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I've got a RostockMax v2 with an all metal hotend, and got a deal on a dusty FSR kit.

I don't have a duet board.

Is this a (how shall I say) "sane" thing to try? Am I gonna mess up a working rostock Max and regret trying this? Anyone gone through a similar upgrade?

Rostock Max v2: Sometimes when I plug in the SD card it happily beeps and reads it... but more and more often it doesn't. I tried a new SD card, new SD card adapter. Same thing. Finally took off the face plate, which seems to have helped, which makes me suspicious that it might be the structure arou...

I just cleaned old glue off the print bed, but I thought I had been gentle. Now when I start it up it shows: NOZ: def . BED: def Error:Printer set into dry run mode until restart! FW Version: 0.92.2 Automatic Heater Shutdown in Xm XX https://photos.app.goo.gl/Vs4z3mJSZnved31WA Anything I can do to d...

I too would like to print flexible materials (specifically Tough Ink 3d) with my Rostock Max V2. What do you think is the most cost-effective way to go about it? I've seen a method of pushing the tube up through the extruder so it nearly touches the knurled gear. You mentioned a bondtech clone extru...

Any users of Ultimaker Cura 4 that are willing to share their Rostock MAX v2 Machine Settings (Profile)?

Cura has a MAX 3.2 definition, but I'm hesitant to use that one.
I'd also be just as happy with a screenshot of your "Machine Settings" tabs.

Thank you!

Only MatterControl seems to do nice software leveling, AFAIK.

I was having lots of issues. (my max2 PRINTER. Not me personally) so I fixed a bent heat bridge, and carefully went step by step through the MatterControl based calibration wizard. I've always used the 3-tower script that the guide walked me through originally. It turns out, MC has an excellent 7 po...

I finally find out that Simplify3D's leveling wizard doesn't play nice with a Delta. me in a sulky voice: Well, fine! I wanted full software leveling anyway! What do you use to do full software based leveling on your Rostock Max v2? What I want: "Hello, I'm your leveling program." We picke...

Will do, thank you!

I'm going through the steps in https://www.repetier.com/firmware/dev/index.php
and thinking "huh. I bet these answers, aside from the hotend, are all the same for Rostock Max v2 folks. I should ask them before guessing!"

Anyone had success with that tool? Is it overkill?

I'm trying to upload the latest firmware ( https://github.com/seemecnc/Firmware ) to my Rostock Max 2. I've got the E3D All-metal v6 HotEnd upgrade. Which of the three firmware settings should I be using? The latest User Guide ( http://download.seemecnc.com/rostockmax/Rostock-MAX-v2-User-Guide-1stEd...

My guess is that the D of your hotend PID control is too high. I saw the same thing after my autotunes - the temperature would always just hover below the setpoint. I wind up reducing my D by about 30% and my I by about 10%, then the hotend gets to temp just fine. I recommend trying that. Fixed it ...

I too am having this issue when printing PETG. I have a Rostock Max v2, E3D All-metal v6 HotEnd. I'm shooting for a rather cool PETG 235C for my print, but it hovers at 220. Surprisingly enough, it didn't kill my print! (which makes me a teeny bit suspicious that maybe it is up to temp but is readin...

AHHA!

I didn't have any retraction. Adding 8mm of retraction helped a HUGE amount.

What do you think of "Coast to End" vs "Wipe"?

[img]https://i.redd.it/nu7amaq0bj9y.jpg[/img] I've been trying to get a decent print from my Rostock Max v2, using a spool of clear PETG. The stringing is pretty bad, and the wall corners are very bad (the blue highlights in the benchy). In an effort to fight stringing I upped the retration a bit fr...

I've got what at first glance appears to be conflicting problems: gappy bottom, stringy top. I'm on a rostock max v2, white PETG, 250 extruder/85 bed. The bottom of the print is ugly. Gappy, rings breaking off, no fun. Almost like my temp is too low, or I'm not extruding enough. lapras_bottom.jpg Th...

I'm not entirely sure this is the cause, but I am very suspicious. I updated my laptop's OS to the latest Sierra 10.12.1. The next time I started MatterControl, I noticed that the print area was square instead of the Rostock Max v2 circular area I'm used to seeing. Then later I couldn't connect to m...

I do not like layer shifting. I do not like it Sam I Am. I'll check the belt screws. I also think it was a bit related to a leak I had in the hotend - plastic was oozing (very slowly) out the side of the nozzle, and would form a "booger" that you can see as a little bump in the picture. Ma...

I saw the v3 announcement and immediately thought "crap, I'm a dinosaur". But after reading the changes, it seems like all the big changes made assembly easier, and if you already survived assembly (I did, barely) and upgraded to an all metal hotend (same) then your v2 is still comparable....

Was hesitant to chop the ends off, not sure if it would help much (any?) to make it just the right length and get rid of the extra twist amount. Did you trim your tube?

Any thoughts of what would cause this sort of not-right-angle layer slip?
Belts not tight enough?
Random glitch in the matrix? Rostock Max v2 with all metal hot-end, printing PETG.

It use to work: I printed the fan shroud successfully. But today, it won't connect from my laptop to the printer. So I remove the printer profile, created a new one, get to the "Attempting to Connect" step, and it stops there. Rambo board has a single green LED, not sure if there is any ot...

Background: I colossally f-d up (see my posts in the manual feedback thread) and cut my bottom wires too short. Short enough that the rambo board is kinda wedged over the power supply. Which I'm imagining is a huge fire hazard. So now I need to splice more length into almost all the wires coming out...

Because the board wasn't in yet, I didn't know which was the front. In hindsight, very dumb mistake. So ya, I cut the wires to 8". Which leads to much suffering. Because 8" != '8" once you routed to the correct front face" - which I now have in the diagram as ( 8" + ??"...