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Chrissi wrote:Update: moved to kitchen, back on granite counter top instead of floor. Ran it with LCD door wide open, Printed last part to fail. Came out fine.
I know, I know... bad girl I changed two things at once so three possibilities.

1- static on waxed hardwood floor. I think this is unlikely.
2- door open,solved cooling issue.
3- not 1 or 2, problem is random and don't have clue yet.

I'm gong with #2 and adding a fan for the electronics. While I am in there I will fuss with the rats nest. If I fixes things then the answer is one of the two.

Adding that fan will probably eliminate your problem for good.

Anybody know what M-code turns on FAN-2 on the RAMBO board? It's the one standalone connector below the top rail of connectors

M42 P6 S255 to turn it on, M42 P6 S0 to turn it off.

g.

You're a saint Gene, thanks!

OK, wait, M42 P6 S255 turns on fan 2 at the same time as the PEEK fan?

Nope, M42 does not address FAN 2

seemecnc hardcoded fan1 to be on 100% when the hot end is on, and fan0 can be access using the slider which uses M106 for on, and M107 for off. Im not seeing where the fan2 connector is though

Hi Bubba, it's a new connector on board version 1.2

http://reprap.org/wiki/Rambo_v1.2

Chrissi wrote:Hi Bubba, it's a new connector on board version 1.2

http://reprap.org/wiki/Rambo_v1.2

since it is not on by default, you would either have to change something in the firmware so its always on, or like you said, issue some command in gcode to flip it on. But because you want to use it for cooling the RAMBo itself, i would just hook it up directly to the 12v from the power supply, so when the PS is on.. your fan is ON.

Thanks Bubba,
Went with the direct to PS option. Started with BIG fan and watched the Onyx temp slowly drop, pulled the plug on that one.
Plugged in the 40mm one and just stuffed it in the rats nest of wires -hey I am testing!
50% into a 8 hr print and still going. Door wide open. I noticed it initially pumped out a lot of accumulated hot air. Stable and cooler now.

Oh so close
About 80%, it was going so well. Then the part got knocked loose and game over.
Will try again tomorrow.

The M42 command I gave controls the FAN 1 output.

The new firmware assumes you've go the PEEK fan connected to HEAT 1 and starts that automatically.

g.

Solved? Hopeful.
Made a cable to plug directly into the PS connectors, if it is on the fan is on.
Designed and printed a fan housing for the door and the 40mm fan... The (4) #6 FH screws thread directly into the holes

Nice! Can you post the .stl or put it on Repables or Thingiverse?

Yes, as soon as I figure out how to put some raised letters on it =)

Success! 8 hr print without a hitch.
We'll call the new fan in the door plus wire arrangement the cure for our quitting problem.

Previously I had taken all of the slack in the wires into the front bay with the board. I un-bundled each wire and pulled it back to whichever bay it originated in and coiled I there and tie wrapped it. Each connector was unplugged one at time re-routed for a clean path and plugged back in. The motor wires were bent downwards from their connectors and ran across the bottom, all other wires were dressed to run higher in the enclosure.
This gives a clear path for air from the fan direct to the motor mosfet driver chips just above the motor connectors.
You can just feel a gentle breeze coming out the crack next to the door.

Thanks everybody for the suggestions, tips and ideas.

Okay, don't have time to add the raised lettering, here is the STL file for the fan duct for the LCD door.

Chrissi wrote:

fan_duct_CG.stl

Okay, don't have time to add the raised lettering, here is the STL file for the fan duct for the LCD door.

Even with all the pictures I am having a hard time envisioning how this fits. Does it fit on the inside of the door in the space behind
the Lcd Display? And you can close the door completely with this in place?

Yes, loosen or remove the LCD display, make sure your fan wires exit right or left so they won't get in the way of pushing through the opening from the outside in. The part has a small flange on the outside.
This did not cure the quit problem 100% but 99% is very nice!

Chrissi wrote:Yes, loosen or remove the LCD display, make sure your fan wires exit right or left so they won't get in the way of pushing through the opening from the outside in. The part has a small flange on the outside.
This did not cure the quit problem 100% but 99% is very nice!

Thank you. I want to see if this also fits the Orion.
I have two Rostock Max printers I can use it on, thanks for sharing this with us.

My pleasure, hope it helps