
I took the opportunity to use that fancy new crimping tool with some of the crimp tubes I'd bought a couple of years ago when I was working on the TAZ hot end. As most of you know, you can't solder the heating resistors - the solder will evaporate over time and you'll get an intermittent or failed connection.
Here's what the J-Head's single heating resistor looks like crimped out: You cover those crimps with a little bit of Kapton and you're good to go!
Here's how the thermistor came out, same process. The wires are 24ga and that big thing in the top of the photo is a .7mm Mechanical Pencil. Next, the resistor and thermistor get taped in place with a single wrap of Kapton. The Kapton holds things in place until the silicone heat wrap is done. Unlike the SeeMeCNC hot end, the resistor the J-Head uses leaves little room for movement, so the RTV isn't required to protect it.
Next, the wrap: The silicone wrap helps insulate the heater block from the ambient air and also provides additional force to hold the thermistor in place. The silicone wrap should be itself wrapped with a one or two layers of Kapton. If it's not there, the silicone rap can split and fall off the hot end.
Now the 4 pin latching connector gets added: Finally, the whole thing gets installed into one of travelphotog's J-Head adapters: All that's missing is the push-fit connector at the top.

Note that for those using this J-Head, the thermistor is a Semitec 104GT-2 and you'll need to tweak your thermistor table selection accordingly.
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