T Glase - Advice, tips etc :)

[dunginhawk]

So, having some success with Ninjaflex, ive turned my attention to T glase....

Here is my first print with it... I think this ridge up the print is the start and stop of each layer, so we have that to resolve.

[img]http://i1132.photobucket.com/albums/m562/dunginhawk/B07D6CBF-45C9-4B91-9F83-11C73A859C68_zpsbmuwt0j4.jpg[/img]

Now, as you can see at a certain point, all of a sudden the quality turns to garbage... What happened at this point is the speed started varying, like speeding across a spot, then slowing down, then speeding up, slowing down etc...very bizarre . here are a few more pics.

Here are the stats.

[img]http://i1132.photobucket.com/albums/m562/dunginhawk/D6117FF3-78C3-4DF9-A440-FAFF3AD805FC_zpsyzgdlped.jpg[/img]


[img]http://i1132.photobucket.com/albums/m562/dunginhawk/7F925BA8-AC1E-46E5-B998-C8A3296741BF_zpszymyzmem.jpg[/img]

Layer heigh .25
15mm/s speed
240 temp
60 bed
70% fan speed after layer 2
3mm retraction.

[Polygonhell]

Increase the extrusion width, I use 0.60 for a 0.40 nozzle, the filament seems prone to snapping if it's stretched too far.
I also print a LOT cooler than that, closer too 215C, I run a fan from the start, bed temperature 70C.
I print it at about 30mm/s for point of reference.

[dunginhawk]

Thank you, ill give that a go... what do you use for retraction? the 3mm was a guess. i use 5.4mm with abs/pla, but 0 with copper, bronze and ninja.
T glase?

[Polygonhell]

I'm not using the standard Hotend, I currently have a kraken on the printer. The short version is I couldn't run enough retraction to remove stringing.

[dunginhawk]

so i tried again today... same issue. perhaps its the model, but there is that same line running up where each layer starts (where the hot end rises up .2mm to start again).
then a ways later it starts bouncing around from side to side, speeding up for moves etc... well all this just makes it look terrible.
should i try yet another slicer?

[precisionpete]

I was going to suggest try another slicer but I have done that and usually it's futile. Dialing in your settings are key.
Also, my prints using t-glase are with zero retraction and much slower see this post
http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=7095

[dunginhawk]

So no go with kisslicer either..
ill try a new model or something.

[dunginhawk]

so i found out why matter wasnt working right.. i didnt have it set to VASE.. duh.
So its looking much better.. here is a pic... what would you maybe suggest is causing those striations . thanks
[img]http://i1132.photobucket.com/albums/m562/dunginhawk/94350D03-B8A4-4B28-A7EA-9F96AF76681F_zps4i75jaqn.jpg[/img]

[precisionpete]

Have you tried slowing the print way down? That is what solved most of my problems when I was tuning in for T-Glase.
And be careful how slow you go, the system WILL shut down at some point if you go too slow. You can tweak the setting in firmware but I chose to leave it alone. Right at the threshold of too slow.

[dunginhawk]

im trying every setting i can think of.. im running at 5mm / s right now..
trying some extrusion multipliers etc...

[dunginhawk]

precision pete... your print on the other thread looks like there are multiple outside layers... its looks really thick? im doing a single layer perimeter vase, so im sure thats why its brittle.

yours looks really thick.
so here is the latest. as you can see even though i clicked vase, every layer it still does a LITTLE twitch causing that random line all the way up the print.
then all those clear lines, then cloudy lines.. back and forth.. its really troubling.
is clear PLA or ABS similar enough to throw this stuff in the trash? lol

[img]http://i1132.photobucket.com/albums/m562/dunginhawk/2D1F199C-6BF7-4565-826D-C65595375B85_zpsagc9xson.jpg[/img]

[precisionpete]

My print was only a single layer with zero infill and NO bottom so it's basically only the shell.
I did not use vase.

Maybe just an anomaly that I got lucky the stuff is finicky. Right now I can't seem to print with PLA but that is because of mechanical issues which are being cleaned up.

I remember I tweaked the settings by raising temp by 5 deg increments and slowed down to the point where the machine drew the outside brim and when it started to draw the part it killed the machine because of how slow I had it set.

I know it looked thick but it's a fragile part. Look don't touch!

As far as material I remember when I was having problems the guys at matterhackers talking about MadeSolid Translucent Clear PET+ Filament.
It's not clear but then T-Glase isn't unless you treat it. I did not try it.

Good luck
Pete

[dunginhawk]

i just love the look of tglase, so much.. i want it to work... i just really dont know that i ever will im a sad panda haha