Welcome to the SeeMeCNC Community

A company in Austria recently made their 3d-scanner application free of charge...works with kinect

http://reconstructme.net/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

haven't tried it though...

I just found this handy tool. It's a simulator for GCode, where you can watch the movements of your machine. http://gcodeprintr.dietzm.de/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; Just load a gcode file and watch what your printer is doing in a simulation. I used it for examining the...

yes, i measured directly on the pads of the onyx.

but thanks. ordered a new one, that should arrive in a few weeks...

Yes, I did dial it down to 20V and at first everything worked like a charm. It heated to 100°C in about 5 minutes. But suddenly the bed only used about 7A for heating and couldn't hold the temperature. I then took everything apart and measured the resistance of the bed: 2.7 Ohm When I assembled ever...

@rpress did you also modify the bed pid max value? The reason because I'm asking is, that I also did the conversion to 24V using a Meanwell 600Watt psu and 100A ssr, and I think i just wrecked my v2 Onyx. :-( When I heat my bed a section in the middle with a diameter of around 10cm stays cool and wo...

Thanks for the info! Really appreciate it.

So in short I need a new bed?

So I hooked everything up again and dialed the psu back up to 24V to see if it works with 3Ohm also. The bed was heating, but the temperature in the middle where the thermistor is wasn't rising. When I checked I found that the bed had a cold spot in the middle with a diameter of approx. 10cm and on ...

So I was upgrading to 24v today: got my meanwell psu with 24V/27A (dialed it down to 20V) a crydom 100A ssr wired everything with 2*15AWG wires. So everything worked fine, heated from 23°C to 95°C in about 3 minutes with bangbang-mode enabled, and therefore I did the pid autotune to switch to pid. P...

Did some first tests on capturing the messages sent by repetier host to the printer and back and i think it should be doable. When I have time I will try to hook up a teensy in between the computer and the rambo. But first I'm busy with my upgrades (e3d v6, enclosure and building a filament extruder...

I'm also interested in such a sensor. How about a different approach than changing the firmware: Hooking up a e.g. teensy board between the rambo and the computer. This board is forwarding all serial communication from the computer to the rambo and back. The switch is also hooked to the teensy board...

Thanks!

I unpacked everything today, because I was worried that the glass-plate didn't make it through the long journey.
But everything looks fine.

Will start painting the melamine-parts on the weekend...

...but the details will follow in another thread

Hi community! So I got my RMax-package today and thought I should introduce myself since I'm hanging out in the forums for quite a while now (and reading everything about assembly, mods,...). Shippment was pretty quick from America to Europe, only 5 days, but then it got stuck in customs for another...