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Yes, I still have towers.gco (and the instructions). I'm not sure about the interaction with MC, though. If I do a manual leveling, should I turn off "automatic print leveling" in MC's options>>hardware settings? Or, should I do auto leveling after I've done manual? Somewhere in the instru...

Thanks! I would never have guessed that it was moisture instead of lack of moisture. (Probably explains the snap/crackle/pops I was hearing). I'm reading up on how to dry ABS... I'm still fairly new at this - any pointers on the z-height testing? I seemed to have had the machine set up nicely a year...

puff balls 2016-02-09 17.46.21.jpg Something is going wrong in my prints and I would welcome suggestions. I am getting nozzle jams. Resolved them with a blow torch (brass nozzle was glowing red, the stuff inside was on flames). Using "natural" color ABS, I now get rusty brown layers, esp....

How does one clean out the inside of the nozzle after blowtorching it? The brass was glowing red before the jam was cleared.

Are the Orion Delta 2 (2+ years old) 0.5mm nozzles "standard"? It would cost me more in shipping and duty to order one across the border...

Here are some closeups (the best I could do with my phone). The starting outline seems to never print immediately, then prints and peels, then prints and sticks. It's 0.37mm thick with a few bubbles in it. More flat rather than rounded. The spiral bones (when removed from the plate, they look like w...

I got my Orion after the contest was closed. UPS manhandled it and I've been calibrating it ever since I received it. Given that it managed to print this challenge, should I be happy with my calibration?
Thanks
pt

joecnc2006 wrote:for the gaps try reducing your nozzle width.

Is this a physical or software adjustment? I'm perusing the Rostock assembly manual (even though I got the pre-assembled Orion) to see what else I can / should tweak. Pointers to specific pages or posts would be appreciated.

Other than the cheapskate bearing friction, you'll also want to check the friction of the arms on the u-joints and the u-joints on the axles. Is there a way to check this? I bought the pre-assembled unit. I put some drops of TriFlow on every joint I could find, but this hasn't improved the print. t...

It turned out that my first-order problem was that, during shipping, at least one of the cheapskate rollers acquired "play". I adjusted the carriages as per pg. 92 of the Rostock assembly guide. The next print looked much better. Now, though, I've got "Delta arm blues" (pg. 292),...

Thanks for your helpful replies - I'm already coming down the learning curve. I tried to print the FAN at 225C, but, this time I watched more carefully. The thin cross-piece is not meant to be "solid" all the way through, as I had erroneously expected. It prints the thin arch as little loo...

I think I might try a higher temp (if that doesn't work, I'll go back to leveling :-). It seems to me that the nozzle temperature is controlled by the fan.gco program... ... M190 S90 ; wait for bed temperature to be reached M104 S218 ; set temperature G28 ; home all axes M109 S218 ; wait for tempera...

The photos above were taken using "stock" temperatures. Second run (after a round of re-leveling exercise). The first run ("out of the box") looks similar. With the heigh-adjustment screws, I note that after homing, one screw is barely touching the micro-switch lever, while the o...

This is after one session of XYZ calibrations (roughly 4 passes). [img]http://i1284.photobucket.com/albums/a573/guitp/fan1_zps15215e91.jpg[/img] [img]http://i1284.photobucket.com/albums/a573/guitp/fan3_zps304f563b.jpg[/img] [img]http://i1284.photobucket.com/albums/a573/guitp/fan2_zps477e9da3.jpg[/im...

Just fired up my Orion Delta for the first two times. I am expecting the FAN.GCO part to come out "solid". (Is that the correct assumption?). In fact, the top, thin strut is partly hollow and the "wings" have (vertical) layers - if I bend them, I can see the "layers" se...