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Some are running it without doing the jumper thing, but it's pretty easy to do and can save you some grief.

Try this thread: http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=49#p2188

Welcome, neighbor to the north!

Got through the build, eh! Well, the fun is just getting started. Did you get that PLA on order yet?

AndGorew wrote:Doug we both mean drill 4 holes for the clamps to screw to instead of just the belts screwed to it. that way you dont have to worry about stretching out a hole in the belt

Ahhh! I see now!

I'm not running the new design, so I'm not sure if this will help you or not, but I had this problem when I first got my machine built. What I found was the tube was not centered directly below the grooves in the rollers. The filament was hitting on the bevel of the tube, and sometimes went sideways...

That is the only way I can see to do it. I looked at that for about 15 minutes last night trying to figure out another way and looking at the pics posted on the SeeMeCNC storefront site it looks like we will have to drill. Just hope I get it right the first time. You'll get it right. :D If you're l...

In mach3 config/ports & pins/motor output change the DirActiveLow for that axis. That should reverse it.

I get the division by zero error sometimes. I found it's a F0.00 feed rate command. I just do a global search on the ouput file and delete them. Haven't had a chance to go back and see why I'm getting them sometimes and not others, but I'll get the time pretty soon, I hope.

Looks like we have a few new people! I just want to say to all of them at once: Welcome!

Hope you all have a lot of fun with your printers, and I look forward to seeing what you make with them!

Douglas

Is that noise in the motor itself? Maybe I'm hearing it different, but that almost sounds like metal on metal.

johnoly99 wrote:Hey And, we've already sold about 6 kits thru the faire, I'm guessing more to come this week!

Nice!!!

Power to run the controller hooks up to line in. The relay that controls the heater has different terminals for where you would hook up your 12 volt in and out. Looking at that ones terminal config your 110 volt lines hook up to terminals 2 and 3. The 12 volt + feed coming from your H1's power suppl...

I have a few of those around. They take 110 or 220 volts to run them. The output is separate from the operations voltage, and they switch the 12V heaters just fine.
I just need to get a few more thermocouples for them. Something I just keep forgetting to order...

We're aware the threads go on first. Just didn't want to mess up the threads with a vise grips. I've regretted doing that in the past...

Welcome Sebastien! I can't help you on the RAMPS setup, I don't have one. And I'm not all that experienced with Slic3r yet, but I'm learning and it doesn't seem very hard once you get a few settings right. I have only had a H1 for a few weeks now, but I'm working my way towards some real good prints...

http://3dprinterstuff.com/

That's where I get mine. Had good luck with them so far.

I did the same thing jbinion did. Took a knife and cut down the nylon until I could get it on. Tried to leave enough to hold when it was all said and done, but time will tell how that works out.

Thanks Tom! Ran separate wires from the power supply to each temp controller, and it's working again now. Don't know why I didn't think of that, but I guess two axis working fine and two not threw me off. Seems like it would be all axis, not just the same two all the time. But I guess it is what it ...

That looks like it should work. The RTV should do a good job keeping the resistors in place.

I don't think you want to solder any of the connections on the hot end. It gets hot enough the solder can melt. I used crimp on connectors and it's working pretty well so far.

I added a heated bed a week ago. It works fine. And for a few days the machine ran good. But starting yesterday if I have the heated bed turned on, the x an y axis move very slow and jerk around a lot. The Z and the extruder motors work just fine even with the heated bed on. I've double and triple c...

Congratulations! Glad you got it!

Now you can get on to the fun stuff.

Andy, I'm thinking you might have been on the right track by mentioning changing the "Active Low" state. When I put mine together the motors would lock up but wouldn't move. Changing the active low fixed it.

I just measured mine, and with no wires connected at all, there is no continuity between the two loops, either + to + or - to -.

Shuttle Pro 2[/url] for jogging all 4 axis a wee bit easier than just the keyboard. If you have an old Xbox or some other usb controller you can use that and a program called joy2key (http://www-en.jtksoft.net/) to control the machine. I use it for my CNC, H-1 and my laser. Pretty handy to have ava...

I second Mike's request.

I've never met anyone who enjoy supporting what they sell as much as the guys at SeemeCnc do.

Douglas

Tom, Check out this post in the forum. This is what I followed to do mine.

http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=49#p2188