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I have done the a steps both ways, but I'll give that a shot. The steps are very close between the safe profile and when using the steps calibration.
Thanx John!

Sorry for the delay in replying to this, guys. I have verified that my native units are correct and I am using Slic3r to generate my gcode. I have used my own profiles and some of the "safe" profiles from John and Steve. I'm on a computer I do not use to generating gcode, so I'll see if I ...

So I've been gone a long time for work and I am finally getting some time to play with my H-1 again, but I have a very odd problem that I can't shake. One day I was printing just fine (other than some minor quality issues) when I had to stop my printing and start over because of a problem with my ST...

So that wasn't it... I'm stumped. It's as if the units are off or ??? Instead of moving one mm retraction it moves the extruder much farther. The coordinates in mach are mm from 0 correct? My mach units are mm, my model is drawn in mm, exported to STL in mm, and sliced. Result is x, y and z all movi...

John, I think I got it, thanks to your post, but I will not know until I can print it tomorrow. The gcode looks better. I had loaded your ABS_oly_Slic3r config file and noticed that the retraction was set to 3.5mm. I had looked at it just before updating slic3r the other day. I never changed this fi...

I'm having a problem lately with gcode produced by slic3r in any version. I am printing with Mach. My problem is that at the start of EVERY layer and also the skirt, my extruder is commanded to advance 3.5 beyond it's current location (even at 0 at the beginning of a print.) and then at the end of t...

PartDaddy, Did you ever reprint the skull? I have one that is printed beautifully (on someone else's reprap...). I haven't been able to replicate the quality on my H1. My prints look a lot like yours. I'd like to try changing some settings and wanted to know how the print looked if you gave it anoth...

I am finding that with MY ABS filament (and understanding that all plastics are not created equal) I am able to print quite well at 200 C. After a few prints I read this write up and tried the 235 C mentioned and I began oozing from the resistor hole in my hot end. Maybe a good idea to start around ...

Cool thanks!

I was having a heck of a time posting pics last night. I have more to show. The whole electronics setup was in the box. I'll try to get more up tonight. I like it. I am mounting the velleman knob through the top of the box as well as a rocker switch for power. One cable in and 2 out to the printer. ...

[img]http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/q619/ggilsrud/IMAG0678.jpg[/img] Printer ready to go with ABS glue on the bed. [img]http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/q619/ggilsrud/IMAG0682.jpg[/img] Everything piled into the box. The plasmacam cd was insulating the velleman from shorting on the PSU. I ha...

Also I had an issue with a conical part where the top of the cone couldn't cool enough to keep it's shape. I've seen some phenominal prints on makerbot rigs that have really great detail and fine points and such. The thought of printing gears, cones, thin parts, anything but the simple shapes I real...

Hi! I'm having a litte trouble I think when it comes to finding the "sweet spot" in terms of temperature with my printer. I started printing at 205-213c with ABS on glass coated in ABS glue and the print seemed fragile. Great shape and accuracy in terms of dimensions, but the layers could ...

That really stinks, Dave. I really like the new hot end you're building! The second time I powered up my printer, I stepped out of the room to do something and I smelled something hot. I ran back in and while it hadn't melted or gotten distressed, there wasn't any good reason for it to have gotten s...

here is a link to the assembled kit I used instead of the DIY kit that was included with the H1. http://www.apogeekits.com/thermostat_vm137.htm Just pull R5 and replace with a 10-18 Ohm resistor. I used a 10 ohm and it gets hot -and fast! You have to be sure to set the temp knob on low and move the ...

This is the plugin I use. I struggled with it on some of my drawings because I use inches when I make my models. Be sure to convert to Millimeters before exporting to avoid exporting an STL file that will contain a microscopic model. You can tell you did this when your gcode files are small (4k to 1...

I'm in, but I would like to know when a heated bed is needed. I'm printing just fine on glass with ABS Glue. Even with prints of plumbing parts that are narrow on the bottom and much wider on the top with little surface are holding it to the base.

Well, it was because SU was set for inches. The plugin doesn't work well exporting in inches, regardless of the export units. I thought I was unable to convert the model in SU to metric, but it was easy. I went to the Window menu, selected Model info, then Units (on the left hand column), select Dec...

So, I'm finally calibrated and ready to print a prototype of my invention. I exported my sketchup model to STL. It looks good when viewed. I run it through Slic3r and the result is 5-14k gcode files that print teeny tiny models about 1/8" in diameter. The diameter I drew it at in SU was 3-5/8&q...

I've been struggling with the same issue and I took the removable portion of the extruder and I turned the extruder. I didn't realize how much effort it took to turn the gears until now. I found the sweet spot as far as the tightness of the drive pulley bolt and I put a drop of motor oil (I'm out of...

Hello and thanks for your time! I have an H1 complete kit and I'm not sure about the DIP switches on the 3 axis board. What is the proper configuration for these? As it arrived, I have a loud and weak Z axis (will not move and makes tons of noise as if fighting itself) when commanded to move. I was ...