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I cut the wires to the power supply, and the resistance through both resistors is 80 ohms now . I ordered new resistors.

Yes, I am just using the control panel on the printer and only heating the nozzle. It is slow and I am not heating the bed. I will disassemble the hot end and check the resistors.

The nozzle on my Rostock Max V2 is not heating up all the way anymore. If I set the temp directly on the printer to 200C, it can only get to around 162C after about 20 minutes. It used to be quite quick getting to temperature. What should I check? This is the original machine with upgraded 12V power...

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The filament tensioner includes two mounting screws that are “captured” inside the assembly

Mine did not come with any screws captured inside. I was able to proceed however since I had extra M3 screws since I put on the servo dampeners.

Not the one that I got from where I bought the printer. Matter Hackers points to your original manual On this page: http://www.matterhackers.com/store/printer-kits/seemecnc-rostock-max-v2-3d-printer-kit-complete-kit" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; They point to this file: ht...

The manual does not cover the version 7 heated bed that came with my unit. (no Hot End LED)
I was able to build through that step, just ignoring the Hot End LED stuff, but you should update the manual.

One idea to try for heating the air inside is a bonnet dryer instead of a space heater. It provides warm forced air through a hose that should be easily attached. Add a thermostat to turn it on and off.
[img]http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41biXyVPvTL.jpg[/img]