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Water cooling seems like a great idea. You could also extend the system to the extruder steppers in the future, which would be especially useful with a heated enclosure I'd assume. This is quite inspirational and I can't wait to see how you progress with the implementation, I may want to follow your lead in the future.

Water cooling is nothing new. The commercial Kraken hot end introduced me to it. I have retrofitted most of my E3D V5 and V6 hot ends to water cooling. The challenge with Diamond is connecting the 3 water jackets efficiently. But I have that sorted out now.

mhackney, would you be so kind to sell some water cooling kits?

I have no idea. I don't know know how much they'll cost to manufacture. I run a business selling machined (and printed) fly fishing reels and don't even have enough time to devote to that. So basically, I can't make these to sell without making a comparable profit, otherwise I'm losing time and money! I also have a ridiculous travel schedule for the next 6 weeks so I won't have much time.

mhackney wrote:I have no idea. I don't know know how much they'll cost to manufacture. I run a business selling machined (and printed) fly fishing reels and don't even have enough time to devote to that. So basically, I can't make these to sell without making a comparable profit, otherwise I'm losing time and money! I also have a ridiculous travel schedule for the next 6 weeks so I won't have much time.

Could you perhaps over the next 6 months or so work into your blog a piece on your design and materials (as well as any gotchas you found while learning how to build them) for your water-cooling systems would not have to be dimensioned shop white prints just sketches with important dimensions for things like spacings.

That I can do while I travel - after I have it working that is. I don't mind posting the CAD too.

I think you mentioned running them in series, do you foresee any problems with what I'd assume to be a difference in heat transfer one to the next as the coolant warms? or is it marginal?

I'm planning on making some waterblocks myself as well, although mine won't be more compact, and will need a water jacket off Aliexpress. But it's an interesting bit of work to design and program the things, and I'm currently allowed to play with the machines in the lab a good bit (Mostly mills right now, as we're a lathe down and I'm not currently actually assigned lathe work, but others are). If I end up getting a small CNC lathe (I may have inherited one recently, it's hard to know what tools my uncle had, and I don't wish to bother his widow until she's ready, and then I mostly want to help her deal with getting the other, larger manual tools to good homes) I may consider re-writing the program for it later (I make extensive use of Haas canned cycles when I can, to save time and get familiar with them, and many controllers don't have them, or have all of them if they have some) and making some extra's for people I know, or who ask nicely for about material cost (Although I think I would have to get E3D's permission, as their design is CC-BY-NC-SA) It wouldn't be a high-volume run, but I can probably do things like shop prints (While autocad seems to be not so great at 3D design, it excels at annotated prints (yay student license)) and fairly generic G code for people with access to CNC tools.

PS: I think I used too many parenthesis in the above post. Perhaps I should go to Pratchett style footnotes.

Based on my experience with the Kraken and 4 hotends, the water temp barely elevates at the reservoir volume and flow rate I use. I don't expect any problems at all.

Finally got it all working... Here'a my first two successful prints with the diamond... One is in PLA the other is in Ninjaflex...

Those look really nice! A job well done.

Yeah, I was extremely pleased with the fact that ninjaflex printed without issue... I never expected NF to work well with a bowden setup... But after I got PLA to work, I decided I might as well try NF just to make sure... But then, on the first try, it actually worked which really made me happy.

So I finally got it all figured out... Even color mixing... Here's a video of me explaining everything I have done so far...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3Z_21b3 ... e=youtu.be





Here's a few pics of somethings I designed and printed for the diamond

Swell! I need to remember myself to watch the video later today...
What firmware did you use, on what kind of board?

I used the Rambo... And Updated the firmware to Repetier 0.92 to utilize the new color mixing feature.

Amazing work JJP, well done and thanks for sharing your use of Polycarbonate filament to print your special high temp tolerant effector parts and mount. fascinating.

You're welcome... Yeah PolyCarb has become my go to for functioning/mechanical parts... PLA is an absolutely useless plastic... ABS is alright but has a relatively low transition temperature and is a little too rigid for its own good (will crack or snap before bending)... PolyCarb is the only filament that will work on a basic printer (other than nylon) that has very good engineering properties... I'd trust printed PolyCarb parts in real mechanical applications that experience real torques, thermodynamics, and forces... PET is another good one if you want a good mix of strength+elasticity... PEEK is also becoming more popular, but I've never worked with it first hand, but you can get it to print with right under 300C.

Awesome job!! Those look great.

Quick question, say I want to print a single color and have the Diamond hotted in my effector is there going to be any back flow issues if I don't have the other two extruders loaded up?

DerStig wrote:Quick question, say I want to print a single color and have the Diamond hotted in my effector is there going to be any back flow issues if I don't have the other two extruders loaded up?

I did what Polygonhell mentioned. ......... Cut and inserted filament and tubing into the two non-used heat sinks. That way you prevent hot ABS back flow.

Here is the link to what I described above. (http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php ... 100#p85485)

hello,

I bought a diamond hotend on eBay but it's impossible for me to obtain more than 150°C with fan ON.
The resistor is connected on 12V power supply, I tested the resistor : 4 ohms OK .
I tried with 17V power supply and it's possible to obtaint more than 220°C.

Do you a same problem ?
I see you have used 24V power supply, You uses this voltage on resistor of hotend ?

Thank

First question, are you sure that it's a genuine Diamond hotend? I tend to distrust anything from Ebay, especially hotends.

Secondly, have you adjusted the PID drive max for E1?

Thirdly, Is it properly assembled, with the insulating sheet keeping the fan from blowing on the brass portion?

Fourthly, Is your thermistor properly mounted and in good contact with the block?

Hi,

A genuine, not sure chinesse copy it's more possible.

I don't change the E1 pid, possible way.

For the mounting, I have remount all this hotend with a good attention an thermal coupling, the Heather. Actually i use demaker-up circle cotton an thermal isolation.

(Excuse I'm french on travel works, only smartphone )

JJPowelly wrote:So I finally got it all figured out... Even color mixing... Here's a video of me explaining everything I have done so far...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3Z_21b3 ... e=youtu.be





Here's a few pics of somethings I designed and printed for the diamond

DSCN1281.JPG

DSCN1288.JPG

DSCN1271.JPG

that's pretty awesome. Not including designing mounts, how long did it take you do get the diamond hotend dialed in like that? I think it would take me a lifetime. I also love the magnet idea, and if you haven't patented it, I would strongly consider it. If you don't, it's only a of time before Makerbot sees your video and files a petent of their own.