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help i bought a h-1 printer use put it together it came with 4 axis controller 3 motors 2 velleman one heated bed can someone tell me if the 4 axis is going to work. or is there something better out there that i can use in in its place. somethimng that i can plug in to a usb port instead of a print...

Radio Shack has a one day sale today: http://www.radioshack.com/family/index.jsp?categoryId=30109456&allCount=31&fbc=1&f=PAD%2FProduct+Type%2F3D+printing&fbn=Type%2F3D+printing&filterName=Type&filterValue=3D+printing" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; I'...

I've got an original H-1. It's still going strong. I asked about the upgrade a couple months ago and they were sold out. I doubt they did another manufacturing run. Does your H-1 have ball bearings or acetal bearings? Upgrading to ball bearings was a big improvement for me. I have also upgraded the ...

I'm not exactly sure. I only have version 5. Its supposed to have many tweaks and be slight lighter, but I do not know the specifics. It's supposed to have the same exterior dimensions. The biggest change I can see is in the nozzle angle: http://e3d-online.com/downloads.html I think the steep taper ...

I finally got my E3D V5 hotend installed. It's awesome! Much less ooze with PLA and no worries about high temperature with nylon. :D This is by far the best upgrade I've ever done. You can tell a lot of time was spent making it perfect. Sanjay : Do you have an optimum layer width to thickness ratio ...

Feisty wrote:Ive posted this issue on the slic3r git hub page if any one feels like commenting
https://github.com/alexrj/Slic3r/issues/1212

The issue is closed on Github. Is it fixed for you in release 0.9.10b? I still seem to have pausing.

How would I go about using a arduino to control it? I did see a while back that someone used the tb6560 chip with arduino but it didnt use sprinter and was controlled via PWM Sprinter may be the wrong firmware. Here's a guy using Marlin and arduino: http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?146,167192,2029...

Have you thought about still using the 4-axis tb6560 board? I think you could use a computer and an Arduino Mega (~25 for a knockoff on Amazon) with Sprinter firmware to control it. Do a search on the tb6560 on the reprap forums. I'm in the same boat you are. I'm tired of my dinosaur parallel port c...

I've had luck purposely jamming some pla in the teflon, and then pushing it out. I heat it up, push in some pla, let the pla expand and jam, and then push everything out with the cool end of the pla.

If only it was that easy. I have an original H-1. I'm afraid the hotend with the fan duct isn't going to fit inside the bearing blocks. I have yet to find a good solution short of new bearings and mount.

Hey guys. Thanks for all the advice. I've got a E3D on order. I'm looking forward to it.

Also, just in case you missed it, Sanjay posted about a 4 nozzle, water cooled hotend on the reprap forums. It sounds awesome: http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?1,197736,page=9

Hmmm, sounds like SeeMeCNC needs to hurry up release their all metal hotend . Everyone else seems to have supply issues.

I really want to avoid any plastics in the hotend, and all my filament is 1.75mm so 3mm is out.

From my reading on the reprap forum, the new designs are shipping. My current hotend is toast (literally) so I'd like a new one soon.

I've decided on an all metal hotend so I can reliably print nylon.

I like the looks of the MetalMagma, too bad it's sold out...

Hey guys. Anyone have an extra, used E3D hotend they would like to sell here in the US? I'm not looking forward to the 3 week lead time and shipping across the pond. Thanks!

I'd like to use the E3D hotend on my H-1 printer. It has a j-head style groovemount. Has anyone used this extruder (or one like it) and know of an adapter I could use? Thanks in advance for the help.

I've been fighting the dribble since the beginning. Let me know if you find a solution. The new version of Sic3r is supposed to fix the G0/G1 problem.

chosenken wrote:Could I try heating the nozzle up in like a toaster oven and try to clear out as much of the plastic? Maybe use a soldering iron or something hehe?

I think you could fix it. I've had good luck burning PLA out with a blowtorch in a well ventilated area. That should work for ABS too.

Hmm. That's strange. I've communicated several times with SeeMeCNC about parts for my H-1 in the past year. They've always responded promptly and courteously- even calling me back Friday evening after hours to make sure that my order was correct. I'd give them a week or so to respond. They're a smal...

20 mm/s isn't too slow. I say give it a try. You can always decide to use your hotend for a dedicated printer later on. I'm guessing that you will simply for the convienance. The original SeeMeCNC H-1 kits used that thermostat with a resistor change. The documentation is on this forum, and I'm still...

Have you tried the "lift z" feature in Slic3r?

What is your print speed?

I think everything you need is on SeeMeCNC's server: http://seemecnc.org/download/

This thread might help you: http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=447 The principles still apply if you have the new style hot end. The Mach3 "Tips and Tricks" subforum has some information about calibration and homing. There are some screenshots there to give you a starting p...

Could the Velleman have a loose solder joint on the pcb board? I doubt the power supply would go bad.

Is your original power supply from SeeMeCNC? I accidently shorted mine and fried it. Make sure you turn all the power off before you disconnect anything (including the steppers and parallel port). It is wierd that the voltage is so low. Are you sure everything is wired correctly? I think if the PSU ...

I'd like to do this too. I think the CAD files are posted by SeeMeCNC here: http://seemecnc.org/download/H1-1/ I havn't had time to look at them yet. Let me know if you think they could be printed. The upgrade kit sold by SeeMeCNC is already so cheap I'm not sure its worth the effort. Another option...