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Sorry, I've been playing.. ;) So I basically rebuilt the entire top part of my RostockMAX taking care to make sure everything was square, the same height, and nice and tight. I then followed your new updated assembly manual, Chapter 17 - Software Installation & Configuration Chapter 18 - Calibra...

DavidF, the EEPROM defaults in the 0.91 firmware are 250mm. This is ok for our purposes as the first step you take to calibrate the machine is to set the correct Z height. Check out Appendix C in the update to the manual I uploaded yesterday. g. Gene, Thanks for the update. I'm just letting you kno...

If your machine has a RAMBo v1.0, you'll need to make sure you're using 8 micro steps. v1.1 and newer can use 16. The website you link is in error - the first edition of the build manual was out before he wrote that blog entry. I know. I wrote it. I'd recommend you download the first edition build ...

Ok, I built my first RostockMAX about a year ago - almost to the day. I was relatively new to 3D printing when I got it, but thru much MUCH trial and error and the help of you guys here I was able to get it printing "ok". Since I was never able to print great, I shoved it in the corner and...

I don't see specific instructions for Onyx bed leveling and adjustment of limit screws (though it is in Gene's guide and may be in one of the links). I put together a g-code program and excel spreadsheet with a short video for semi-automating it here: http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=54&am...

Just curious if anyone has tried these guys before? It sounds pretty good on the surface, reasonable prices, and FREE SHIPPING within the United States which is always a bonus. They talk a good talk on their website, and they even have "PRO" filament available which I guess melts at a lowe...

Anyone have a consensus on this filament yet? I've ordered a bunch of Jet 1.75mm PLA that has been given me troubles, width varies anywhere from 1.68mm -> 1.86mm and some parts of the filament look like they have been crushed so bad they won't fit thru the adapter (my prints literally stop in the mi...

I was attempting to print this (which obviously has a LOT of retractions!). About 1/2 way thru the print, my bowden tube came out of the connector on my extruder. I stopped the print, retracted the filament and pushed the tube back in, clicked continue and it immediately came back out. So I took it ...

You also may want to try using KISSlicer as an alternative. It takes a bit to setup, but my prints have improved 1000% since switching from Slic3r. Maybe it's just me, but in Slic3r I was *ALWAYS* tweaking things to get a good print, and then everytime I printed a new object - I'd have to tweak a bu...

I'm trying to get these settings to work with a 0.35mm nozzle and not having any luck. Obviously I tried changing what I thought were the relevant parts to adjust for the nozzle size, but it didn't make any difference either way. Does anyone else use a 0.35mm nozzle for their prints, or should I jus...

Just out of curiousity, did you exit Repetier and come back in after each change? I noticed that my Repetier wasn't refreshing after I made changes unless I exited out and came back in. Drove me nuts for days trying to figure out why the changes I was making didn't seem to make any difference...

I started documenting some of this on my blog as well HERE.

I received an email from John at Seemecnc who indicates the arms for sale on the website are the new arms that require no sanding. The actual email text is as follows: The arms are up there, it's the standard arm pack, they all come sanded/machined now :) So if you need the new arms that require no...

Ok, thanks!

Rather than highjack one of the other threads on this subject, I figured I'd start my own for what appears to be a very important, yet highly over-looked topic. I've spoken with NUMEROUS people who "can't figure out why they can't get quality prints" and found they have never performed thi...

Ok, I've just rebuilt my delta arms, carriage, pillow blocks, etc. So I need to recalibrate the home switches. I am running the repetier host firmware. I home everything (G28 F4444), works fine. I come down to center (G1 Z5 F4444), works fine. I put the paper in between and lower Z down til it touch...

I noticed your other thread this morning before I made my post above. I too have both extruders working out of the machine, it's the getting them mounted that I'm concerned with. Unfortunately at this point, I don't have a machine running to print a new mounting bracket for the dual heads, even if i...

I too purchased the add-a-struder kit for $175 (not sure why it's soo much when you can purchase the extruder w/motor & hotend for $110, so you're paying $65 for a couple pieces of laser cut wood?). Anyways, I digress... The part I am really upset about is that they don't tell you that you are g...

Nice model! I'm interested as well... Couldn't find anything like this on Thingiverse (at least with a head)..

I second the vote for Ann Arbor...

I posted a message here asking if anyone knows the max. temperature for Arctic's MX-4 thermal compound (I probably should have just asked here in the first place)..

So, long story short - I am rebuilding my hot-ends. While re-assembling them, I realized that the thermistor basically sits in an air pocket and I'm sure doesn't have good thermal connectivity. While reading another thread on here, someone had mentioned putting Arctic silver 5 in the hot-end, but it...

I'm still not sure I understand what the point is. If you wrap your resistors in aluminum foil to the point that they fit snuggly into the hot-end, you don't need anything that can thermally transfer heat - you only need something to help hold them in place, right? Same for the thermistor. Insert t...

I think what probably happened is your high temperatures caused the PEEK to get brittle over time. Normal use would not cause your PEEK to break simply by bumping into your print, it's pretty tough.

I'm still not sure I understand what the point is. If you wrap your resistors in aluminum foil to the point that they fit snuggly into the hot-end, you don't need anything that can thermally transfer heat - you only need something to help hold them in place, right? Same for the thermistor. Insert th...