At wit's end trying to calibrate radius

[heathenx]

So I've probably accumulated hours trying to get my Rostock to print on my entire bed without success. This thing has beaten me. Regarding my towers, I've gotten those pretty nailed down (at least I think I do). My center, X, Y and Z are all equal distance from nozzle to bed. No sweeping arc. What is killing me is in between my Y and Z tower on the farthest reaches. If I were to squirt a 10" diameter circle around my bed, about in the 3 o'clock position, it would fail every time. I just cannot get it "level" everywhere. It's rather frustrating. Do the end stops alone control this? It seems like I've tweaked those a 100 times and just as I make progress I get a setback somewhere. What is the secret? I must be doing something wrong.

I tried to print a simple 8" long by 5" wide rectangle today and I failed miserably. No matter how I rotated it on my plate, some corner would be too far away from the nozzle and wouldn't stick. Like pushing spaghetti. Luckily I have another 3D printer that I can use. Still, I can't help but feel disappointed that I have this super big print envelope and I cannot take advantage of it.

[Polygonhell]

There is a thread about the issue, it's probably a function of some geometry error, either towers not equidistant, not entirely vertical or rotated slightly, or arms of unequal length.

There is a secondary issue where you have to print very much slower if you are printing at the edge of the bed, though this is a fundamental issue with the rostock like designs.

I've printed several 8in + pieces on my V1, so it doesn't affect everyone, it might be worth measuring everything, to make sure it's as square as possible.

[ThatDirectorGuy]

Ok please don't mock me its 3:03 am and my Rostock Max V2 is almost done I am following the instructions to calibrate radius but for the life of me where are the end stop adjustment screws located that I need to adjust? Are they called something else earlier in the manual? Is it just really late and I am crazy? A picture would be awesome or a link to a video on this process. Thanks and I apologize for this question.

[heathenx]

Ha! I have days like that under normal daylight hours.

The ends stop are located at the top of your openbeams, under the top panel. Refer to page 110 of the assembly manual. The endstop adjustment screw is part of the cheapskate assembly. A good picture of that is on page 102.

[nitewatchman]

Look close, when I got my kit the top open beam screw holes were no drilled and there was no place to put the screws. I had to drill and tap them.

Just received three more brackets as spares/project and they were not drilled either.

nitewatchman

[Eaglezsoar]

Look close, when I got my kit the top open beam screw holes were no drilled and there was no place to put the screws. I had to drill and tap them.

Just received three more brackets as spares/project and they were not drilled either.

nitewatchman

That is a bummer, I hope that they have corrected the problem. You might want to send [email protected] an email about that problem.

[ThatDirectorGuy]

LOL I woke up looked at the forum and was enlightened. Now if I could just get the Horizontal Radius right I would be all set. Thank you.

[Josshe]

What is the maximum setting for the radius under the printer shape tab in Repetier for the Rostock Max V2?
Following the manual, it is set for 135mm.
However, that does not allow me to drop an 8" piece on the bed without overhang.
Obviously when I increase that setting to say 160 then the model fits with room to spare.

In Slic3r it 280x280 which is very confusing...

[heathenx]

I've designed another dial indicator mount for my E3D V6 mount. Looks like I'm back in the game again. I fiddled with the end stop screws again yesterday and have changed the horizontal radius in the eeprom to actually dive down a bit on the outer radius in an attempt to get things to stick a little better. Half-arsed but seems to work much better.