Welcome to the SeeMeCNC Community

Keep in mind that all that low-tack tape is there to keep the laser cutter from leaving combustion byproducts all over your nice new melamine parts.

g.

I know exactly what it's for, I'm just annoyed that peeling it did this:

Does anyone have any extra chill pills? I'm all out.

Doc:
Send the pictures of the chipped parts to SeemeCNC support.
They will most likely send you new parts. I am not trying to speak
for them but from past practice, they will take of you.

lordbinky wrote:You'll need to clean the edges of your parts if you want that smell to go away anytime soon.

Why on earth would anyone want that smell to go away? I have spare parts vacuum sealed just so I can get my fix from time to time.

A good hair dryer or a paint removal heat gun on low go a long way removing frustration (and damage) from that process.

foshon wrote:

lordbinky wrote:You'll need to clean the edges of your parts if you want that smell to go away anytime soon.

Why on earth would anyone want that smell to go away? I have spare parts vacuum sealed just so I can get my fix from time to time.

I think that it is better than the new car smell!

Foshon,

I'm pretty sure I did it...it's humid (raining) here in Atlanta and the thingy was outside on the front porch for a few hours...probably had something to do with it. I'm seriously considering snagging a new set of laser-cut parts and working on wiring over the weekend.

Problem is, I need this thing up and running with a quickness, for a few different projects that are time-sensitive. I don't have time to wait for new melamine. Dunno.

Dunno. Sigh.

-Doc

Hey Mods, can you move this whole thing to the Build Zone? Seems appropriate at this point, yes?

Here's a quick summary of my project management skills:

#1 - Anything that can go wrong, will. Some guy named Murphy, or Butt-head or something.
#2 - (Follows #1) plan for disaster.
#3 - If you're a mechanical/aerospace guy, avoid electronics like the Plague. It'll make you feel better when the secret smoke escapes.
#4 - Go eat lunch. It's important. Shortly thereafter, take a crap and a nap.
#5 - Find those chill pills...however, they're like trying to find the tiny elephants in the backyard...haven't seen 'em in months but I keep putting out peanuts anyway. I mean, seriously guys, the peanuts disappear but I have NO IDEA where those elephants are...
#6 - Giggle cos shiz is getting DONE.

Sheesh... I had to clean my edges with a damp paper towel, that cleared out the smell the next day after it had already stuck around for a week... Maybe I didn't bond with it enough to admire it's...bouquet...

foshon wrote:

lordbinky wrote:You'll need to clean the edges of your parts if you want that smell to go away anytime soon.

Why on earth would anyone want that smell to go away? I have spare parts vacuum sealed just so I can get my fix from time to time.

I never cleaned my edges before I built (didn't know that was an option!??!), so now all I have to do is get close and sniff an edge and there you go. Having lived with the smell, waiting for it to dissipate in its own time, I don't really miss it. :p

When I did my build, I found that edge painting had a couple of benifits. 1.-It made my Max look cool and 2.- It sealed the edges and made them much stronger. The paint seeps in and acts like glue that helps keep the edges from chipping. It also seals in the alluring aroma of laser cut melamine aficionados can take that as a positive or negative, your choice.
I don't usually quote myself, but I'm gonna say these again:

"I read a lot of complaints on removing the masking on the forum. I would like to thank SeeMeCNC for giving me already masked and ready to edge paint parts.
http://forum.seemecnc.com/download/file.php?id=1561&t=1
http://forum.seemecnc.com/download/file.php?id=1569&t=1
A trick I learned from working in the sign industry- Use a hair dryer or heat gun to heat up masking tape and paper before/during trying to peel it. I peeled almost complete pieces off of the large bottom and top circles."

Finally, someone who appreciates all that masking tape! It's a costly step and takes some work to apply it! Otherwise, the parts would look they were dropped in a camp fire.

Not only that, but they'd be sticky too - smoke and unburned oils and such all over the material.

g.

PartDaddy wrote:Finally, someone who appreciates all that masking tape! It's a costly step and takes some work to apply it! Otherwise, the parts would look they were dropped in a camp fire.

Some people pay extra for that!!

[img]http://mombat.org/WTRSmokeSeat.JPG[/img]

Can someone please post the link to the belt routing guide? I need to know where the idler bearings go..There are about 17,003,974.25 holes down there and I can't find the link to the picture I had up earlier. I found it before but now I'm stuck. Thank you in advance. I will keep searching in the meantime.

(feeling like an internet idiot)

-Doc

There's a particular picture I'm looking for that shows the side-view of the lower idlers and I am at a loss as to where I found it...

Page 22 to 25 in the Rostock-MAX-Assembly-Guide.pdf

THERE"S the problem...I skipped to section 17 as suggested, and I'm a dumb-ass...there's only one way it works. Still looking for that pic, though.

OK so, in other news, I've found it easiest to put the ny-lock nuts in (just the tip, in the proper orientation), and then thwack them with a small hammer...helps to keep the fingers from bleeding. I had to file a couple parts to get the thingies to fit, but not so bad.

Furthermore, I find this community to be the most helpful I've ever dealt with, but we're all ******* NUTS. I say that with all due respect. Thank you and good-night.

PartDaddy, can I buy a roll of that wide-as-hell tape from you? Seems useful.

doctorgonzo wrote:Furthermore, I find this community to be the most helpful I've ever dealt with, but we're all ###### NUTS. I say that with all due respect. Thank you and good-night.

Is such foul language necessary?

Eaglezsoar, apparently the answer is yes. I'll tone it down.

I'm an aerospace guy, I design and build composite structures and I'm used to cursing a bit too much. "Derr Derm MERflippin cheap mold release compound my boss made me buy instead of the good Part-all!"

I'm not, I repeat NOT a software guy, but I need to become one and it's a little unsettling. I know plenty about G-code and M-code, but the whole configuration.h stuff kinda scares me. It's just going to take a little bit of time.

My buddy is saving up for a Solidoodle and we have a bet that the first person to print a part gets a Sub sammich. I want my sammich.

-Doc