Which upgrades to buy

[djarmag]

Hi all, I am looking to upgrade many parts and was hoping yall can chime in and make sure I have everything I need including the correct optional accessories included. If I am missing anything or have other recommendations let me know, I plan to start a business and want a reliable workhorse in the near future. Thanks in advance!

Duet Wifi with no options - https://www.filastruder.com/products/duet-wifi
3 Stepper Motors - https://www.filastruder.com/collections ... pper-motor
Bondtech QR Extruder with cable option - http://shop.bondtech.se/ec/extruders/bo ... ersal.html
E3DV6 with 1.7mm and Bowden extras option - https://www.filastruder.com/products/al ... 6576668868
Ada Trinket 3V - http://www.oddwires.com/adafruit-trinke ... swodVlUBwA
PanelDue with premade cables - https://www.filastruder.com/collections ... 4655151300
3 Astrosyn Dampeners - https://www.filastruder.com/collections ... my17rmdamp

[mhackney]

My recommendation, and take it for what it's worth:

Ditch the AstroSyns, they are not needed with the Duet WiFi and actually introduce enough wobble to affect part quality (slightly).

E3D V6 Universal version WITHOUT the Bowden option - it's not needed. 12 V version

Also realize, I gave up on getting the accelerometer probe interfaced to the Duet. It was just not up to my reliability standards. You can give it a shot but perhaps trash80's version would be a better way to go.

[djarmag]

My recommendation, and take it for what it's worth:

Ditch the AstroSyns, they are not needed with the Duet WiFi and actually introduce enough wobble to affect part quality (slightly).

E3D V6 Universal version WITHOUT the Bowden option - it's not needed. 12 V version

Also realize, I gave up on getting the accelerometer probe interfaced to the Duet. It was just not up to my reliability standards. You can give it a shot but perhaps trash80's version would be a better way to go.

My issue is I have problems keeping a solid calibration on RAMbo and wanted the Duet benefits, so would I need to do anything else with Duet+HE280/E3D hotends?

[DerStig]

Also realize, I gave up on getting the accelerometer probe interfaced to the Duet. It was just not up to my reliability standards. You can give it a shot but perhaps trash80's version would be a better way to go.

I am using the trash80 interface and it works great

[mhackney]

Bear in mind that we each have differing requirements for reliability and precision. I also have trash80's interface and we collaborated behind the scenes. I also worked directly with the company that manufactures the accelerometer itself. Sure, I can get it to work but any seemingly minor change causes issues. For instance, printing on PEI, I have 9 plates here with PEI on them. Each one responds differently and needs different sensitivity adjustments in order to trigger properly. I don't know for a fact but I suspect it has to do with the difference in compressive flex due to differences in the 3M tape and its application. This is a big issue for me as I constantly move plates from machine to machine. It also means that each surface will have to be tuned, something I am not prepared or able to do for all the surface types out there. I have 2 plates with FabLam on them and they are different than the PEI. Naked borosilicate glass gives the most reliable results, not surprisingly since it is the hardest surface.

The effector mass also has a big influence. I removed the part cooling fans to use a Berd Air. This simple change in mass required retuning the accelerometer

We were/are able to tune the sensitivity to the point where we can actually see the difference in microstepping accelerations, believe it or not. David Crocker also added a feature specifically for the accelerometer probe to arm it only when it is ready to probe so any positional movements don't false trigger.

I can get them to work for myself but not without minor and frequent adjustments. Compare this to my experience with FSR probing (which I have on 10 machines now). I NEVER have false triggering, I can use whatever surface and not make any adjustments, and they work precisely and reliably every time I click the Calibrate button or run my G-code. That's the kind of performance I require and demand.

[djarmag]

Yes, I have similar standards and practices and this is the kind of stuff I want to apply to this printer. I am sensitive to slight changes so I am prepared to put in the time and money to make this precise and consistent, which is why I want to upgrade in steps, practice and perfect that setup, and upgrade again if I need to. With the stock setup, I am seeing too many variables affecting my prints and I am trying to get rid of them systematically.

I do like the glass bed but I still see first layer peeling so I added the PEI sheet. I sanded it down and first layers stick too good, but then G29/Delta calibrations are hit and miss where I go to print in Octoprint and it's too close to the print bed. Still unfamiliar with adjusting Z-height in Octoprint so I switch to MC and direct USB and it works fine. Even then I find myself doing a few more G29 calibrations after checking belts/towers are tight.

Then the next issue I am seeing now is my first layer walls and infill are thinner (tiny gap between extrusion lines) than I am used to using both Cura and MatterSlice options but the next layers are nice and filled, I tried adjusting options in MC as well as Cura slicer and saving that file as Gcode and STL. Still thin with no changes in width but thickness does change. This leads me to believe something in software might have been changed perhaps?

For now I am just going to get the Duet Wifi, PanelDue, and Stepper motors and practice with that setup.

[Xenocrates]

Here are my opinions on upgrades almost any machine could use, with some options for each one. I'm not pricing out the best option, since it's difficult, and if you want that, you may need more research.

Heatspreader:
Bang for buck option: 2-4 pieces of heavy aluminum foil, sandwiched between glass and bed heater. Cost, ~10$ worst case (1 box at amazon prices)
Nice middle ground: Tricklaser AL heatspreader or similar. Cost, 25$
Best option: Laser cut and CNC faced copper platen from Protocase or similar

Enclosure:
Bang For Buck: Trashbag/large pillow case. Cost, ~10$ worst case
Nice middle ground: Raymond style for V2/V1 (I prefer it for those, since I modified it for the V2), Noircorgi's slim for V3. Cost: dependent on material, but ~90$ for polycarbonate or acrylic, 30$ for foam board or similar
Best option: Actively heated, somewhat customized with programmatic control. (Basically, use a Duet, relay, and heat lamps with the above),

Leveling sensor:
BfB: (keep the HE280), or use a microswitch. Cost, ~5$
Nice middle ground: FSR's with printed housings. Cost, ~30
Best option: FSR's with machined housings.

Extruder:
BfB: EZ struder with cap screw in spring, or geared stepper on EZRstruder. Cost ~1-15$
Nice middle ground: Titan by E3D. 70$
Best: Bondtech QR.

Now, there are a lot more modifications you can do than this. For example, I've added LED lighting and a power USB port to my V2, as well as multiple terminal blocks in a few styles. I've also played with cooling stepper motors somewhat (not that it matters much, other than the extruder stepper), and gone to a 24 volt bed. You could add a Berd Air, move to carbon fiber arms with ball cups, go to dual extrusion, or any of hundreds of other things.

[djarmag]

Thanks for those options Xeno, I am wanting to be more consistent by using the heat spread, enclosure, and arms/platform upgrade when I change out the hotend as well.

Please keep em coming!

[djarmag]

Can someone point me in the right direction for FSR setup? I see posts about people having them but I'm not sure which kit to buy or how to build it.

[Jrjones]

Get this kit:
https://www.ultibots.com/fsr-kit/
See Micheal's FSR posts on his blog or search this site.
http://sublimelayers.blogspot.ca/2017/0 ... ystem.html
http://sublimelayers.blogspot.ca/2016/0 ... -fsrs.html
http://sublimelayers.blogspot.ca/2016/0 ... -duet.html

That should get you going in the right direction.

[Xenocrates]

In addition, if you want machined holders for them, if you contact 713maker, Matt may still have the CAM files for the ones he made me, which I think look pretty great, and can be used with just the original holes for bed mounting. In case he doesn't, the step file can be found here. If you go with that, you may need a #4-40 tap (since Matt didn't tap the set I got), and some rather short #4-40 screws to avoid using spacers. If you avoid the spacers, I find you lose next to no build height over the stock version, as the entire bracket is about that tall. I'm a big fan of the design for 2 big reasons, the first being that it is invulnerable to the usual cleaning solvents, and even my weirder ones like dimethyl-chloride, and the second being that they look great (At least to me).

[djarmag]

I was having issues buying the FSR kit earlier but it works now and I placed an order. I have those taps here at work so I will go with the second option. Now just waiting for Duet+stepper motors+Teensy 3.2 parts.

Kinda worried since I'm still new to all this and already making upgrades so imma go grab my helmet please bear with me if I blow up forums in the next few weeks trying to find answers

[djarmag]

E3D V6 Universal version WITHOUT the Bowden option - it's not needed. 12 V version

Why without the bowden option?

[nohc]

Will the stock HE280 bowden coupler work in the E3D?

[djarmag]

Will the stock HE280 bowden coupler work in the E3D?

No, e3d has one built in

[Xenocrates]

E3D V6 Universal version WITHOUT the Bowden option - it's not needed. 12 V version

Why without the bowden option?

Because the bowden option is effectively they ship you another length of bowden tube. You don't need it for a retrofit to a V3