Hi, im at the last stage of the build of my Rostock MAX V2.
Clearly i must have misunderstood something when i bough the kit.
I thought i bought a complete kit for building but there is so much extra stuff required to get this kit together.
When youre located in another country than USA, its definitely not so easy to source down alot of the extra stuff...
Question regarding the Hot-end assembly. Its pictured in the build manual with barrel crimp connectors on the resistor pin, but there is none in the kit.
Can i solder up the wires direcly to the resistor leads, or will this get hot enough to actually desolder the wires ?
Can i finish up the rest of my build without the jameco crimping tools mentioned in the start of the manual or is it required to get all the connections done on the PCB later? The crimping tools is not availiable in Norway..
Question regarding building without buying additional stuff
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Polygonhell
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Re: Question regarding building without buying additional st
Don't solder the wires to the Hotend, the solder doesn't melt per-se, but it evaporates overt time and the wire will come loose when it's least convenient. Any crimp that fits will do.
Pololu sell the tool I don't know if they have international shipping. You can at a push get by without it, but it can be extremely frustrating and there is a good chance you'll run out of crimp pins before you have working connectors.
Pololu sell the tool I don't know if they have international shipping. You can at a push get by without it, but it can be extremely frustrating and there is a good chance you'll run out of crimp pins before you have working connectors.
Printer blog http://3dprinterhell.blogspot.com/
Re: Question regarding building without buying additional st
Yeah... Some of the things I had to source for myself left me scratching my head a little, too. The uninsulated barrel connectors, for one. Yes you need them (the solder will melt that close), but you only need two. Based on the the number of screws and various other hardware included, you would think it'd be easy enough to throw those in as well. 
As for the crimping, it isn't necessary on most of the build. There are two connections on the Rambo that will require it, though. One 4 pin for the extruder motor and a 2 pin for the hotend thermistor. I just bought a cheap crimp tool from radio shack... (like $9 no instruction cheap.) it worked... ok.
You should be able to do it without a crimp tool, however, if you can solder very carefully and have a delicate needle nose pliers. Just strip the wire and fit it into the pin as if you were going to crimp it and then apply just enough solder to make it stick to the pin without adding any extra bulk to it (so it can still fit in the hole). Also make sure the little reverse facing tab/barb on the pin (just in front of where you'll solder the wire) is free and bent up slightly. This is what will catch the hole in the plastic housing and prevent the wire from pulling out. Finally use the needle nose to carefully crimp the the tabs around the wire jacket. Work them easily around the wire to give it a roundish shape that will fit in the hole.
Everything else where they suggest putting on quick disconnects (really could have included these too... oh well) I just used these instead. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EZH ... UTF8&psc=1
Precrimped and ready to go. Just make sure you label them properly.
I just did all this yesterday in my build, so It's pretty fresh in mind yet. hahaha Good luck!
As for the crimping, it isn't necessary on most of the build. There are two connections on the Rambo that will require it, though. One 4 pin for the extruder motor and a 2 pin for the hotend thermistor. I just bought a cheap crimp tool from radio shack... (like $9 no instruction cheap.) it worked... ok.
You should be able to do it without a crimp tool, however, if you can solder very carefully and have a delicate needle nose pliers. Just strip the wire and fit it into the pin as if you were going to crimp it and then apply just enough solder to make it stick to the pin without adding any extra bulk to it (so it can still fit in the hole). Also make sure the little reverse facing tab/barb on the pin (just in front of where you'll solder the wire) is free and bent up slightly. This is what will catch the hole in the plastic housing and prevent the wire from pulling out. Finally use the needle nose to carefully crimp the the tabs around the wire jacket. Work them easily around the wire to give it a roundish shape that will fit in the hole.
Everything else where they suggest putting on quick disconnects (really could have included these too... oh well) I just used these instead. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EZH ... UTF8&psc=1
Precrimped and ready to go. Just make sure you label them properly.
I just did all this yesterday in my build, so It's pretty fresh in mind yet. hahaha Good luck!