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IMBoring25 wrote:RepRapPro is no longer a going concern. They were half the team that developed the Duet, the other half being Think3DPrint3D. That is your likely source for ongoing technical support.

Thank you, since my last message, I have been in touch with Roland at Think3DPrint3D.

I've been traveling this week and it was difficult to post here. But now that you are at this spot, have you tried swapping the X, Y and Z stepper connectors on the Duet to see if the problem stays with the Y axis dropping down or if it moves to the stepper/tower now connected to Y?

Also, can you post your homedelta.g file please. Homing behavior is defined in it.

I did try switching the X and y axis and the behavior stayed the same.

Here is the homing file.

Thanks.
...........

; Homing file for RepRapFirmware on RoStock
G91 ; use relative positioning
;******* Change F250 in the following line to F2500 when you are finished commissioning
;******* Change 320 in the following to a higher value if your Dealta has taller towers
G1 S1 X320 Y320 Z320 F2500 ; move all carriages up 320mm, stopping at the endstops
G1 S2 X-3 Y-3 Z-3 ; move all carriages down 3mm
G1 S1 X6 Y6 Z6 F250 ; move carriages slowly up 6mm, stopping at the endstops
G1 Z-5 F2000 ; down a few mm so that we can centre the head
G90 ; back to absolute positioning
G1 X0 Y0 F2000 ; centre the head and set a reasonable feed rate

Ok, so swapping the connectors and the new stepper connected to the Y connector on Duet went down. The problem follows the board.

The homing file looks fine too. It does seem that you might have a defective board. Roland is a good guy so I'm sure he'll help you get to the bottom of it.

Thanks for your help. One good thing about the struggles is that I have learned a tremendous amount. Much to learn yet.

3D-Print wrote:Thanks for your help. One good thing about the struggles is that I have learned a tremendous amount. Much to learn yet.

Michael is extremely good at helping people even though he is time limited. As far as your comment about much to learn, I have been doing this for
many years and I feel like I have only touched the surface of the knowledge I need to know. The 3D printing world is vast because of the different
hardware, firmware, control software etc and it can boggle the mind, I have tried to limit myself to the Delta printing world and even it seems to
change every day. At least we won't become bored!

3D-Print wrote:

IMBoring25 wrote:I'm not sure what arguments and/or permissions that shell script might need. The instructions I've been using to flash mine came from the RepRapPro site, where they call bossac directly, the Mac command being:

Code: Select all

/Applications/Arduino.app/Contents/Resources/Java/hardware/tools/bossac -e -w -v -b RepRapFirmware-XXX-DD-MM-YYYY.bin

The arguments are -e[rase], -w[rite], -v[erify], -b[oot] and the path to the firmware image you want to flash.

Interesting that the "Java/......" Folder and subfolder is not present on my computer. Not sure if this is why I was having in consistent problems.

I just finished setting up my Duet using Arduino version 1.6.1 on OSX from https://www.arduino.cc/en/Main/OldSoftwareReleases and it turns out the file in that version is at rather than the path above (no "Resources" sub).

Also, make sure you have 1.6.1 - newer versions don't have bossac at all.

Figured this might be helpful to someone down the line.

does anyone know this?

can i use 2 different powerlines of my ATX PSU for the Duet and the Duex?
the PSU has 4 x 12V/23A and i would like to split the load.

or do you think a PSU with 1 x 12V/60A is necessary/recommended? (i dont want to use a 24v)

i could find any answer to that in the net and i would be very grateful for one

@lordgort: not sure why you don't see the Resources folder in the path. Here is a screenshot of the path from a fresh download of Arduino:
You might send an email to Think3DPrint3D about your Duex question.

I just installed the FSRs using mhackney's excellent mounts.

The Rostock MAX V2 screws were just a little too long so they protruded past the plunger, making the included silicone pads unworkable.

I didn't have any rubber washers or shorter screws lying around BUUUT I do have 3D printers and some NinjaFLEX filament so I made these:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1430233

Maybe they will be useful to someone.

Thanks for the mounts and the detailed instructions. It works great!

I love the Ninjaflex pads, great job.

lordgort wrote:does anyone know this?

can i use 2 different powerlines of my ATX PSU for the Duet and the Duex?
the PSU has 4 x 12V/23A and i would like to split the load.

or do you think a PSU with 1 x 12V/60A is necessary/recommended? (i dont want to use a 24v)

i could find any answer to that in the net and i would be very grateful for one

I'm planning to upgrade my ATX power supply to a 725W. Since I've never had an issue with my heated bed taking forever to heatup, I see no reason to go to a 24v power supply. But I will be running additional stepper motors, lights, camera, etc. So I wanted a power supply that will not be taxed by the additional load. I plan to follow the directions starting on pg. 42 of the Rostock instruction manual (V3) to help me "split" the load. I plan to populate most of the load to the Duet board, but also giving the Duex a line or 2. The Duex (in my configuration) will not be driving a heated anything, and only requires some power for control and driving the extruders. Most of the heavy power consumption will be done by the Duet board.

I hope that helps.

Answer from think3dprint:

Hi Gerhard

If the 4 rails on your PSU are independent of each other and you are not supposed to connect them together then I think it would be wiser to use the big single rail PSU instead. That way you can be sure there is no risk of voltage differences between the Duet and Duex4.

...

so i need a PSU with one Rail (sorry i wrote line... translation is hard sometimes ^^)

With the Duet, I have been looking for a way to calibrate the print bed and hot end. I find that the bed is on or off and thus varies by 6-9 degrees C. How do we calibrate the bed to not fluctuate. With the Rambo we did the PID autotune to set the HotEnd and Print Bed for stable temperatures.

As of yet, I have not found where to make this type of adjustment for the Duet.

Thanks!!

So I found this on the RepRap website (http://reprap.org/wiki/Configuring_RepR ... or_section) which details PID settings and details of the M301 command. Not sure exactly how to set this or if I need/should set this......

Reading....... Reading!!!!

M301 H1 P10 I0.10 D100 T0.50 S1.0 ; PID settings for extruder 0
M301 H2 P10 I0.10 D100 T0.50 S1.0 ; PID settings for extruder 1

The M301 commands set the PID parameters for each heater channel. P, I and D are the usual PID parameters. A negative P value means use bang-bang control for that channel (which is the default for the bed). W is the maximum value of the I accumulator (0 to 255). B is the temperature band within which PID is used, for example if B is 30 then the heater will be full on or off until it is within 30C of the set temperature. T is the approximate additional PWM value (on a scale of 0 to 255) needed per 1C of additional temperature, used to pre-set the I accumulator when switching to PID. Finally, the PID output can be scaled by the S term. This allows you to adapt to a different heater power or supply voltage without having to change all of P, I, D and T.

Ok so I found this on the RepRapWiki G-code site.

RepRapFirmware (v1.09 onwards)
H: Is the heater number, and is compulsory. H0 is the bed, H1 is the first hot end, H2 the second etc.
P: Interprets a negative P term as indicating that bang-bang control should be used instead of PID (not recommended for the hot end, but OK for the bed heater).
I: Integral value
D: Derivative value
T: Is the approximate additional PWM (on a scale of 0 to 255) needed to maintain temperature, per degree C above room temperature. Used to preset the I-accumulator when switching from heater fully on/off to PID.
S: PWM scaling factor, to allow for variation in heater power and supply voltage. Is designed to allow a correction to be made for a change in heater power and/or power supply voltage without having to change all the other parameters. For example, an S factor of 0.8 means that the final output of the PID controller should be scaled to 0.8 times the standard value, which would compensate for a heater that is 25% more powerful than the standard one or a supply voltage that is 12.5% higher than standard.
W: Wind-up. Sets the maximum value of I-term, must be high enough to reach 245C for ABS printing.
B: PID Band. Errors larger than this cause heater to be on or off.

An example using all of these would be:
M301 H1 P20 I0.5 D100 T0.4 S1 W180 B30

M303: Run PID tuning is not supported by RepRapFirmware. Is the way to set the PID by trial and error manually as detailed (http://reprap.org/wiki/PID_Tuning)?

For manual adjustments:
if it overshoots a lot and oscillates, either the integral gain needs to be increased or all gains should be reduced
Too much overshoot? Increase D, decrease P.
Response too damped? Increase P.
Ramps up quickly to a value below target temperature (0-160 fast) and then slows down as it approaches target (160-170 slow, 170-180 really slow, etc) temperature? Try increasing the I constant.

As well, where should this M301 g-code be inserted into the config.g? Is there a specific area/region or do you trend to follow the number sequence of a g-code top-to-bottom within the config.g?

Thanks,

Dan

David Crocker's blog on commissioning Duet has a good overview on calibrating and tuning the heaters. He uses 2 resistors to set the low and high end to known values. I know that work is going on to implement PID. I spent less than 5 minutes configuring my system and haven't touched it since. I think a lot of people overthink PID tuning. In the old days, we set the temps manually with a potentiometer! It worked fine and was relatively quick. My advice is to start with a reasonable set of values (which you can get from users with similar setups) and print. If you find it takes too long to heat up, over shoots significantly or oscillates then you can tweak. I use bang-bang on my heated bed. With an 1/8" aluminum dissipator, glass and PEI, there is a lot of mass so wild temp fluctuations just don't occur.

There is no position requirements for G or M codes in config.g UNLESS you insert duplicate codes, in which case, the latter one will override the first one. I tend to group my codes together. There is a clear section for Tool configuration, that's where I'd put it.

Awesome and I did read his blog but as you mention felt like I had to do PID calibration. I will Set it up as mentioned.

Thank you!

So I spent some time trying different settings in regard to the PID since without the following my print bed varied from 96.2-112.3 degrees C running exactly 24V (via my V meter) to the bed which again is controlled by the Duet via the SSR which engages the power to the bed. Before tonight the SSR was simply either on or off.

First and foremost......... I must say that the Duet and the Web Interface is awesome. With this Web Interface I could easily update my congfig.g file to quickly make the following changes. The following HotEnd PID settings were set to settings I defined for my stock SeeMeCNC HotEnd (I did not adjust these this evening).

I set my print bed at 100 degrees C and the Diamond HotEnd at 228 degrees C which is my HatchBox ABS optimal extrusion temp on my stock HotEnd. The following are what I came up for settings for the Diamond HotEnd and print bed. Of note the Print Bed has a copper heat spreader, the glass and PEI (using the 12X12 adhesive sheet). Also important is that this was in my print chamber which was at 42.5 degrees C and my ventilation/exhaust fan was running.

M301 H0 P24 I0.80 D105 T0.50 S1.0 ; PID settings for Print Bed
M301 H1 P10 I0.10 D100 T0.50 S1.0 ; PID settings for extruder 0

With the above PID settings:

• The bed varied from 99.9 to 100.1 degree C

• The HotEnd varied from 227.9 to 228.1 degrees C

It did take about 5-10 min to stabilize to these variables. There is now a stable flicker on the SSR running the Print Bed. Tomorrow I will measure how long it takes to achieve this stability in both the bed and HotEnd when starting from room temperature. Of Note: During the time I typed this note, by Print Bed is now stable at exactly 100.0 degrees C without variation!!!!!!

The HotEnd is still variable from 227.9-228.1 degrees C..... thus, next is to tweak the HotEnd, since I suspect I can also get that stable as well. Recognizing the caveat being there is no filament being extruded which would cool the HotEnd.

3/24/2016 Addendum: From room temperature (24.3 degrees C) it took 2 min and 6 seconds for the Print Bed to reach 100 degrees C. It took 3 min and 28 seconds for the HotEnd to reach 228 degrees C!

Well done!

I need to print FSR brackets. I manually set up my Z height and calibrated all the end stops. What I could not find in any g-code files was how to set the horizontal radius. My bed is ok enough that I think it will print ok but I did have to make each tower a bit tight to accommodate at the center such that a print will stick.

Is there a way to manually set the horizontal radius with the Duet until I get the FSR auto calibration set up.

Thanks.

3D-Print wrote:Is there a way to manually set the horizontal radius with the Duet until I get the FSR auto calibration set up.

I found it in David C's section 3 optimization (https://miscsolutions.wordpress.com/201 ... libration/). M665 and M666! Now realize these can be used to adjust the radius. I need to remember that this has both the delta radius which I set from prior measurements, and printable radius!!!

Also that if I read correctly: Delta radius = Horizontal radius.