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Is the drive roller worn down, or do you just have plastic dust "clogging" the teeth? Clear out the swarf and have a close look at it to be sure.

It looks like it's trying to print a curved bridge across the front... Check the model for errors, and look at the GCode in a visualizer to see if you can find more clues.

The newest TrickLaser arms have red sockets to grab onto the stock "dog bone" pieces of the carriages and effector. You can upgrade the arms without having to buy the other bits from TL. It's excellent stuff, though. I've got something aluminum or carbon that Brian made on every single one...

Perhaps somebody else can chime in on the logs. A red flag isn't jumping out at me, but it's been a long time since I've attempted a print on my accellerometer probing machine. Even longer since I probably would have had it hooked up to a host program to watch the command window in real time... I'd ...

RichWP wrote:I typically print larger, so I was looking at the FolgerTech FT-5 (with upgrades) as well - good size and CoreXY.

The FT-5 is an H bot, I believe. I think 1 motor controls X and another controls Y, instead of them collectively controlling both like a Core XY.

If I was buying one instead of building it myself, you'd have a hard time talking me out of the (real) Prusa Research i3.

If that isn't large enough, I'd look at the Folger Tech FT-5 with 713maker's aluminum upgrades. I'd also do the Z belt mod and upgrade the bearings/leadnuts.

Dionysus480 wrote:I'm finding it hard to get down to my target 0.05 deviation. I guess I'm wondering if I'm doing more harm than good. (Deviation is in the 0.08 range.)

Are you actually measuring that amount of deviation, or are you just going by the reported number on the LCD at the end of a calibration cycle?

The nozzle diameter doesn't effect the volume of plastic that the machine is extruding, the extrusion width and layer height do. Regardless of the setting that's to blame, it's because you're extruding more plastic than will "fit". I'd measure a thin wall calibration cube to check your ext...

I can't get their website to load right now, but have you seen the Y adapter that the guys at SeeMe started selling? Basically you can put 2 extruders on the same hotend and retract back behind the Y and feed in the other filament to switch back and forth.

Any chance that the error aligns with your hotend fan? I'd seen the draft from my E3D shrink ABS that's 'downwind' from it. You might be seeing the results of something similar.

Right click on your desktop, select 'screen resolution', and in the drop down click on 'landscape (flipped)'. Problem solved.

Are you using a Duet board? Depending on which way you look at it, its steppers appear to go from Z to X. I've had mine flipped before, so even an idiot can get it wrong.

That's "extra" plastic that doesn't have anywhere to go when it extrudes. If this is your first layer, print slightly higher, and if this is a higher layer than that, try lowering your extrusion multiplier by 1 or 2% to see if that makes a difference. You really should be setting your heig...

Looks like you dove in head first. Nice looking mods!

Are you a designer or engineer by trade, or have you just picked this up as you got more and more into printing?

The facebook group also has sales from time to time.

Looks like your existing web interface doesn't support upgrading DWC as a single zip file. I suggest you rename the existing /www folder to /www-old, create a new one, and extract the contacts of the DWC zip file to it. You can do the update via FTP if you don't want to move the SD card to your PC....

After updating the web .zip on my 085, the version numbers don't line up. The zip file is v1.15a but the setup menu shows 1.11
Is this correct?

[img]http://i.imgur.com/HCXwBNv.png?1[/img]


Also, the SD card config.g is different. Are there any mandatory updates to the GCode required?

Of course I upgraded to 1.17e yesterday


The web control is a .zip or a .bin?

I had trouble with the polarity of the thermistor wire in the hotend bundle. The accelerometer board uses the ground from the thermistor, so if you have the wires switched it tries to get ground through the data communication pins. Is the yellow tx/rx serial light on the Rambo flashing like crazy wh...

I wonder if you could sign up for the 30 day trial of full blown SpaceClaim and export your files in a better format that way?

Has it worked before, is this a new symptom?

Import options: [img]http://i.imgur.com/5HlxVn9.png?1[/img] Export options: [img]http://i.imgur.com/DqkwgNx.png?1[/img] An OBJ is probably your best bet for porting to Fusion... I'm not far off from doing that, myself. It's a great and intuitive program, but it does have limits that force you to out...

Is it a generation beyond the 085? Or are they just doing a design rev to unify the PCBs between both models?

Here are the pictures I took, as well as a video of a walkthrough that a friend made.

https://www.facebook.com/themakerhive/p ... 2332164769

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_8lpdw8i9jI[/youtube]

My printer has taken dozens of shocks without breaking. Once in a while it will jarble the screen, but luckily a reboot always seems to fix it. I did break one of SeeMeCNC's own machines this way, though! We were doing a Startup Weekend that had something like 6 printers running, and I zapped one of...

Do they get hot? Are you mounting them on a suitable heatsink?

You could also try turning on "bang bang" instead of PID to cycle it less. Maybe that's what's making them unhappy?

Also, you're using a DC-DC SSR, right?