Hi all,
I'm having an issue with the first layer being too far away from bed. What happen was that I had my loose wire on my PEEK fan wire shorted (wire tape came off), blow the fuse and replaced the fuse. The printer started up like normal now after the replaced fused. Calibrated the towers again and start up a test print. On Repetier-host using Sli3er I have my first layer height at 0.25mm however when the nozzle goes down to print the first layer is not 0.25mm. The nozzle is about 0.75mm or so, since the pla comes out and doesnt even touch the bed. I'm at a lost to what can be the problem now any recommendation to look at or fix I should do?
Thanks
first layer gap issue, after shorting out the PEEK Fan fuse
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- ULTIMATE 3D JEDI
- Posts: 1561
- Joined: Wed Sep 23, 2015 2:55 pm
Re: first layer gap issue, after shorting out the PEEK Fan f
Just go ahead and recalibrate your Z height, and make sure your nozzle is tightly attached. if the problem continues, they you have an odd-ball issue, and we'll continue troubleshooting.
Machines:
Rostock Max V2, Duet .8.5, PT100 enabled E3D V6 and volcano, Raymond style enclosure
Automation Technology 60W laser cutter/engraver
1m X-carve router
Sic Transit Gloria Mundi
01-10011-11111100001
Rostock Max V2, Duet .8.5, PT100 enabled E3D V6 and volcano, Raymond style enclosure
Automation Technology 60W laser cutter/engraver
1m X-carve router
Sic Transit Gloria Mundi
01-10011-11111100001
Re: first layer gap issue, after shorting out the PEEK Fan f
hmm I already recalibrate Z height as in the first post with a tight grip on the paper about or less then 0.003" to 0.004" roughtly about 0.07mm if that is my understanding on how thick most stock paper are. The layer height I was printing before was 0.2mm (before with good print) and now I'm trying 0.1mm at it still first layer still in air.
So i'll go with all things that changed leading up the the fuse getting blown. I had the old cheapskate and 1 blower fan. upgrade with the new injection cheapskate and more blower fan. Recalibrated Z height and towers and was doing a calibration print to see first layer print was going good and no issue with the first layer sticking to the bed and then I had forgotten to retape or 2 of the unused wire came loose and shorted.
Up to this point I had no issue with first layer problem I can't explain ( in the past with bad curling of the pla it would cause fail print and or throw off the printer that would effect the first layer on the next print, which I always recalibrated after these failed prints)
1. I ordered the new fuse and replaced them on the board and the printer started up again (then the fuse was blown the lcd started dark).
2. Recalibrated tower and Z height just all the process before.
3. Issue starts here: Do a test print and the first layer (even with 0.1mm with a 0.5mm nozzle) is with a large enough gap that you can see the come out not touch the bed and curl up and stick to the hot end.
I did went back and check the nozzle both loosen it and tighten it again. No sure how a loose nozzle would give it a gap since I loosen the nozzle it lowered closer to the bed.
At a lost as to the problem since I got my printer back in 2014 and solved other problems.
*not sure if this is related to the issue but just notice that I have my cooling set "keep fan always on" box is checked with no layers disable. Odd thing is that the fan does not turn on while the extruder is heating up or when the print starts as before. I've also manually turn on the fan but when it start it turns the fans off.
Maybe its a glitch in the firmware?
So i'll go with all things that changed leading up the the fuse getting blown. I had the old cheapskate and 1 blower fan. upgrade with the new injection cheapskate and more blower fan. Recalibrated Z height and towers and was doing a calibration print to see first layer print was going good and no issue with the first layer sticking to the bed and then I had forgotten to retape or 2 of the unused wire came loose and shorted.
Up to this point I had no issue with first layer problem I can't explain ( in the past with bad curling of the pla it would cause fail print and or throw off the printer that would effect the first layer on the next print, which I always recalibrated after these failed prints)
1. I ordered the new fuse and replaced them on the board and the printer started up again (then the fuse was blown the lcd started dark).
2. Recalibrated tower and Z height just all the process before.
3. Issue starts here: Do a test print and the first layer (even with 0.1mm with a 0.5mm nozzle) is with a large enough gap that you can see the come out not touch the bed and curl up and stick to the hot end.
I did went back and check the nozzle both loosen it and tighten it again. No sure how a loose nozzle would give it a gap since I loosen the nozzle it lowered closer to the bed.
At a lost as to the problem since I got my printer back in 2014 and solved other problems.
*not sure if this is related to the issue but just notice that I have my cooling set "keep fan always on" box is checked with no layers disable. Odd thing is that the fan does not turn on while the extruder is heating up or when the print starts as before. I've also manually turn on the fan but when it start it turns the fans off.
Maybe its a glitch in the firmware?
-
- ULTIMATE 3D JEDI
- Posts: 1561
- Joined: Wed Sep 23, 2015 2:55 pm
Re: first layer gap issue, after shorting out the PEEK Fan f
Very possibly. It also almost sounds like your slicer may be slightly glitchy. Have these parts been printed before? If not, it may be that the bottom of the object isn't actually on the bed. Go ahead and in matter control, hit 3D view, edit, auto-arrange. If this doesn't do anything, go ahead and reload the firmware, then recalibrate Z. That may help.
Machines:
Rostock Max V2, Duet .8.5, PT100 enabled E3D V6 and volcano, Raymond style enclosure
Automation Technology 60W laser cutter/engraver
1m X-carve router
Sic Transit Gloria Mundi
01-10011-11111100001
Rostock Max V2, Duet .8.5, PT100 enabled E3D V6 and volcano, Raymond style enclosure
Automation Technology 60W laser cutter/engraver
1m X-carve router
Sic Transit Gloria Mundi
01-10011-11111100001
-
- ULTIMATE 3D JEDI
- Posts: 2417
- Joined: Mon Mar 26, 2012 1:44 pm
- Location: Redmond WA
Re: first layer gap issue, after shorting out the PEEK Fan f
Obviously check the generated GCode, the first layer should have something that sends the head to whatever the first layer heigh is, the printer firmware isn;t particularly clever it just goes where it's told.
If after recalibrate Z, you home, then type G1 Z0.1 into the console, does it go to 0.1mm above the bed?
If it doesn't either the Z Calibration didn't take for some reason, or you are missing steps, if it does then either the GCode generated by the slicer is wrong, or you are missing steps.
If after recalibrate Z, you home, then type G1 Z0.1 into the console, does it go to 0.1mm above the bed?
If it doesn't either the Z Calibration didn't take for some reason, or you are missing steps, if it does then either the GCode generated by the slicer is wrong, or you are missing steps.
Printer blog http://3dprinterhell.blogspot.com/
Re: first layer gap issue, after shorting out the PEEK Fan f
The parts that im using for the test has been printed before and printed correctly before. I'm wondering about the skipping step correctly since this new cheapstake has most of a spring load and when I put the belt on might have put more force on the belt. I'm wondering about the screw for the end stop also kinda notice them being "loose". I'm going to do small changes since I want to see what improves or not and what is done to get this fix done.
I'm not sure how skipping step is effecting the fan issue, if its effect skipping step is the cause of this "first layer issue"
I'm not sure how skipping step is effecting the fan issue, if its effect skipping step is the cause of this "first layer issue"