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Another member just had this problem too and it was fixed with: in Configuration.h. Worth a try.

Ahh, good sleuthing, that makes sense. I don't know why the firmware doesn't fault when an end stop is triggered when not homing. At least with that option enabled it won't allow the carriages to crash. You can probably fix the noise problem by soldering a small 0.1uF cap on the back of the RAMBo ac...

Anyway, to report back on my efforts, reverting the firmware nearly completely removed the effect. I've discovered in my searches that mis steps in one direction can be an issue of motor timing so perhaps they made changes to the code in this area. There is an variable in the firmware to adjust the...

Has anybody replaced their motor as a test? If they're melting filament, they're at least 3 times hotter than a healthy motor is supposed to be. I don't suspect a firmware issue at all, something is broken. My Kysan motor (that I got with the 2nd extruder kit) was running quite hot (at least 55C) a...

It's possible that the belt is messed up just near the bottom and as you move up you're moving to a better area of the belt.

So if you have a part with equal material all the way up (like an open box) it just keeps moving to one side?

Hot hot are the stepper driver chips, too hot to touch?

It seems that layers with more material produce a greater shift, which makes sense as the longer it runs the more chance there is of missing a step. The really odd thing is it's doing it consistently in the same direction. I turned up the current and lost the "jaggies" i.e. obvious signs ...

You have something seriously wrong going on if you hit a curved edge and have the arm joints pop out! How is the part attached to the bed, with super glue? That is an incredible force you are talking about there. How did you know? I've actually used super glue on a few prints, heh. The stock arm jo...

No, it's not the arms themselves binding. It's when the nozzle hits a curled edge, especially on a travel move. The stock arms would just pop out of joint and pop back in. The CF arms hold tight and the steppers skip.

Yes, I too believe that the stiffer carbon arms can cause missed steps. On my Wantai motors I have the current at 210 for xyz and that seemed to solve it. You might also need heatsinks for the RAMBo.

Thanks for digging those up, appreciate it. I'll try 260C with dry filament and let you all know how it goes.

Yeah, sounds like it died. You subtracted the test lead resistance when you did your measurement? I'm pretty sure SeeMeCNC does not recommend running the bed at 24V, so we're on our own here.

@rpress did you also modify the bed pid max value? The reason because I'm asking is, that I also did the conversion to 24V using a Meanwell 600Watt psu and 100A ssr, and I think i just wrecked my v2 Onyx. :-( When I heat my bed a section in the middle with a diameter of around 10cm stays cool and w...

I'm printing at 245C which seems reasonable, but I will try a bit higher and see what happens. What kind of nylon? If you are talking about blue trimmer line nylon, that's significantly lower than most people use. I use 260-280C for it. Yes it's the blue trimmer nylon from Amazon. 280C seems awfull...

I've been printing a lot of parts with nylon lately. The dryer works great, and the prints look smooth and lay down with no steam. After about 4 hours of the filament exposed to the air the prints start getting a milky white texture and the extruder steams a bit. The RH is around 80% lately, so this...

I increased the arm length about 4mm from what I measured using my cheap calipers. Did you verify that your printer is still printing objects with the correct X/Y dimensions after increasing the arm length so much more than what you measured? From my experiences and what I have read is that if you ...

Changing the steps/mm had the same effect on flatness as changing both the delta radius and arm length the same percent (but opposite direction to your steps/mm change). Interesting. I would get the delta radius to be perfect (zero at center and X,Y,Z) and changing arm length didn't really improve ...

The pulley does not really affect the steps/mm, unless it has a different number of teeth. It's the belt, but I'd guess that is made okay. So I'd say leave that alone. Changing the steps/mm had the same effect on flatness as changing both the delta radius and arm length the same percent (but opposit...

I've installed the new Repetier-Server and it's quite nice. It has the best controls I've seen for manipulating a 3D printer. Check out the screen shots. http://www.repetier-server.com/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; Next I beefed up the EZStruder. I installed the 60mm Robo...

Thanks for the info. I will cut the 12" tubes down a bit. Just long enough to handle the full plate. If the thicker wall provides any added stiffness I would like to take advantage of it. Same price, too. You'll want them a bit longer than needed to handle the full diameter. Additional length ...

Can you confirm that other than making/installing the new arms, the only adjustments needed then were setting new Arm Length and new Z-max (after new Z=0)? Maybe need to recalibrate the radius again, too. So you got the 288mm light wall kossel arm kit, then? I was thinking of getting the 12" s...

Ball end CF rods and rod kits are available at http://www.tridprinting.com and while I've never purchased from them, I think that is about to change. They don't have a Rostock Max stock length of 269mm, but I think the 288mm would be fine. Would need to update some eeprom values. I think going to 2...

I had the same problem with my v2 rods. I got the carbon rod kit from tridprinting and the effector is now flat.

That explains the crap Fotek SSR I got from eBay. It was rated 100A, and at only 25A it was unreasonably hot. Mine looked like the one in the counterfeit photo.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BKFJWTO" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Thanks guys. I have a hygrometer data logger on the way, so I can see how long I need to vacuum it down for. Hopefully the logger can handle the vacuum. :shock: http://www.perfect-prime.com/temperature-humidity-data-logger.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; My idea is to c...