Hi from Boston, MA!

[sLpFhaWK]

Hi there, my name is James from Boston, MA. I currently have 2 printers, a cartesian style Maker Farm Pegasus 10" Model, and a CoreXY D-Bot that I built from sourced parts. I am very much into 3d printing and I am looking to add a 3rd printer to my lineup but I don't want another Cartesian style as I dislike the moving bed, I love the CoreXY system very much but the Delta style really intrigues me. Its simple design makes it easy to enclose if I decide to go that route, and it doesn't require much space to print stuff just whatever footprint is the base.

My Cartesian is 10" and my CoreXY is 12x8 so I don't really need another large print area so I am torn between the Orion and the Rostock Max V2. I really don't want to purchase a kit, so I was looking towards the Eris as well, but with it being new, and relatively small and slow speeds I might spend the extra $$ on the Orion because it comes preassembled but I noticed it's not tagged with the RTP like the Eris is, so what is needed to be done out of the box to start printing?

I am fairly comfortable tinkering with the printers I have seeing I built them and know exactly how they work and Delta's don't seem too difficult to diagnose but I hear calibration can be a pain. I've watched videos that Seemecnc posted on youtube on calibrating the X Y Z towers and adjusting the z radius I believe, so I get that part essentially, but until I am faced with the problem in person I can only speculate on if it's easy or not.

So this is why I joined the forum, to ask for advice. Should I spend the 999 on the robust Rostock Max V2 kit and assemble it, or get the Orion fully assembled for a 50 increase but lose 5" in diameter and height.

I don't tend to print very large things as it is since I've started printing in December, but bigger is always better so this is why I am torn.

Please members, if you have an Orion or Rostock I'd love to hear your feedback as to why you went your particular route. Or if you have an Eris and you feel I should give that model a chance, please by all means speak up. I want a Delta, I don't want some Chinese knockoff, I'd like to support Seemecnc because they source all their own parts in-house and they are made in America. To me that is important.

Thanks, sorry for the long post but I do need some help =)

James

Edit: spelling.

[Xenocrates]

The orion is usually factory calibrated to within acceptable parameters, but can use tweaking, while the Eris is auto-calibrated and in theory needs no tweaking. Another point is that the Max is available factory assembled too (There is a cost premium though, and shipping is more costly as well). I have a max myself (As my signature states, it's rather heavily modified), and I suggest that you buy a max and build it, because you will understand the wiring and mechanics of it, as well as what can potentially come loose, much better. It is rather different from most printers as to what can cause which issues, which is why I suggest it (Also, less money for more printer is always good, but if your time is valuable enough to you, it may be uneconomical (At that point, neighborhood techies are a wonderful thing to find))

[sLpFhaWK]

I am leaning that way, as I tell other noobies on Reddit asking which printer to buy I always tell them a Kit because you build it, you learn how it works during the assembly and it's good info to know how to fix it if it breaks. The same applies here, but building 2 printers already I'd like to just buy and print but I definitely understand what you're saying. Ugh

lol I wish it wasn't so expensive even a kit at 1k is tough to swallow, both my printers now are about 1200 together =) but they aren't a Delta.

Decisions, decisions!! I need more feedback, this forum doesn't seem overly popular.

[Qdeathstar]

I haven't had a hands on with the Eris, but from what I've read in the topic there are issues with the autoleveling and an possible issue with how heating element attaches to the PCB.

I have the Rostock v2 and I am very happy. It took me about 24hrs to build.

[Qdeathstar]

if you go on 3dhubs (major 3D printing community) you'll see the Rostock is the top rated printer. What more do you need to know.

[sLpFhaWK]

Yeah, the Rostock Max v2 is nice, but damn it looks like a complicated build, 24+ hours. Still i do enjoy putting them together, but I don't know. I'm not in any rush, so maybe I'll order it tomorrow, or Wednesday.

[Qdeathstar]

none of its difficult work, gene's manual is excellent formthe most part (three parts where it got confusing, but i was able to figure it out)

the key is to NOT rush and NOT assume. The instructions say to read the entire manual once before you begin but I read the build manual twice because I'm kind of slow. Also, everyone recommends shellacking the edges of the melamine. I don't think that bit is in the manual. But I'm a terrible painter and was able to paint the edges with shellac then white spray paint then neon green and it came out great.

The Rostock prints small parts just as well as it prints big parts plus it takes up less room than a Cartesian.

[Xenocrates]

My experience building the V2 was that most of the time was spent finding the packet of fasteners for a step, checking them, and then installing them. There are rather a lot of fasteners in the design, so that the printer is as sturdy as is practical. The fact I did it entirely with hand tools (I wasn't about to check the torque adjustments went low enough on a large power driver) didn't help. But it was ~18 hours over two days for me. If I had a parts bin spare to hold washers/nuts/bolts/screws, and pre-peeled the paper off the parts (Or didn't bother with that) it would be significantly faster.

[Windshadow]

the main reason for painting the edges (other than it looks cool) is to control the odor of the laser cut Melamine. and i guess it will increase stability in very high humidity swing areas.

I skipped it as i did not find the spell offensive (and after a few weeks the cut edge smell dissipated on its own. i strongly recommend you build the stock hot end to start with rather than instant upgrade to the e3d as so many have had problems with printing PLA with the e3d which complicated their set up.
the way the build is designed to have you print 2 fan shrouds with ABS for your first prints, is brilliant as the boost to you confidence as the PEEK shroud prints is huge for your first delta print.

[sLpFhaWK]

I ended up buying a kit from someone used, it's not even completely built so I need to finish that, it's at the start of chapter 11. I'm not going to be using that hot end, I will be using an e3dv6. I don't know why people have issues printing pla with a good hotend.

the price was $650 shipped, but it was bought when they sent a PC PSU, I will be ordering the correct PSU after it gets here. Can't wait.

[Mac The Knife]

I ended up buying a kit from someone used, it's not even completely built so I need to finish that, it's at the start of chapter 11. I'm not going to be using that hot end, I will be using an e3dv6. I don't know why people have issues printing pla with a good hotend.

the price was $650 shipped, but it was bought when they sent a PC PSU, I will be ordering the correct PSU after it gets here. Can't wait.

I don't know why people have issues printing pla with the stock hotend.

[Qdeathstar]

^i bought an e3d when I bought the kit, but at the advise if people here, built it with the stock hot end and now the e3d is collecting dust. Stock is perfect for abs/pla.

I would add a cartridge heater and a screw in resistor to the stock hotend, other than that keep it stock.

[Xenocrates]

I ended up buying a kit from someone used, it's not even completely built so I need to finish that, it's at the start of chapter 11. I'm not going to be using that hot end, I will be using an e3dv6. I don't know why people have issues printing pla with a good hotend.

the price was $650 shipped, but it was bought when they sent a PC PSU, I will be ordering the correct PSU after it gets here. Can't wait.

Funny thing. The V1 always used an ATX power supply, and the V2 used one for quite some time as well. If it's a Viotek 450W ATX supply, that's actually original. If it's a slightly better supply, such as a Corsair, EVGA, or other manufacturer, it's probably fine. I personally still use an ATX supply because it has rock-solid 12V regulation (±40mV), and it's relatively quick to swap if I mess something up (Yay fully modular supplies.), plus it provides some rails that I use for other things, like 3.3V, 5V, and 5VSB, not to mention some other potentially useful but rather exotic ones (-12V) that could be used to drive a 24V fan. that one is rather vestigal, but 6W is enough to run 3 relatively small fans.

Best of luck with the used printer. While they are fine bits of engineering, many of the used printers I've seen are in one of two states, nearly mint hardware-wise but terribly misconfigured, or beat to hell and held together with hot-snot and baling wire.

[rehabmax]

After having a reisistor go bad in 6 months after assembling the Rostock Max v2 I am enticed by what I perceive as a better solution for printing. No need for resistors, and the copper silicone. The thermistor is held in place by a small screw, not by more silicone. No need for all the Kapton tape. It seems much more elegant and less prone to failure. Having to take the whole hot end apart and put in new resistors was a pain. I don't want to be doing this every 6 months. I want to be confident in the hot end ability to print well consistently.

[Mac The Knife]

The stock hotend can be modified to heater cartridges.

[sLpFhaWK]

I ended up buying a kit from someone used, it's not even completely built so I need to finish that, it's at the start of chapter 11. I'm not going to be using that hot end, I will be using an e3dv6. I don't know why people have issues printing pla with a good hotend.

the price was $650 shipped, but it was bought when they sent a PC PSU, I will be ordering the correct PSU after it gets here. Can't wait.

Funny thing. The V1 always used an ATX power supply, and the V2 used one for quite some time as well. If it's a Viotek 450W ATX supply, that's actually original. If it's a slightly better supply, such as a Corsair, EVGA, or other manufacturer, it's probably fine. I personally still use an ATX supply because it has rock-solid 12V regulation (±40mV), and it's relatively quick to swap if I mess something up (Yay fully modular supplies.), plus it provides some rails that I use for other things, like 3.3V, 5V, and 5VSB, not to mention some other potentially useful but rather exotic ones (-12V) that could be used to drive a 24V fan. that one is rather vestigal, but 6W is enough to run 3 relatively small fans.

Best of luck with the used printer. While they are fine bits of engineering, many of the used printers I've seen are in one of two states, nearly mint hardware-wise but terribly misconfigured, or beat to hell and held together with hot-snot and baling wire.

The printer I bought was 1/2 assembled and never used, and wouldn't you know the wood parts of the base got damaged in shipping and I am still dealing with UPS to get the replacement parts ordered.. I had to send the entire printer BACK to arizona so the store that packed it up can investigate the damage.. It made it back to them on July 15th.. It's now August 6th and still no update, as of July 28th they said they weren't going to pay the full amount of the insurance because the electronics seemed ok and would only cover the cost of the replacement wood parts which is 170ish dollars but it's been 8 days since 6 of those being business days and the claim still hasn't been updated.. I'm getting really pissed about this entire situation.

Now I hear there might be a v3 of the Rostock coming out soon.. I might just wait and see if they will sell an upgrade kit for the v2 to goto v3 with ABL etc. If I have to rebuild the entire printer again I might as well wait.

[Tincho85]

I feel you
When I bought my V1, a few weeks later the V2 was released.

[sLpFhaWK]

I feel you
When I bought my V1, a few weeks later the V2 was released.

aww man lol what was changed from the v1 when they made the v2?

[PartDaddy]

few weeks...

[Tincho85]

In a few weeks the v3?! Awesome, I cant wait to see that beauty.

EDIT> nvm

[sLpFhaWK]

few weeks...

Ohhh boy! Any idea on the cost for the upgrade kit, if one is to be available?

[PartDaddy]

@sLpFhaWK, I'm hi-jacking your intro post....

I prefer backwards compatibility! Back to 2012 that is, when we were the first company to lead the way into delta's. I always wanted people who support us to be able to use the latest and greatest, so where I could, I made sure to engineer improvements to fit existing machines. I believe this adds tremendous value to our products. The EZR Struder and HE280 will fit all older machines (I still gotta try it on our very first v1, but I'll just use a bigger hammer to make it fit). The EZR and the HE280 are significant improvements when coupled with the molded carriages and ball-cup arms. Print quality is excellent. With that said, a v1 or v2 can be upgraded and perform nearly the same as a v3. The v3 has improved rigidity through injection molded glass filled nylon frame parts and motor mounts. It also has a cleaner looked and half of the hardware for assembly is gone! The HE280 probe hot end means you assemble a kit, upload firmware, probe in about one minute, and print. Oh, you can just unplug the HE280, it's not hardwired. So it's possible to snap off whole hot end and snap on a new one, probe, and print. Or try thicker or different bed materials. Just probe the new bed and print.

This week at SeeMeCNC headquarters:
> Nathan on our shop floor has been programming and machining injection molds like crazy for months. Motor mounts, bed insulator, spool holder, hot end parts
> Mark, our press operator, continues the prototyping task and shoots new injection molds almost daily right now
> waiting on the final heater cartridges for HE280 (yes, I said heater cartridges) The HE280 uses a thermal fuse for safety. These come from oversea's and hopefully meet our requirements.
> I will perform final HE280 testing Friday
> this week, we're also making final tooling for HE280 injection molded 'stand-off' parts
> order production quantities of final production parts we purchase from vendors (stuff we don't make)
> production starts to receive internal workorders
> EZR Struders are in full process, they are working really well with flexible filaments, everything has been working well in the EZR
> our shop gets a new injection molding press (well, new to us). This is gonna cost us almost a whole day, but needed to be done.
> Uri & Petra start cutting some new parts on the lasers this week
> a hundred other things
> Oly will put his signature performance tune on the initial firmware download (which is the firmware on github now)
> Gene will be working a user manual and about all of us will finish the dozuki assembly doc's online this time around
> JJ is the lead engineer on this one. Andy and JJ bounced a lot of ideas around and payed attention to the forum and community

It takes a while to put things together right. Our goal is for you to have a great experience out of the box!

[sLpFhaWK]

@sLpFhaWK, I'm hi-jacking your intro post....

I prefer backwards compatibility! Back to 2012 that is, when we were the first company to lead the way into delta's. I always wanted people who support us to be able to use the latest and greatest, so where I could, I made sure to engineer improvements to fit existing machines. I believe this adds tremendous value to our products. The EZR Struder and HE280 will fit all older machines (I still gotta try it on our very first v1, but I'll just use a bigger hammer to make it fit). The EZR and the HE280 are significant improvements when coupled with the molded carriages and ball-cup arms. Print quality is excellent. With that said, a v1 or v2 can be upgraded and perform nearly the same as a v3. The v3 has improved rigidity through injection molded glass filled nylon frame parts and motor mounts. It also has a cleaner looked and half of the hardware for assembly is gone! The HE280 probe hot end means you assemble a kit, upload firmware, probe in about one minute, and print. Oh, you can just unplug the HE280, it's not hardwired. So it's possible to snap off whole hot end and snap on a new one, probe, and print. Or try thicker or different bed materials. Just probe the new bed and print.

This week at SeeMeCNC headquarters:
> Nathan on our shop floor has been programming and machining injection molds like crazy for months. Motor mounts, bed insulator, spool holder, hot end parts
> Mark, our press operator, continues the prototyping task and shoots new injection molds almost daily right now
> waiting on the final heater cartridges for HE280 (yes, I said heater cartridges) The HE280 uses a thermal fuse for safety. These come from oversea's and hopefully meet our requirements.
> I will perform final HE280 testing Friday
> this week, we're also making final tooling for HE280 injection molded 'stand-off' parts
> order production quantities of final production parts we purchase from vendors (stuff we don't make)
> production starts to receive internal workorders
> EZR Struders are in full process, they are working really well with flexible filaments, everything has been working well in the EZR
> our shop gets a new injection molding press (well, new to us). This is gonna cost us almost a whole day, but needed to be done.
> Uri & Petra start cutting some new parts on the lasers this week
> a hundred other things
> Oly will put his signature performance tune on the initial firmware download (which is the firmware on github now)
> Gene will be working a user manual and about all of us will finish the dozuki assembly doc's online this time around
> JJ is the lead engineer on this one. Andy and JJ bounced a lot of ideas around and payed attention to the forum and community

It takes a while to put things together right. Our goal is for you to have a great experience out of the box!

Hey, Hijack it all you want PartDaddy!

Like I said in my previous posts I bought the printer used, it's a v2 but an earlier model, so I'm going to order a new PSU to be the same you offer in teh kit now, and he ordered a complete new wood parts kit from you guys and it shipped to me yesterday, will arrive on Monday.

So when I get the new printer I am going to completely disassemble what is being sent to rebuild, I don't need a 3rd printer right at this moment and as much as I would love to get the Rostock up and running I think I'm going to delay assembly until the v3 kits are offered, I don't want to build it to have to unbuild it to upgrade it, and for this line in your post

The v3 has improved rigidity through injection molded glass filled nylon frame parts and motor mounts. It also has a cleaner looked and half of the hardware for assembly is gone!

pretty much made me wanna wait until it's available. Or will those parts not be available in the upgrade kit and to only new v3 orders?

My CoreXY D-bot is a solid printer and I am getting great results with it, but truthfully Delta's look awesome, might not offer the build volume it offers but I don't print HUGE things anyway so It will be my goto printer once everything is complete. I'm really looking forward to joining the ranks and can't wait to show my build once it's complete.