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Thanks Mac! That did this trick. I printed out the clip and tried again. This time at about the 10 hour mark, I noted that the bowden tube has a bit of slack in it at full extension, and due to the particular print angle, the tube and wire whip were getting caught against the arms for a moment on ev...

Are you using a Duet board, by chance? It's been a couple firmware versions ago, but I was seeing the exact same behavior with my thermocouple board on a Duet. I swapped out the thermocouple itself and later the amplifier for a different make and model that was similarly compatible, and the issue p...

I've been trying to print this planter as a Christmas gift: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1236962 With my current settings, its showing up as about a 22 hour print. Every time I print it, I get to around the 10 hour mark and then the printer shuts down. The error shows that the printer thinks the...

I used the hollow cube calibration as well as the 50/100 mm cubes to adjust things. My extrusion modifier is now set to .96. My suck/prime is set to 2, and I brought the x/y travel speed down to 250. Things are a little better, but there are still a few voids, and some banding: [img]http://i.imgur.c...

mhackney wrote:That all sounds good. But it really seems like registration is a little off. What do you have for part cooling?

I have the HE280 hot end with the 3 fans that come on it.

^ That's me and shhhh about the Penguins. Check out http://www.eclecticangler.com and click the 3D printed fly reel link on the left side. Good catch by Polygonhell. What I see now looks like slight layer registration issues - which is a mechanical issue with your printer (usually, slowing down can...

Well that's quite a bit better:

[img]http://i.imgur.com/PzfYCvc.jpg[/img]

Just changed the prime up to 2 mm. Sometimes it's the little stuff that makes a huge difference.

You have a 2mm suck and only a 1.5mm prime, that will lead to voids at the start of segments. You really want them set to the same value. Good catch! I must have missed that when I last adjusted the setting. I'm going to try a test print now (50mm box) and see how it does. I've had really good resu...

No clicking noises. I used some other filament (white PLA) previously, and adjusted extruder step settings so that 100mm advances exactly 100mm. I suppose it could be different with this filament. Here's my print speed settings: [img]http://i.imgur.com/saaNEVB.jpg[/img] I have the precision <-> spee...

I've recently made some upgrades to my Rostock, as well as switched over to using KISS slicer and Octoprint on a Raspberry Pi. I've had some good prints, but just recently tried printing a new fly reel and am having some troubles. First off here's some pictures of what the problems are: The pillars ...

Thanks for writing this up! I ordered the parts and will be setting it up next week sometime. I'd love to see your take on a case and mount, too.

I have mine wired to the hot end fan leads. I figured that if the new setup has the fan on all the time that I could just hook right in there. Makes for a clean install, and keeps my LED light ring on whenever. I'm not worried about doing the mod to turn the fan off at lower heat, as the noise is a ...

I've printed this roll of PLA dozens of times (In fact, I'm starting to run a little low on this spool). I wipe down the bed with alcohol between every print. That's what has me so boggled. I can understand a tall narrow print perhaps coming loose, but the knob for the spool holder I'm printing is m...

30 seconds with a round file did the trick for me.

I thought I would miss having a handle on the stepper shaft, (no room for it on this stepper) but it seems fine without it.

Weird. Now my prints are having trouble sticking to the bed. I just finished one that slipped twice before printing with a raft. I just tried printing one with a pretty wide base (the knob from the link above) and it got a few hours in before it slipped. Bed is PEI, running at 72c. I haven't had sli...

Turned out to be temperature. I upped the temp to 200 and the problems cleared right up. With the lower temp, the filament wasn't thin enough when it extracted, causing it to come out with some blobbing. That was enough to cause it to stick to the nozzle and get drug around.

[img]http://i.imgur.com/Tug9GAe.jpg[/img] Now that I have the new HE280 hot end, geared stepper and EZRStruder installed, I'm trying to get my print quality back up to snuff. The cone pictured above is for the spool holder here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1060029 Note the blobbing on the middl...

Well, I installed the geared stepper motor, configured the esteps settings for it, re-calibrated and tried printing again. Night and day difference. Before and after: [img]http://i.imgur.com/Pf9yRlE.jpg[/img] [img]http://i.imgur.com/W06HSeA.jpg[/img] When running the automatic calibration, the head ...

That did the trick. Had to switch one pair (ABDC) to get it going the right direction, but that got it working. Then I had to increase my steps/mm to match this motor. It's pushing filament quite nicely now (and is a lot quieter than the stock motor too). I still have a lot to troubleshoot and confi...

I'm using MatterSlicer. These settings, slicer, and filament are all things I was using with my previous setup (e3D V6 and EzStruder).

Looks like symptoms I've seen for too much residual heat and not enough top layers. Is this ABS or PLA, and what are your temperatures, minimum layer times, and fan percentages? This is PLA, off a spool I have used lots of times before the hot end swap. Temps I tried were 195 and 200 .2 mm layer he...

Hmm. Well the calibration runs fine now, but my prints look like crap. Here's a couple of cubes, or at least they were supposed to be cubes: [img]http://i.imgur.com/9kHwIBV.jpg[/img] I triple-checked my e-steps calibration by pulling the bowden tube from the hot end and measuring that extruding 100m...

Thanks! I knew the head turning like that was an issue, but wasn't sure which settings I needed to modify. Through a bunch of trial & error with those settings I got it to work. I ended up with: #define Z_PROBE_X1 -110 #define Z_PROBE_Y1 -64 #define Z_PROBE_X2 112 #define Z_PROBE_Y2 -64 #define ...

I purchased this stepper motor from Phidgets: http://www.phidgets.com/products.php?product_id=3325 along with a hobbed gear from TriD printing. I want to use it with my new EZRStruder, but I'm having trouble getting it working. The wire colors do not match what the steppers have that came with my ro...

I just upgraded my Rostock V2 with the HE280 hot end and the EZRStruder. Everything looks to be running properly, up until the point where I try and run configuration. When I send a G69 S2 command from the terminal, it puts the head right at the edge of the bed near the X tower, taps it twice, re-ho...