Welcome to the SeeMeCNC Community

Its nice to see they took care of the bearings issue, and went with the bronze bushings. It looks like it will solve quite a few issues. The other thing they should probably address is the thin plastic Bed and warping when using a PCB heat bed. Even with insulation it seems to still eventually warp....

That's awesome, it will be nice to get even more members. There's no doubt the reason this place aint busting at the seams is due to advertising. You guys kill everyone else with the price and quality. The only reason I found SeeMeCnc was from someone putting one up for sale on ebay. Then I started ...

Nice !! those parts look beefy compared to the older parts

I was wondering what all came with the upgrade ,, I took a look at the campaign, but it was alittle vague. I did'nt see any real close up pics of the design changes. Mind posting some? Just curios

The one thing I really like about it now, is how rigid it is. Before, I had alot of play, and I didnt see a way to remove it without replacing the plastic parts because they gave to much. It was much easier getting everything together and working with the plastic, but with aluminum it all has to be ...

This is what you do ,,, take two non-nylon nuts and thread them onto the other end of the threaded rod and tighten one against the other. Use the two locked nuts to hold the threaded rod in place, while you screw the nylon nut on the other end ---edit - went back thru and see you already figured it ...

Well I don't have it quite done yet, but I thought I would put it out there. Started off with replacing my x-axis plastic parts because I had melted the side of one of the tri-bearing housings, well after that I just started replacing this and that until I pretty much replaced everything. Did upgrad...

Yeah I was checked that out, too bad I already ordered a ramps board. But I really like the plugin for the power supply and all the screw terminals for the steppers. Not to mention the ATMega 2560 already on the board. The thing is packed full of features. The only downside I see is the size of the ...

whats that clicking noise that keeps going off every now and then? is that from the printer. I actually picked me up some blue car led light strips at one time but never figured a good way to mount them.

Very nice !! I have always loved the extruder design. So nice compared to some of those 'minimalistic' designs out there. Now If I could only slap another stepper on there and have a dually .. But I will have to definitely being adding this when it gets out

I had alot of issue with printer skew when I first built my printer, and the whole issue turned out to be the old computer I was using. Just to rule that being a possibility I would try running the printer from another computer. From your pictures thou it doesn't look like the issue is skew. Try pri...

Thanks for the material Leeway , its exactly what I was looking for. I haven't had a chance to try it out yet due the printer all tore apart for an upgrade i'm working on, but its fits nicely between the glass and plate and looks it will work great.

Plunking down more than a thousand bucks on 3d printer made out of wood always seemed insane to me, especially if you live in a area that gets humid, that wood is gonna expland twist and god knows what else, and its suppose to produce precision parts. The only thing I like about those wood models th...

I don't think its optional, If I remember correctly, I too didn't put in the jumper and it did not work until I had. The Cur adjust is for adjusting the current to the stepper motor, If you find it stalling, you can turn it up, But as things go , the more current , the more heat. I have ditched my e...

on a side note , the 7"x7" Borosilicate Glass that Mcmaster-Carr offers fits perfectly between the screw holes on the heat board front to back . The only problem is the glass was $17 and with shipping and everything came out to $24 .. But I love it and fits great !.

Hey leeway, count me in, enough for one board. Let me know

Well since this being your second board, you could do like I did and solder some wires from from the bad axis on the board and run it to the other bad board to one of the good axis. I'm not fond of these boards in the slightest. But considering the cost of the alternative. Eventually I would like to...

Those do sure look nice ,, but what the heck is a Phebe ?? Anyways It doesnt matter to me much on the shipping, but it does seem like $18 , is a bit much. Should we expect another paypal notice?

That's pretty cool with the wedding bands. I don't wear one because of my job. But being able to print one out of plastic. Hum might have to give that a try

Since the X-axis plastic housing was melted and warped , Decided to chuck the whole curved bronze bearings and housings. It just came to be more of a pain than what it was worth with the triangle configeration. Linear Bearings were out of the price range but with the flanged bronze bearings being so...

I guess Im alittle lost in the whole ramps and repetier deal, I think I need to do some reading on the 3d reprap printer scene. But if it lets me cut the cord to the computer , I'm game

Now all we need is a source for some 7" x 7.5" glass able to withstand the heat. Currently I use glass from one of those garage work lights, but its alot smaller than the bed and I would love to able to use the full bed

Well I was able to get to fixing the issue I had with my Y-axis ,, was having problems with it binding .Those little screws that hold the bearings blocks to the table just didn't seem to work that well, so I ended up adding some small threaded rod from one block to the other using the pre existing h...

I dont have ball bearings on my idlers, just the acetal center with the ribbed outer shell. They seem to work really well. I can tighten the belt so much that the see thru plastic bases on the ends start to bow inwards. I got my X-axis working really well now. It looks like when I upgraded to 5/16&q...

Well I was able to get everything back together and working, it does seem much more rigid now, and there' no twist. But when trying a test print of some small 1/4 circles, they came out pretty much exactly the same, , sorta square. Hum I guess that was a waste of time ..