Hey,
I really don't know what to do anymore.
My new E3D hotend produces strings all over the place.
I dropped my temperature (180°), upped my retraction(10 mm I know that's a lot), upped my retraction speed (130 mm/s) and switched filament.
The attached picture shows you the best result I could get to.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/sg90y9pwgqui1 ... 7.jpg?dl=0
Any ideas on how to improve that?
E3D v6 stringing problem
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Re: E3D v6 stringing problem
You're probably doing the opposite of what that particular hot end needs. E3D recommends no more than 2mm retraction, even on a Bowden setup. What made a big difference for me was actually slowing down the retraction. I'm at 10 mm/s, some run a little faster than that.
Re: E3D v6 stringing problem
Firstly, you don't mention what filament you are using. I'm guessing based on the temp. that it is PLA but please confirm.
NEVER use that much retraction on an air cooled metal hot end. It is a recipe for a complete block-up. 1-2 mm should be fine for the V6. Next, 130mm/s retraction is also an issue. You are reacting so fast that you are simply "snapping off" the bit of molten filament in the nozzle. PLA melt is thixotropic. Slow down to 15-20 mm/s.
Also use a Z lift of 1mm. That can be done fast.
Finally, you need to determine the length of the nozzle bore. If it is over .5mm you will get this sort of stringing. I just commissioned a Kossel250 with a new v6 and had a similar very fine cob web stringing like that with filament I know prints perfectly on my other printers. I measured the nozzle bore and it was 1.11mm long. I simply shortened the bore with a 2mm drill by hand (NO DRILL) - you can read all about it in the loooonnnngggg thread I contributed to last year. This hot end now no longer strings at all (nor do any of my other V5s and V6s with shortened bores).
NEVER use that much retraction on an air cooled metal hot end. It is a recipe for a complete block-up. 1-2 mm should be fine for the V6. Next, 130mm/s retraction is also an issue. You are reacting so fast that you are simply "snapping off" the bit of molten filament in the nozzle. PLA melt is thixotropic. Slow down to 15-20 mm/s.
Also use a Z lift of 1mm. That can be done fast.
Finally, you need to determine the length of the nozzle bore. If it is over .5mm you will get this sort of stringing. I just commissioned a Kossel250 with a new v6 and had a similar very fine cob web stringing like that with filament I know prints perfectly on my other printers. I measured the nozzle bore and it was 1.11mm long. I simply shortened the bore with a 2mm drill by hand (NO DRILL) - you can read all about it in the loooonnnngggg thread I contributed to last year. This hot end now no longer strings at all (nor do any of my other V5s and V6s with shortened bores).
Sublime Layers - my blog on Musings and Experiments in 3D Printing Technology and Art
Start Here:
A Strategy for Successful (and Great) Prints
Strategies for Resolving Print Artifacts
The Eclectic Angler
Re: E3D v6 stringing problem
Here's the thread with all the details: http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php ... &start=650
Sublime Layers - my blog on Musings and Experiments in 3D Printing Technology and Art
Start Here:
A Strategy for Successful (and Great) Prints
Strategies for Resolving Print Artifacts
The Eclectic Angler
Re: E3D v6 stringing problem
Thanks for the replies!
I know that my settings were a bit excessive - I will run some tests with your settings.
As far as the whole nozzle drilling is concerned I will read up on that tomorrow ( that's a lot of text
)
I really appreciate the input!
I know that my settings were a bit excessive - I will run some tests with your settings.
As far as the whole nozzle drilling is concerned I will read up on that tomorrow ( that's a lot of text

I really appreciate the input!