Welcome to the SeeMeCNC Community

hi, is there a path to hotbed for the h2 delta hacker series? it used the minirambo board.
im realizing that the hotbed is key to the first layer, esp with abs.
thanks for any guidance and ideas!

also, the hacker h2 delta came with a set of 6 additional hot end 'arms'(i guess you'd call them), theyre' approx 31 cm long (black colored) versus the blue ones that are shorter that are built onto the h2 delta...
so my addt'l question is ' what advantage would this provide? using the other 'longer' arms? also what config changes would i need to make, re calibrate? any other setting i need to edit to take advantage of the possible longer arms?
thanks
m

Well, their webpage describes the two arms, and the requirement of a larger power supply if you want to install a heated bed. https://www.seemecnc.com/collections/3d ... rinter-kit

Orion heated bed and an X-Box power supply from ebay.

g.

thank you everyone, ill be researching the parts needed and the steps!

gene, would that be an xbox one power supply or any xbox 360 as well? also, i assume id need to clip the adapter off and adapt to fit the minirambo connectors? would i then need to also order some parts like wire modulator ends ... to connect into minirambo...?
thanks,
im going to order the orion heated bed now
marc

I actually don't know which one. I've only been told "xbox power supply". I suspect that a connector change may be required.

g.

thanks ill check with the seemecnc guys!

You'll want the power supply from the xbox 360. Cut the end off and park the wires right in the screw terminals for the heated bed input on the mini rambo. After that you just need to wire up the heated bed from an Orion and change HAVE_HEATED_BED from a 0 to a 1 under the H2 section of the firmeware.

Thanks Pouncingiguana, Gene, Mac, and everyone!
i was wondering about that, as i though id need some sort of adapter once i cut the xbox power cord end off. some round adapter for the power switch input.
so by plugging directly in the mini-rambo (its the red and black right?) are we bypassing the power switch? what becomes the switch if so...?
thanks as always,
marc

You have two options. If you want to keep both power supplies, you can just run the Xbox power supply directly to the bed input. It won't draw anything unless the mosfet for the bed is turned on by the mini rambo. If you wan to run everything off the Xbox power supply, you need to T it and run one set of wires to the bed input and another set of wires through the switch and to the main power input on the mini rambo. Don't run the bed wires through the switch or the barrel connector, it'll end badly if you do.

thanks! so ill keep the original power in place for the h2 delta/hotend, then ill cut off the end and instert/screw directly into the minirambo for the heated bed power input. making sure to also connect the heated orion bed wires properly to the minirambo as well to control the temp/heat, etc...
right?

That's right

the orion heated bed came with an led, capacitor, and what looks to be a thermaresistor-single version...? can someone poi nt me where the steps to wire this thing up are? possibly a picture of the completed version, where to solder what, etc...
thanks'
marc

okay, thanks everyone, i just got the resistor, the LED, the thermistor soldered to the orion heated bed, and im about to solder the wires for the thermistor <> mini-rambo link...

SO, exactly where do i cut the xbox 360 power cord in the attached picture...? AND tehn i assume theres 2 wires in there, and i screw tighthen them into the mini-rambo 'POWER INPUT A' screw down 2 wires'..

but due to the fact that this is the power, and im a newbie, that just built the H2, i want to make sure im doing the power portion correctly.
thanks
marc

Is there anything particularly magical about the XBox PS, or will any PS in the 130W range suffice? (I live a few blocks from a local e-cycler with a thrift store; they have plenty of laptop power bricks but not so much in the way of XBox hardware.)

Of note is that some of the laptop bricks are adding a V-sense or a communications wire, meaning that some them may not activate the output until there is some communications (Or do other things, such as changing the output voltage, current limiting, ETC). Best bet in my opinion is probably the correct wattage of Targus or similar universal adapter, with a barrel jack stuffed into the printer, so that way you get the ability to disconnect it and take it somewhere with less power (say a show, dorm room, or camping)

Which power supply you use doesn't matter, but remember that you'll be pulling close to 20 amps through it, so it'll need to be a beefy one. All of them should have their voltage and amperage ratings written on them. You're looking for 12-14V and at least 19 amps to run everything without issues. The Xbox Power supply or an old server power supply are the more popular and easier to find options.

thanks all.