My Slic3r Results
Posted: Tue Mar 27, 2012 9:24 pm
Lurking on the Yahoo groups learning what I can and now decided it was time to share my experience.
I am running the complete kit with the bearing upgrade. Printing 1.75mm ABS to an acrylic plate with blue painters tape.
Things I have noticed that make a huge difference in print quality. (Some say setting the machine up in metric is a must but I believe this to be a myth, I set it up both ways and it works fine either way).
Mach3 Settings:
1. Get your steps per as accurate as possible, measure and measure again. (Use the axis calibration in the Settings tab of Mach3)
2. Figure your backlash in all three axis. Try to get as much out as possible but there will always be some to deal with.
3. Once you reduce your backlash as much as possible it is time to setup Mach3's backlash comp (works great on these machines). Set the backlash of each axis, set Speed % to 100. Now go into General config and set your shuttle accell to 0.005 (if this number is larger it starts causing pausing during direction changes).
4. Save your settings. (I usually exit Mach3 and restart it just to be sure the changes took.
5. After you calibrate your extruder (do this at about 50mm/min) Go into motor tuning and set your velocity for A axis as high as you can without loosing steps and put the accell to about 50% of your max velocity. I found by doing this I could eliminate bulges in the filament when the X and Y stop to raise the Z axis to the next level. For example, right now my velocity is set to about 1600mm/min and accell is set to 800mm/sec. When I get to the Slic3r settings I will explain how the previous values help.
6. Save your settings again!
Now your Mach3 should be setup pretty well.
Slic3r settings that I use:
I have a few profiles, 0.3mm layer height, 0.25mm, 0.2mm, 0.15mm, 0.10mm (still working on this one).
What I have noticed is that I can go faster when at lower layer heights (more consistent fill rates).
Print Settings tab:
First layer height ratio set to 0.9
Retraction set to 3mm (this is where the faster velocity of the A axis comes into play along withe fast acceleration this prevents blobs when changing layer height and moving from one area of the print to the next) This one setting dramatically changed my prints.
Lets key in on the Printer and Filament tab:
The figures I have changed from the default SeeMeCNC config are:
Nozzle Diameter 0.490mm (this was done as the top layer was not completely filling all voids.
Measure your filament! Mine is 0.168mm
Perimeters set to 35 for 0.2mm and lower and 30 for 0.25 and 0.30mm layer heights.
I found Bridge set to 25 worked great (see the cubes below).
Solid infill set to 30
Infill set to 40
As I drop layer height I increase speeds a few mm/sec. Adjust to your liking.
With all this the only issue I have is lifting in corners as I don't have a heat bed yet (well I do but need to modify the machine to make it fit). Lifting is minimal now that I am wiping down the blue tape with acetone.
Extruder temp measured on top side of the aluminum is around 425 degrees F.
Here is Vader key chain done at 0.30mm layer hegiht
Here is two cubes, one done before calibrating axis and setting backlash comp in mach at 0.30mm (left) and the second done at 0.20mm to the right. Notice the improvement in the bridge!
Lastly two tone whistle done at 0.15mm layer height. I was astonished with this one, it was the best print yet!
I hope this helps some folks out! Been at this for a week and finally feeling like the parts are coming out as expected. Now off to modify the H1 to accept a MK1 heat bed!
I am running the complete kit with the bearing upgrade. Printing 1.75mm ABS to an acrylic plate with blue painters tape.
Things I have noticed that make a huge difference in print quality. (Some say setting the machine up in metric is a must but I believe this to be a myth, I set it up both ways and it works fine either way).
Mach3 Settings:
1. Get your steps per as accurate as possible, measure and measure again. (Use the axis calibration in the Settings tab of Mach3)
2. Figure your backlash in all three axis. Try to get as much out as possible but there will always be some to deal with.
3. Once you reduce your backlash as much as possible it is time to setup Mach3's backlash comp (works great on these machines). Set the backlash of each axis, set Speed % to 100. Now go into General config and set your shuttle accell to 0.005 (if this number is larger it starts causing pausing during direction changes).
4. Save your settings. (I usually exit Mach3 and restart it just to be sure the changes took.
5. After you calibrate your extruder (do this at about 50mm/min) Go into motor tuning and set your velocity for A axis as high as you can without loosing steps and put the accell to about 50% of your max velocity. I found by doing this I could eliminate bulges in the filament when the X and Y stop to raise the Z axis to the next level. For example, right now my velocity is set to about 1600mm/min and accell is set to 800mm/sec. When I get to the Slic3r settings I will explain how the previous values help.
6. Save your settings again!
Now your Mach3 should be setup pretty well.
Slic3r settings that I use:
I have a few profiles, 0.3mm layer height, 0.25mm, 0.2mm, 0.15mm, 0.10mm (still working on this one).
What I have noticed is that I can go faster when at lower layer heights (more consistent fill rates).
Print Settings tab:
First layer height ratio set to 0.9
Retraction set to 3mm (this is where the faster velocity of the A axis comes into play along withe fast acceleration this prevents blobs when changing layer height and moving from one area of the print to the next) This one setting dramatically changed my prints.
Lets key in on the Printer and Filament tab:
The figures I have changed from the default SeeMeCNC config are:
Nozzle Diameter 0.490mm (this was done as the top layer was not completely filling all voids.
Measure your filament! Mine is 0.168mm
Perimeters set to 35 for 0.2mm and lower and 30 for 0.25 and 0.30mm layer heights.
I found Bridge set to 25 worked great (see the cubes below).
Solid infill set to 30
Infill set to 40
As I drop layer height I increase speeds a few mm/sec. Adjust to your liking.
With all this the only issue I have is lifting in corners as I don't have a heat bed yet (well I do but need to modify the machine to make it fit). Lifting is minimal now that I am wiping down the blue tape with acetone.
Extruder temp measured on top side of the aluminum is around 425 degrees F.
Here is Vader key chain done at 0.30mm layer hegiht
- 0.30mm Layer height
Wonder if and when he will build his H1...
