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Yes,Eaglezsoar wrote:Does this mean that you will be creating another one with the holes offset to fit the Yellow Jacket?
Might want to start a different thread for this. But just a thought, do you have the PTFE tube going down all the way to the nozzle inside? That's the only thing that I can think of that would cause a clog like that every time.SoCalSteve wrote:i hope you dont mind me asking this here, but has anyone had issues with filament on the E3D? Every time I finish a print I have to disassemble the hot end and remove all the plastic otherwise I cant get it to print again. At first I thought this was a heat issue, but i cranked the heat up to 240 and didnt get any better results. using Pro PLA by the way.
A lot of people have issues getting quality pla prints with an e3d. I would just switch back to j-head for the rest of your pla, and then switch to a better material (just about anything else). And 240 is ridiculously hot for pla, I print my abs at 235.SoCalSteve wrote:i hope you dont mind me asking this here, but has anyone had issues with filament on the E3D? Every time I finish a print I have to disassemble the hot end and remove all the plastic otherwise I cant get it to print again. At first I thought this was a heat issue, but i cranked the heat up to 240 and didnt get any better results. using Pro PLA by the way.
I print PLA all day long with my E3D v6, no problems.eatoutmikey wrote:A lot of people have issues getting quality pla prints with an e3d. I would just switch back to j-head for the rest of your pla, and then switch to a better material (just about anything else). And 240 is ridiculously hot for pla, I print my abs at 235.SoCalSteve wrote:i hope you dont mind me asking this here, but has anyone had issues with filament on the E3D? Every time I finish a print I have to disassemble the hot end and remove all the plastic otherwise I cant get it to print again. At first I thought this was a heat issue, but i cranked the heat up to 240 and didnt get any better results. using Pro PLA by the way.
I haven't personally tried pla with mine because I hate the stuff(left a 20hr print in my car this summer for a couple hours and it was ruinedBONE wrote: I print PLA all day long with my E3D v6, no problems.
) but have heard a bunch of horror stories in various other threads, wonder if this was fixed with the new bowden version?BONE wrote:Here's my latest one. Going to print tomorrow or this weekend and try it out. The model is rough and I just hacked it together to get a prototype made and fit up all the parts. I plan on cleaning up the fillets on top of fillets and making the styling smoother at a later date. Dimensions are on the tight side, so some filing and fitting up of components may be needed.
On the outside.
- Rod holes are 2.80mm, so drilling and reaming needs to be done ensure a proper fit and clean out rough edges. Suggested not to print support inside those holes.
- 37mm dimension between flat to maintain the distance needed for stock joints or Trick Lasers.
- 30mm layer fan mounts to the outside.
- Use the Yellow Jacket E3D v6 mount for holding the hotend in place. Yellow Jacket Board can sit on top of the mount. On the inside:
- Mount the layer fan duct to the inside using the screws that mount the fan. (Duct yet to be designed or design your own)
- Use the 3 holes on the bottom inside to mount the Trick Laser LED ring. Un-solder the wires and flip them to the inside for a cleaner look.
Hey Dirk,critical_limit wrote: Hi,
is it possible that you share a solidworks file (or step, or iges) ?
Want to mod your effector to use with tricklaser arms. And in your Version the arms hitting the solid around the axles when you are trying to print a large circle. So I have to flaten it a little bit.
Solidworks would be nice due to I´m on Solidworks. But all other work as well....
Thanx
Dirk
Actually I'm not at home due to work. Will be back in 12 days, than I can post some pics. Just tought that I can do some changes while I'm not at home and printing it when back to my printer.BONE wrote:Hey Dirk,critical_limit wrote: Hi,
is it possible that you share a solidworks file (or step, or iges) ?
Want to mod your effector to use with tricklaser arms. And in your Version the arms hitting the solid around the axles when you are trying to print a large circle. So I have to flaten it a little bit.
Solidworks would be nice due to I´m on Solidworks. But all other work as well....
Thanx
Dirk
Awesome to see that someone else is using my design. Can you post pics of the location where the TL arms are hitting? I uploaded a couple models also, which one are you using? I'll upload a model soon.
I print mine out of PLA and I haven't had any issues. There's enough clearance between the heater block and the platform where the heat doesn't affect the platform as far as I can tell. I have 4.5 days of printing on the current platform.predawnsky wrote:do you guys think t-glass would be ok for the mount
im guessing you meant doesntBONE wrote:I print mine out of PLA and I haven't had any issues. There's enough clearance between the heater block and the platform where the heat does affect the platform as far as I can tell. I have 4.5 days of printing on the current platform.predawnsky wrote:do you guys think t-glass would be ok for the mount
Yes, that is what I meant. I haven't printed with T-glase, but it should be fine. Others have used ABS.predawnsky wrote:im guessing you meant doesntBONE wrote:I print mine out of PLA and I haven't had any issues. There's enough clearance between the heater block and the platform where the heat does affect the platform as far as I can tell. I have 4.5 days of printing on the current platform.predawnsky wrote:do you guys think t-glass would be ok for the mount
and thanks im printing it out of abs
No problem glad I could help.- There is a printable spacer that was part of that original design we all used instead of washers to hold it in place, look at the pics in the first couple of pages. If you want i'll post a separate file with just that.Brendon wrote: Thanks to the original files posted by eatoutmikey, we were able to modify it just a bit to fit our needs. We're printing Bridge Nylon with an E3D v6. We modified eatoutmikey's original file to include screw mounts on the bottom for TrickLaser's light ring, notched out a bit more space for the blue fan mount on the E3D v6, dropped in some washers on top to hold the hot end in place, and also put in a couple set screw holes along the effector axles since they were never quite as tight as with the injection molded stock effector. Thanks eatoutmikey! It's working great.
. If someone can explain and give me some rough dimensions so I can model it for test fit and rendering pics in SW.Thanks for the links, while that explains what it is....... there are no dimensions given. A step file would be best if someone can find one but at the very least, outside dimensions and mounting screw locations are needed. Same with led.... what is the diameter between the screws? (i'm assuming there are 3 so you cant just measure screw to screw)Eaglezsoar wrote:The yellow jacket is here: http://makerhive.proboards.com/thread/6 ... tock-orian
and here: http://www.themakerhive.com/shop/viewit ... oductid=18
That would be great. Thanks!eatoutmikey wrote: There is a printable spacer that was part of that original design we all used instead of washers to hold it in place, look at the pics in the first couple of pages. If you want i'll post a separate file with just that.
Here you go. Just use the same settings you used for the platform, and it should pop in with a little encouragement.Brendon wrote:That would be great. Thanks!eatoutmikey wrote: There is a printable spacer that was part of that original design we all used instead of washers to hold it in place, look at the pics in the first couple of pages. If you want i'll post a separate file with just that.