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bubbasnow wrote:what he means is you will need to match baud rates, on both the pi and the rambo. this will require a pc connection for updating the firmware baud rate on the rambo.. unless it has been added to the panel controls

How do I change the rate on the rambo? do I do it in the repetier firmware?

You're changing the baud rate on the Rpi and on the Rostock at the same time, right? Changing just one of them would cause strange behavior, or nothing at all, and seem like an error. http://puu.sh/jHkJQ/7c2c440b35.png" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; Im changing the rate th...

When setting the baudrate to 250000 my rostock max v2just starts turning on and off again. but when I dont have it to 250000 I cant upload to my sd card and I cant edit target temperatures and everything I upload fails to upload

Jimustanguitar wrote:http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23 ... ting-guide

I'm printing with abs it days either add a cooling fan or increase top layer higher. I thought it was frowned upon to print abs with a fan

These dots have been showing up on a few prints, any reason?

KAS wrote:Okay, heat your hotend up to printing temp. Take a piece of ABS filament and touch the brass nozzle from the outside. Does it melt?

Yes

I'd disconnect the bowden tube (AT THE EXTRUDER not the hotend since on the V6 the bowden tube runs into the body), set the temperature to 250 and try feeding the filament by hand to see what it feels like. It could be clogged, or it could just be under reading temperature by a significant margin. ...

I'd disconnect the bowden tube (AT THE EXTRUDER not the hotend since on the V6 the bowden tube runs into the body), set the temperature to 250 and try feeding the filament by hand to see what it feels like. It could be clogged, or it could just be under reading temperature by a significant margin. ...

I'd disconnect the bowden tube (AT THE EXTRUDER not the hotend since on the V6 the bowden tube runs into the body), set the temperature to 250 and try feeding the filament by hand to see what it feels like. It could be clogged, or it could just be under reading temperature by a significant margin. ...

I'd disconnect the bowden tube (AT THE EXTRUDER not the hotend since on the V6 the bowden tube runs into the body), set the temperature to 250 and try feeding the filament by hand to see what it feels like. It could be clogged, or it could just be under reading temperature by a significant margin. ...

I'd disconnect the bowden tube, set the temperature to 250 and try feeding the filament by hand to see what it feels like. It could be clogged, or it could just be under reading temperature by a significant margin. At 250C with ABS there will still be significant resistance, but you should be able ...

Hi, try printing a hollow cube with retraction disabled and 235ºc hotend temp. What's your print speed, retraction speed and retraction amount? Nothing comes out when I press extrude on matter control so I dont think printing hollow will help It will only extrude in matter control for a little but ...

Tincho85 wrote:Hi, try printing a hollow cube with retraction disabled and 235ºc hotend temp.

What's your print speed, retraction speed and retraction amount?

Nothing comes out when I press extrude on matter control so I dont think printing hollow will help

you need to calibrate your hot end... you need a thermocouple and a multimeter that can read temps. you need to see if your thermistor is actually reporting correct temps. set your v6 to hot end temp to 245 and see if it can print. I dont have one can you recommend a good one thats not too expensiv...

IMBoring25 wrote:Have you verified the hot end fan is running and blowing in the correct direction (towards the hot end)?

What brand ABS is it? If it's actually mis-labeled PLA, that might conduct enough heat up into the heat sink at 228 to cause a problem.

yes its blowing the right direction

IMBoring25 wrote:Have you verified the hot end fan is running and blowing in the correct direction (towards the hot end)?

What brand ABS is it? If it's actually mis-labeled PLA, that might conduct enough heat up into the heat sink at 228 to cause a problem.

Makerbot

KAS wrote:i see, sounds like a thermal issue. What temp and type of filament are you using?

After a while of extruding the bowden tube will start coming out and the filament is all curled up

KAS wrote:i see, sounds like a thermal issue. What temp and type of filament are you using?

228c And ABS

KAS wrote:So it extrudes when you use the manual controls in Matter Control, but not when you generate g-code in the slicer. I haven't used MC in a while, do you have an option to select different hotends in the settings?

It will only extrude in matter control for a little but then it jams again

KAS wrote:If you remove the bowden tube from the hotend, nothing would come out during a print? Do you see the extruder wheel turn at all?

Yes it doesnt spin when you take it out

You need to be as specific as possible, print speeds, retraction settings etc. The two usual issues with an E3DV6 are either the Teflon tube is not seated at the bottom of the hole, or running too much retraction, for the latter if your over 2mm it's too much. I'd also print much hotter than that f...

Polygonhell wrote:What sort of filament? what temperature settings? Etc etc.

Abs, 228c E3V6 hot end and im using a rostock max v2

When I put the filament in the extruder and press extrude on matter control some filament will come out, but when I try and print the calibration cube nothing comes out, I havent been able to print anything since I built it about a month ago. (The solution was that the fan turned off and the heat si...

[Update]
When I swap around the small fuses the screen turns on but nothing is on it

Can you connect to the printer from a computer? With the previous questions are trying to determine is, is your whole Rambo board non functional or is it just the LCD display. No previous questions where that the nozzle wasnt extruding filament And was that problem solved before the LCD issue began...