Rostock MAX v3...

[ido3dprintz]

Would someone please let me know which parts package the 1/8" x 30mm heat-shrink tubing is supposed to be in? I am not able to locate it-

Thank you,

Tim

I found mine in the bottom of the box out of any parts pack. I almost threw it away since it was 1/2 stuck to the foam block inside the box. It was there almost as if it was a last second "toss in the box" item.

[ido3dprintz]

I am not having fun trying to get the 26awg wires into the 8 pin connector way back in the beginning of the build. The green wire pulled out leaving some wire strands in the spring clip. I may tin the leads on the 26awg wires to make them more stiff. Anyone else have this issue?

Thanks,

Tim

Agreed, this step was NOT as easy as the video showed it. It's damn-near impossible to not squish the wires when pushing them in. I ended up "tinning" all the wires with solder making them rock solid and then they went in like butter.

[ido3dprintz]

Not excited about the manufactured wood pieces. I'm almost afraid to tighten anything. I did end up getting it tight with needle nose pliers so the piece is functional. I anticipate a few more of these issues as I continue to build this rig.

JJ offered to replace it, but since it works, i'm not bothered really. This is here as a caution for others.


[img]http://i1250.photobucket.com/albums/hh5 ... ni5usi.jpg[/img]

[geneb]

If you had to hold the nut with pliers to tighten it, you cross-threaded the nut.

As to tinning the wires...It's not a good idea.

Here's a good description of the issue: http://electronics.stackexchange.com/qu ... inal-strip

I understand that example refers to a similar kind of of compression terminal that the RAMBo uses and not the 8 pin connector for the hot end, but the same theory applies.

Due to the tiny amounts of current in most of those wires, it shouldn't be a problem - but watch the hot-end power wires like a hawk.

g.

[mhackney]

+1 Gene, never tin wires that are going to be held in a screwed-down terminal connector of any type. An alternative and much better approach is to use ferrules. I've written about them on my build thread. Here is a photo showing them for the power supply connection on the DuetWIDI beta board on my Rostock Max (V1) - they are on the left:

[img]http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/s/v-2/ ... 2837-3.jpg[/img]

[geneb]

The problem with the ferrules is that they don't make them THAT small. The connector in question is a very small 8 pin connector that's designed to have wires pushed into a friction connection. There's actually a tiny slot at each location to push a very narrow flat bladed jeweler's screwdriver into in order to release the wire.

g.

[mhackney]

Makes sense. Ferrules are good when you can use them on larger blocks.

[TwoTone]

If you had to hold the nut with pliers to tighten it, you cross-threaded the nut.

As to tinning the wires...It's not a good idea.

Here's a good description of the issue: http://electronics.stackexchange.com/qu ... inal-strip

I understand that example refers to a similar kind of of compression terminal that the RAMBo uses and not the 8 pin connector for the hot end, but the same theory applies.

Due to the tiny amounts of current in most of those wires, it shouldn't be a problem - but watch the hot-end power wires like a hawk.

g.

I don't understand how it's the same principle. Not trying to be argumentative, but soldering a wire to the pins you push into a connector isn't the same as a wire end that getting clamped be a screw.

[geneb]

No problem. I'm not saying that it's going to be an issue /for sure/. I know that the connector does exhibit some clamping force on the wire via the spring shape of the connector on the inside. Murphy being who he is, not tinning the wires can't hurt.

g.