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If the RAMBo cooling fan leads were soldered such that the terminals ended up shorted together, then the stepper motors would never have a chance to run because the F2 fuse would burn out immediately due to the shorted fan terminals.

In looking over the e-NABLE site, I found it interesting that they say they have more people signed up offering to print than they have requests for hands - meaning that a printing volunteer may sign up and not be matched to a recipient for some time. There are other ways to contribute to the commun...

ok ill check the fuse again. would it be the fuse even though the rambo turn on and displays everything Read the post directly above this one for why one thing works but the other does not. Motors and display are fused separately. ok thanks for the information. I am wondering before I change the f2...

PJJ wrote:ok ill check the fuse again. would it be the fuse even though the rambo turn on and displays everything

Read the post directly above this one for why one thing works but the other does not. Motors and display are fused separately.

RAMBo fuses and what they feed: (at least, for v1.2 boards and probably true for earlier versions) Fuse F4 (the big automotive type blade fuse) powers the heated bed. Fuse F3 (the nanofuse closest to F4) powers the electronics, layer/PEEK fans and the nozzle heater. The LCD backlight is a good indic...

Check out http://enablingthefuture.org.

300mm/s is fine for prints where the model XY dimensions are low and the effector can stay near the center. The slicer's travel speed is governing the motion of the nozzle. Because of the delta geometry, the carriage speeds are not linear. This can easily lead to missed steps on larger (XY) models. ...

And is the RAMBo cooling fan running?

How big is this "big print" in the XY plane? What travel speed setting was used when you sliced the model?

Is your RAMBo cooling fan running?

Okay. RAMBo fuse description says fans and electronics are protected by same fuse. That is true of the MOSFET controlled fans, but a check of the schematic shows that the RAMBo cooling fan is protected by the other nanofuse (aka the motor fuse, F2). So sounds like you probably popped a fuse while wo...

Can you connect to the printer from a computer? With the previous questions are trying to determine is, is your whole Rambo board non functional or is it just the LCD display. No previous questions where that the nozzle wasnt extruding filament And was that problem solved before the LCD issue began...

Might be worth posting a picture showing the cables/connections at rear of LCD module and at adapter. If the RAMBo fan runs, then we know that the power supply is alive and the fuse which protects the fan and electronics is intact.

This is likely a simple power problem.

Does the RAMBo cooling fan run? If yes, then the power supply is outputting 12v to the RAMBo. If not, use a voltmeter to measure at the input terminals on the RAMBo. If 12v present at input terminals, you may have one or more blown fuses on the RAMBo board.

PEEK is a kind of plastic. The grey finned section of the stock hot end is made of PEEK. The "PEEK fan" blows air across the fins. PEEK melts above 247C, which is a only a few degrees higher than nozzle temperatures used for printing ABS. Actively cooling the PEEK section with a fan is a g...

Here is a suitable unit. http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores ... 2121316_-1 though I would prefer one with ball bearings if they had it.

Worth a search of Amazon or ebay, too. Spec is 25x25x10mm, 12VDC, 2-2.5CFM.

AFAIK "Steppers Disabled" is not an error message. It is just information. After certain events the firmware will shut off the steppers. When the steppers are disabled, you can move the cheapskates by hand. There is no "enable steppers" action in the Repetier menu. No action is r...

The stock power supply is cheap. On paper, it looks ok. 22A is plenty for a stock machine. However, cheap ATX supplies are not ideal for the PWM controlled resistive loads of a filament printer. On some, placing a load on the 5V rail will improve 12V performance. Some need more cooling. A good singl...

When printing with ABS, I've gotten excellent results printing on Kapton tape.

Some day I'll get around to installing the PEI sheet I bought months ago. For now, half the glass is taped with Kapton for ABS and the other is hairsprayed for PLA.

Steps per mm will need to be doubled.

This motor is another option. More torque (68oz) and $17 each. The downside is that they have round shafts. You'll need to grind your own flat spot.
https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10846

The stepper motor voltage rating is an area of common confusion. Google "stepper motor voltage" for the explanation.

In short, the Sparkfun motor will work.

You'll have a ton of fun building your personalized machine. I think the Max Metal frame is an excellent foundation. I would have based my 2nd printer on that frame if it had been available at the time. Sadly, I pulled the trigger just a couple of weeks early. I bought only the wood parts, aluminum ...

You could try driving the extruder from the unused driver (E1) on the RAMBo. The process is described here: http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=77&t=6902

Air bubbles in the filament?

If it was trapped moisture, I wouldn't expect the rest of it to look so nice.

The yellow bowl looks like there were several kinds of extrusion issues. Could be issues with the filament itself like variation in diameter, moisture content, or other contamination. But my first guess is that the hot end temp is too low. Try raising it 10C and try again. If it is better, try +5 an...