Welcome to the SeeMeCNC Community

Outstanding!

I don't have an answer to your question about the thread locker but as far as soldering the crimp connectors, that is exactly what I did. I don't trust crimp connectors so every connector (except the hotend resistor wires) was soldered in my build.

Update. I redid my PID calibrations and compared them to the original numbers I had written down...they certainly did change. That was a good sign - I figured, resistors are broken in now so an adjustment was probably necessary. When I went to enter in the new numbers into the EEPROM, I discovered t...

Okay, good. I did replace my Peek fan but that was a 2 months ago. Anyway, hopefully calibrating the PIDs will take care of it.

I've got about 10 1/2 days of printing total printing time on my V2 so far and it has been peforming very well. Prints have been great! I print ABS at 235* and up until the last few prints, the stock hotend has been able to get to that temp without any hesitation. However on the last few prints, it ...

UPDATE: The print was successful and the addition of the metal tab prevented the bowden tube/mash wire harness from getting stuck behind the joint or getting impaled on it. I can now print with confidence on large prints where the movement of the effector causes the bowden tube/wire harness to come ...

Here's what I ended up adding to prevent the Bowden and wiring harness from getting stuck behind or impaled on the joint:

[img]http://sosandtrappers.com/upload/fix.jpg[/img]

I'm redoing the print now so I will know within the next 4 hours if this works.

Thanks.

I'm thinking of a metal strip mounted to the Cheapskate and bent around the front to deflect the bowden tube and keep it from getting stuck but would rather print something if it's available.

Hi and congrats on your new printer. I took a look at your youtube videos. Very impressive. Would love to see it printed out. Also, please do post the .stl for the Radial layer fan. It would be interesting to see if this design could avoid hitting walls on an enclosure as well as avoiding hitting th...

I know that I've seen a tread on this before where someone printed something to prevent the bowden tube from getting caught behind the joint where the arms connect to the Cheapskate. I searched with various key words but I couldn't find the thread. It happened to me for the first time last night. I ...

hmmmm.... I was hoping it wouldn't require a firmware modification. My printer is working perfectly and my fear is that if I change the firmware, it will cause unexpected issues. And with my luck, even if I restore the firmware to it's original format, the issues would remain. you know what I mean.....

G4 S180 ;(g4 is the command, and s180 is the time in seconds) That will cause a 3 minute pause between lines. For the temperature set points, perhaps someone smarter than myself can help. I'd assume that there's a way to do this with relative values instead of absolute so that you could just write ...

Recently I got it into my mind that some of the curling and warping with larger surface area ABS prints can be avoided by gradually cooling the print bed. The theory is that if you have a large rectangular piece that is a half inch or more in height, that rapid cooling causes the top layers to cool ...

Have you made any changes to your configuration lately, like increasing retractions? It is possible, as you suggested that you could have some bad filament or even filament that is actually PLA mislabled as ABS. When you discover that it stops extruding, is the stepper still trying to push the filam...

What kind of filament are you using? If it's PLA and your extruder stepper motor is getting hot, it could be softening up the PLA to the point where the gear no longer pushes the filament through.

Here are some pics of the final build. :D [img]http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll177/Vitaly_Gutkovich/96646724-7e0d-47f3-8ca9-acc9d99d66b2_zpsgjjpoyqt.jpg[/img] [img]http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll177/Vitaly_Gutkovich/0b0a722a-93fc-442e-88ac-668f7ef501b5_zpszqbtdgnf.jpg[/img] That looks sh...

jsnbrgg wrote:

Tincho85 wrote:for a very quick fix you can do this:

Bolsa.JPG

But I don't have a cat to hold the plastic down!

Print one, silly!

I can't see how this would work on a delta printer. It seems like the tubing for the water would cause too much resistance to the movement of the effector/hotend. Also, the water reservoir is fairly small. Wouldn't the temperture of the water slowly climb, causing it not to cool as effectively the l...

I'm not into guns, but that's pretty cool. Will you be posting the .stl files? I have a friend that would love to build one.

Although it's interesting, I don't see any practical value in my case so I would not back a kickstarter for this. But I'm just one person. Others may find a lot of value in it for them.

I look forward to seeing your video. I can imagine it printing and assembling one item but then what? Does it remove it from the build plate and start over?

I can see the benefit to schools and in learning environments.

Perhaps you can explain the concept a bit more. I watched the animated gif but I'm trying to understand what, other than the coolness factor, this brings to the table. Is this more to be used as a teaching tool or is there a practical use for this? I mean I could drop that part in to a completed pri...

I use 95 degrees for the bed and 235 for the hot end. I also use four, cross hatched layers of purple glue stick. As long as the glue stick is laid down fresh just before printing, I don't have any warping issues.

Welcome from a transplanted Nederlander.

What I have found that is pretty reliable is 95 bed temp and 235 hotend. I use four cross-hatched layers of purple glue stick. the key is that it has to be fresh. If I printed the day before, I will add an additional two layers of fresh glue stick. Whenever I fail to add fresh glue stick, I have cur...