RAMBo and PT100 from E3D

[Viking]

Hi

I'm in the prosess of changing from stock hotend to a E3D V6 with the PT100 thermocouple kit. Why I'm doing this is to be able to run at higher temperatures and using more interestings materials in my prints. Many of this prints I'm actually using in modification on my underwater camera rig. then I need go get better layer addition wich often are acomplished with higher print temps.

So I'm looking for advice and documentation on wich pins that could be used on my RAMBO 1.3 controller for connecting the PT100 amplifier card, and as I understand I need to uppgrade fw to .092xx then I might need som help with the configuration.h file.

I hope to be able to print with Nylon and POM materials om the parts that I would use underwater, especial POM since it doesn't absorbs so much water as the other materials.

[Jimustanguitar]

I run my V6 with a thermocouple. It has an external amplifier board, plugs into one of the extra analog inputs, and requires a firmware tweak or two.

The PT100 is a different animal, though. It's a different type of thermal sensor, and probably needs a different value table in the firmware. I'd actually search on the Repetier forums to see if anyone's done it.

If you figure it out, make sure to share it here! I've also been thinking about that mod.

[Windshadow]

This is from the e3dv6 assembly manual

Configure Firmware (Easy!)
In the following stages we are going to configure the HotEnd in firmware then go on to do the final hot-tighten of the HotEnd. This can be done either on or off your printer, however where practical we recommend doing it off your printer, then mounting.

Connect the heater-cartridge and thermistor to your electronics board. Please refer to the documentation specific to your electronics for Pin-Outs and other technical information which may be relevant to the HotEnd installation.

Marlin
Reconfigure your firmware for the Semitec 104GT2 thermistor: In configuration.h:

#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 5
For safety it is strongly recommended to do the following:

Set the minimum temperature to detect bad wiring (HEATER_0_MINTEMP 5 in configuration.h)
In newer versions of Marlin there are extra features for Thermal Runaway Protection should your thermistor come loose.

Upload the new firmware to your electronics.

Repetier
Use thermistor definition number 8:

#define EXT0_TEMPSENSOR_TYPE 8
Or select "ATC Semitec 104-GT2" if using the Online Configuration Tool (v091)

For safety it is strongly recommended to do the following:

Set the Minimum defect temperature to ensure that the thermistor shorting out is caught by the firmware.
New in Online Configuration Tool (v092) are the two options to also improve safety:

Decouple hold variance and Decouple min temp. rise to detect the thermistor coming loose. These must be set appropriately for your system to ensure that they work properly.
Upload the new firmware to your electronics.

Smoothieware
Use thermistor definition “Semitec”:

temperature_control.hotend.thermistor Semitec
Upload the new firmware to your electronics.

RepRapFirmware
Use the Beta value 4267K.​

Upload the new firmware to your electronics.

PID Tuning
Connect to the printer
Run M303 to autotune your PID - check out Thomas Sanladerer's video guide for more information. Please note that not all firmwares support autotune, and you may need to tune manually.
Set the HotEnd temperature to 285ºC. If you did not do a PID tune, then approach this temperature slowly, exceeding 295ºC will permanently damage the thermistor.

[Xenocrates]

Wind, that applies to the standard thermocouple, not the PT100.

Viking, have you got the amplifier board? If not, you'll need that before you can do anything. The amplifier board gets connected to Vcc (the 5V reference, or you could use the 5V rail on your PSU, it's not too picky so long as the 5V is stable), a signal pin in the EXP zone (needs to be analog), and a Sig-ground again in the EXP zone. At that point, the PT100 is plugged into the amplifier, and away you go (note, if temps are wildly off, swap the sig-ground and signal pins) You need either the temp table (I converted mine from marlin) or repetier .92.
If you don't have the amplifier, you need to go buy it.

[Polygonhell]

Those are the instructions for configuring a Thermistor, they are discussing the configuration for a Thermocouple, which has to be connected via an additional board, and requires different firmware changes.

[Viking]

Xenocrates, I have the amplifier board. And I have an Rostock Max V2 with the module 12v only PSU, not the computer style PSU. So I need to take the 5v from the RAMBo

[Xenocrates]

I kinda figured. It's actually better to use the RAMBO Vcc, as that way you use a common reference, but I was lazy when I set mine up, and already had a 5V lead for a USB port up top. I probably should document this crap better at some point. open mine up and take a few pictures.

[Windshadow]

Opps sorry I missed that part of the question.

[Viking]

I'm just getting the Rostock max back togetter and is on the first rounds of calibration. I ipgradet to the latest Repetier firmware 0.92.8 . At first startup it's looking like it's working and measure the right temperatures. Only thing I had to set in the firmware in adition to the obvious wher which pin I connectet the PT100 on.

[Viking]

Aftyer quite a few prints, big and small. The thermocouple and E3D v6 hotend works very well. I a did'nt do much more than set up the repetier with the correct settings and instal it on the printer. Now I just have to read about ways to fine tune the RAMBo and the printer, I think most of this work will be in the firmware, since I can't find much to alter on the printer it's self, it's a solid construtcion and it's sists on a solid table by it's self.

Any firmware mod's to look at in 0.92.8 repetier. Like current to motor's heatbed etc. ?

[Eaglezsoar]

It would be great if one of you could write documentation on how to install the PT100 including how to set the firmware and selecting the
correct pin numbers. Just a thought because I know that it takes a lot of time to do something like that.

[Viking]

I can start with what I had to do and parts involved.

[Xenocrates]

I will likely map out each of the pin sets, and write documentation while I'm working on my Abomination later (Rambo controlled heated chamber FTW). Hopefully I can get E3D to add it to their guides on their website once it's done (would be even nicer if I could claim the 25$ of store credit for a guide too, but I doubt that my guide will be good enough)

[Skull One]

I would also like a guide. I'm in the same boat

[DerStig]

Anyone use a PT100 and the HE280? I'm thinking of using a E3dV6 with the HE280's accelerometer board but the HE280 uses one of thermistors leads as a ground