Printing with Line trimmer

[jdurand]

That's the stuff. Depending on what you're printing you might need to lightly sand it to take the surface shine off. But, try with is "natural".

If you have any electronics hobby stores around, you could look at "single sided copper clad" that's used to make PC boards. The copper on one side would help spread heat but may make it warp when hot. If you can get a piece cheap it's worth a try. Note that not all PC boards are G10/FR-4, some are phenolic. No idea how that would work as a base.

[Renha]

thank you!

[cope413]

Cope, I have seen many of your prints in this thread and they look great. I tried your recommended settings with the Scotch Permanent Glue Stick, Extruder temp starts at 265 first layer, then to 260, bed starts at 80 first layer, then to 75 but then no luck. I have tried bed temperatures ranging from 60 to 90 with no better luck, I also tried hairspray, Elmer’s Purple Glue Stick and Elmer’s Extreme Glue Stick with no better results. I have been wiping the glass down with Isopropyl Alcohol between each print and applying two thick layers of glue stick at 0 and 90 degrees, allowing it to dry completely between layers of glue. The picture of your print breaking the build plate in the first page because of the amazing bed adhesion has not been a problem I am having

I have calibrated my machine and the first layer looks very good with a thick solid layer in contact with the glass. I have tried additional extrusion for a nicer thicker first layer without any changes in results. I have also tried a raft and reducing the speed (multiple prints and trials) with the same corner pealing results. I have not tried cooling but have not found anything in this thread that would recommend that. I baked the trim line for about 6 hours at 175 and it seems to print very cleanly. If more drying time is needed I would be glad to do that. I have been following this thread (“A Strategy for Successful (and Great) Prints” - http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=7361 by mhackney) which has helped me become a more focused and organized printer. But sadly it hasn’t helped me print this awesome filament any better. Sorry for the long post but would really appreciate some help or recommendations on things that I could try to do to get some nice nylon prints. Thanks!

Alrighty...

1) 6 hours at 175 should be enough to dry the filament, but it's possible that there's still some moisture. If your filament is wet at all, you'll most certainly have adhesion issues. Assuming your filament is dry...

2) Nylon is like ABS on steroids when it comes to warping. Part thickness, wall thickness, and infill % play a big role in print success. A bunch of solid bottom layers coupled with sparse infill is recipe for warping. A bunch of perimeters with sparse infill will also likely warp. The trimmer line is really strong, so use as few solid layers, as few perimeters, and as little infill as possible. If you are designing the part, try to treat it like an injection molded part and keep a uniform thickness wherever possible.

3) I had lots of success with the Scotch Permanent glue stick, but we have since switched to Elmer's Craft Bond Extra Strength
http://www.amazon.com/Elmers-Craft-Extr ... B0019CYW8Y
I really didn't have many issues with the Scotch sticks, but this stuff has a noticeably stronger bond. Apply it to a cool glass plate, bring it to temp. Goes on blue. White when it's dry. Don't be stingy either - give it a couple good passes. You want a nice layer on the glass.
Any part that's <100mm in diameter is at 70C. I bump it up to 75 if it's bigger than that because my bed is 5-10 hotter in the center

4) It's been a while since I've messed with any settings, but I've printed at 255C for the past 10-15lbs. It may be that 260-265 is just a tad too hot.
De-lam is really not an issue with nylon. If it's extruding and adhering to itself, it's hot enough.


If you would like, you can send me the STL you're having issues with and I can try to print it with trimmer line and see what happens.

Hope that helps.

2 jobs is a real time suck, so please don't hesitate to email me if I'm not responding on the forums
[email protected]

Cheers

[Renha]

Have tried TL on 10 mm garolite sheet.
Bed was 90 (I have wanted to try 60 but forgot to change it), hotend was 260.

There almost was no adhesion! Even skirt has been untached.

Then I've tried some sanding, and i've got almost same adhesion as i have with ABS on PEI (which was very good).

But, because of lot more warp strength, that was not enough at all, warped as hell.

[Renha]

Lot more sanding, using brim, thicker layers, 60 bed, 255 hotend - much better results! Little warping is here, but just a little

[Toysrme]

I also use this printer line. Get it off Amazon from Maxpower.

Works amazing, but is very wet. Standard procedure for drying hydroscopic items should be used.
(Bake in an oven for a very long time) It comes on a nice big spool and is not tangled. Be careful about unwinding, the sides of the spool are not large flanges like 3D printer spools.
I use a 3/8" dowel to hold it up (Offset holes drilled high into the stock mount. The angle keeps spools from sliding off & the dowel is less friction than the stock square edged parts. No idea why they dont use this method stock?)

It's practically the cheapest thing you can regularly print with. 3lbs of nylon for $22usd and free shipping if you order at least two of them.



i get it to stick on my v2 with purple glue stick at 60-70c just fine. dangerously so at times, so what i do now is treat it like ABS. i have kapton tape across my glass with gluestick on that. ABS & PVA have tenacious grip. if i feel like its strong enough to crack the glass i simply remove the kapton tape from the glass

[Generic Default]

After I dry my nylon, I keep in in a big food container tub with desiccant. The only way air can get in is through a small hole in the side that the filament is fed out of. I plan on plugging this hole with a PTC, then keeping the nylon airtight in flexible tubing all the way to the hotend nozzle. Right now it is exposed until it gets through the extruder, so I get a few layers of white bubbly nylon every time I print something after leaving the filament out for more than a couple of days.


By the way, the blue trimmer line is most likely virgin nylon 6, not nylon 6,6. There are actually a bunch of different types of nylons and they all have different properties.

Nylon 6,6 is stronger, stiffer and melts at ~260 C
Nylon 6 is impact resistant and flexible and melts at ~220 C

Other types of nylon like nylon 12 melt at even lower temperatures, but they absorb less water and shrink less.

I recommend blue trimmer line nylon for small mechanical parts. This stuff is so wear resistant compared to everything else!