it's probably too hot.
I also lowered retraction and will test this all later but I never get any grinding since I adjusted the position of the 608 bearing on the single large gear so it doesn't touch the other 2.

I did run a print over and over a month or so ago to try and find the best temp so I thought it was right at 232C with ABS but already lowered and will try some prints later that just might do it.

Yes daftscience for the price the tricklaser arms kit look like something well worth trying if the temps and lower retraction don't work well enough.

thanks guys for your insight!

[truenorthtrader]

Seems I had the temp and retraction as good as I could.

I lowered retraction to 40 from 56 and temp down only 3 degree's from 232 to 229

Item on right is my original setting, item on left is the lowered setting.
My original looks much much cleaner so looks like I'll try the tricklaser arms as I already checked all hardware, belt tension, arms, screws, everything
thanks!