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I'm pretty close to sold on the flash forge. Though I'm a bit reluctant due to be limited number of slicers. Is Simply 3d the only slicer that will work? I love my Max v2 and have it printing nicely but it would be great to have to going at once.

I have my new carriages ands arms installed. Do I need to change the arm length in the EEprom? I've read about changing the horizontal radius to a starting point of 140 so I know to do that but just wanted to be clear on changing arm length before I run the machine. I'v also read about a bit about ...

I have my new carriages ands arms installed. Do I need to change the arm length in the EEprom? I've read about changing the horizontal radius to a starting point of 140 so I know to do that but just wanted to be clear on changing arm length before I run the machine. I'v also read about a bit about c...

I tried resetting the eeprom and the matter control slic3r profiles back to stock to see if it would fix the slicing problems but it hasn't. I can successfully slice with cura or the mattercontrol slicer but not with slic3r. These same models sliced find before I made the modifications to the print...

So the Raft builds fine, the infill, supports and perimeter all drop down nice, but the 'first layer' always warps. Primarily if it is doing runs of more than 1" long. ABS filament - Rostock 2 max - prometheus head - have tried all sorts of temps from 220 to 240 - tried bed temps from 70-90 - ...

Is anyone using this? https://miscsolutions.wordpress.com/mini-height-sensor-board/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; http://www.filastruder.com/collections/e3d-spare-parts-and-accessories/products/mini-differential-ir-height-sensor" onclick="window.open(this.href);...

geneb wrote:Go through the z-height setting process again. That should straighten it out
g.

Thanks Gene, that did the trick.

Hi All, I just reset my z height as I noticed it needed to be a bit higher. While trying to run the first print after doing this the hot end came down and skipped across the glass until it knocked an arm off. I did notice that the LCD screen said that my height was 790 or so. Now when I try to home ...

Have you tried purple glue stick in combination with hair spray? An enclosure is also a huge help when printing with abs. Since getting an enclosure and printing and the skirt 0.01 from the part, I haven't had a single problem. I usually do a 4 or 5 loop skirt

I run a 3 loop skirt 0.05 from the part.Since I began doing this, I've had perfect adhesion and not even the slightest curl. I have an enclosure so that may help a bit. I also exclusively use Elmer's purple glue stick and then a shot of Aqua net a few minutes later. That combination works for everyt...

I would start with the stock hot end, it prints nicely. If you install it with a quick connect it will make the switch to the e3d v6 a little quicker. Mine took about 40 minutes to change out Cool. Was that 40 minutes with the quick connect? Any idea where to source the parts for it? Actually it wa...

I would start with the stock hot end, it prints nicely. If you install it with a quick connect it will make the switch to the e3d v6 a little quicker. Mine took about 40 minutes to change out

I had a similar problem even after doing a PID auto tune. I rewrapped the hot end in Kapton and then stuffed some fiberglass insulation around the hot end on the top and all sides. That took care of my problem, now it consistently reaches target temp with no problems .

Yes, I'm pretty sure you can get make it into a Stl file and the scale it down. I guy where I teach is scanning entire rooms and then scaling them down and printing on a a z corp 3d systems machine. Last time I scanned something large I ran the PlY file thru Meshlab and then saved as a stl.

This is great! What software are you using? I've been using a Next Engine scanner with great results but I would love to make my own. Any chance you could post pics of more scans from this machine? What was the build time?

I'm in South Minneapolis, I could print some up for you if you don't mind picking them up.

You should check out Form Z free, It has great tutorials and webinars on youtube.

I know that this response is a bit late but I've been printing exclusively with the seeme white ABS and have it printing nicely. Settings: 253c (Prints great with the E3d v6 which is what I'm using Bed 95-100 Adhesion: Purple glue stick then ABS juice over the top right before printing. I also print...

I just got my E3d v 6 in the mail today, took about 1 hour to install. I've already printed 3 parts today. The install was trouble free and the prints are looking great so far! I really like the thermistor mount as well as the speed in which it gets to target temp. I ordered from Matterhackers it wa...

Just ordered some Felt lay from Matterhackers. Has anyone tried this yet? Looks like it prints at 235 so I'm thinking I'll be fine with the stock hotend.

Can't wait to see this, I'm very interested. Right now we're having to print an object, clean it up, make a silicone mold, pour victory brown wax in and then dip the wax in ceramic shell slurry. .(13 dips to build a3/8-1/2 shell) after attaching a cup and sprue material.

Can't wait to see that metal frame! I'm coming from Minnesota for the MRRF(my wife is from Goshen so it's also a family trip.

Thanks Nylocke, I'll give that a look.

Hello All, What would be the first thing to check/repair if the hot end is not responding to inputs? Bed seems to be working fine if controlled by the LCD. As I type , the hot end has gone from 16.1 to 19.8 in 25 minutes. This is with an input of 160 on the LCD. Any help is appreciated.I tried a PID...

Hi all, I've been having problems lately. I connect the printer to Mattercontrol and then slice and export the model to an SD card. Once I select the file from the menu, the LCD shows the correct target temps for the bed and hot end but nothing happens. I usually adjust temps on the LCD before conne...