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You may want to check the sensitivity of your FSR board.

Ptachar, I did not reuse the HE280 PCB nor did I get a new one. At the time of this picture, I had everything directly wired to the Duet. Since then, I have added Molex connectors for everything but the heaters which got banana plugs. I replaced the thermistor with a thermocouple, and added a Zesty ...

Thought I'd throw in a quick update. I purchase some of the epoxy, and will hopefully make a mold today. If all goes well, I will have my first prototype bed done this weekend. Some features I hope to put in this or the next prototype: Embed several thermistors in the bed, spaced relatively evenly. ...

I was thinking about Nichrome wire, but I was concerned about localized hotspots causing issues inside the epoxy. I couldn't find much info on using Nichrome for lower temperatures (ie. 60°C) - although I'll be honest I didn't look for too long. I may try this on the next "prototype" versi...

Will do. I just ordered some solid copper wire for my heater instead of a silicone pad, and some of that epoxy. Hopefully I get everything by next weekend!

Just checking to see if anyone has ever made an epoxy casted heated bed. I've searched around, and haven't found much. What I'm thinking is use a high temperature casting epoxy (Smooth-on has the Epoxacast 670 HT - says it has a heat deflection temp of 177°C) and encasing a silicon heating pad in th...

And here's the final creation:

If I replace all parts on my Max V3, is it still a Max V3? I bought this thing back at the end of October, and it is my first delta style printer. I can't believe the quality of the prints it provides. I have since placed a PEI sheet on the build plate glass, which has helped tremendously. This post...

I think the real challenge is to write a slicer than can work out the optimum way to move the bed and the effector during a print. The firmware to control the movement would be easy. There are some shapes for which it is obvious how the motion should be done - for example, an inverted cone (overhan...

Like earlier efforts based on a Stewart platform (six axis motors tilting the effector to arbitrary angles), except this way, gravity is always on your side. Quite brilliant. Shame you have to have such a huge frame to get a build volume that's only moderately large. The slicer is obviously custom....

I don't know about the thermal switch, but the max temp limit is in the Configuration.h file in the firmware. I'm assuming you are using the Rostock Max V3? Are you using OctoPi? The firmware looks like it defaults to having a Max Extruder Temp of 290°C. It may also be in the EEPROM, not sure.

I've been running my Rostock Max V3 for a few months now, and I have had some things I want to try. I've searched these forums and a few other 3d printing forums and haven't found too much, so I thought I'd just get a feel from users here. First, has anyone tried to replace the stepper motors with s...

So I first tried using Tricklaser's motor dampers, and it did quiet the noise significantly but it made belt tensioning a bit trickier. After I had gathered some experience with my printer, I tore it all down and rebuilt it to eliminate some issues that I was having due to mistakes I made the first ...

Interesting, I was getting a deviation of 0.04mm when using the Octoprint autocalibration script v0.10, then I saw this thread and updated to v0.14 and now the best I can get is 0.16mm.