Extruder Heat Issue

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exos
Plasticator
Posts: 11
Joined: Thu Mar 17, 2016 10:45 pm

Extruder Heat Issue

Post by exos »

Hello all,

I have been printing on my max V2 through mattercontroller. I will preheat my bed and nozzle before the print and they will maintain typically +- 1 degree of the desired temperate. However, once I click print, the bed will be perfect but the nozzle will struggle to maintain the appropriate temperature... although it could a moment before during the preheat. Typically I will preheat the nozzle to 229. It will remain steady there. Once I click print it will attemp to correct back to 229 but as it does so it will bounce between 222-225 for 10-15 minutes. Ideas?

EDIT: Extruder is unable to reach 228....
bob64
Printmaster!
Posts: 89
Joined: Sun Jul 20, 2014 8:45 pm

Re: Extruder Heat Issue

Post by bob64 »

Is your layer fan blowing on your hotend?
Rostock Max V2 with mods:
E3d v6 with 713maker mount & e3d titan extruder
Tricklaser CF arms, heat spreader, tricktrucks, fly-n-strude, metal carriage & effector
Duet v.8.5.0
24v MeanWell 750w PS & Cydom D1D40 SSR in parallel with stock 12v PS
exos
Plasticator
Posts: 11
Joined: Thu Mar 17, 2016 10:45 pm

Re: Extruder Heat Issue

Post by exos »

Don't have the layer fan installed yet, just the peek fan. I attempted to lower the print temperature to what it was peaking at... unfortunately, whenever I set a temperature it seems to hang out 3-5 degrees below the set temperature. I also moved the extr 1 pid max from 205 to 215 with not much change. I have been told by the guys at SeeMeCNC that the PID Autotune is no longer a player due to firmware updates, otherwise that would be my go to solution for this....
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Eaglezsoar
ULTIMATE 3D JEDI
Posts: 7159
Joined: Sun Apr 01, 2012 5:26 pm

Re: Extruder Heat Issue

Post by Eaglezsoar »

See if you can get a ceramic heater cartridge to replace the prehistoric resistors.
There are hundreds of them on Ebay or Amazon or many 3D printer stores.
You would want a 12V at 30 or 40 watts.
Get rid of the resistors by turning everything off and unplugging the printer from the wall.
Remove the hotend then remove the resistors.
Insert the ceramic heater into one of the holes of the hotend where one of the resistors went
then you can connect the red wires to the wires that used to feed the resistors, you can solder the
old resistor wires to the red wires from the ceramic heater or use a crimp tube to connect them but
I recommend placing a piece of heat shrink tubing over the wires before connecting so that you can
heat shrink the tubing in place over the connections when they are finished.
The empty hole on the hotend that used to hold a resistor can stay empty. Please ask if you have
a question about any of this.
“ Do Not Regret Growing Older. It is a Privilege Denied to Many. ”
exos
Plasticator
Posts: 11
Joined: Thu Mar 17, 2016 10:45 pm

Re: Extruder Heat Issue

Post by exos »

Thanks for the reply! That is on my list of future upgrades, however I was able to clear my issue up my setting my extrn1 PID to 255 and re-autotuned the PID. Next step... Solving curling issues...
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