Alternative bed options (i.e not glass)

TheRealRocketBurns · Post by **TheRealRocketBurns** » Tue Sep 29, 2015 8:50 am

So I have been hearing a lot about the PrintInZ Zebra plates:
http://www.printinz.com/zebra-plates/

and the BuildTak surfaces:
http://www.buildtak.com/product/buildta ... ld-surface

What are the benefits/disadvantages of those? How long do they last? Does anyone here have any experience with them?

Also, I have seen lots of users with PEI plates on their machines, what are the benefits/disadvantages of those, and should I switch to any of the options stated above?

(Note: Experienced user here, I have over a year's experience w/ my Rostock Max V2, and have upgraded it extensively (smoothieboard, Prometheus hotend, etc.)

Tincho85 · Post by **Tincho85** » Tue Sep 29, 2015 9:19 am

Hi, I can't speak for the buildtak nor the zebra, but I do have a PEI sheet installed and I love it.
Prints came out really nice. I always print using the matte side.
But... you must have your z height dialed in perfect. If it's too close to the bed the parts won't pop easily. And if you apply too much pressure when removing them, you could lift the PEI from the glass.

Jimustanguitar · Post by **Jimustanguitar** » Tue Sep 29, 2015 10:28 am

I just received my GeckoTek build plates yesterday.

The build quality looks like something I'd do in my own garage (i.e. by hand) but if the material is magical unobtanium, it's worth it. Hopefully I'll let you know how they print soon!

teoman · Post by **teoman** » Tue Sep 29, 2015 11:25 am

There was a fellow over here who was getting an aluminium plate that was coated with PEI. I cannot find the thread now but I do wonder what happened to it.

TheRealRocketBurns · Post by **TheRealRocketBurns** » Tue Sep 29, 2015 11:38 am

That sounds like the best option to me it, if you could surface an aluminum plate to be very flat, it seems like it would deal with all of the bed leveling issues and heating issues all in one stroke.

Edit: also, I think an aluminum build plate with the build tak or the zebra plate would work.

Xenocrates · Post by **Xenocrates** » Wed Sep 30, 2015 12:33 am

I'm planning to face a sheet of aluminum and then adhere PEI to it. I also have and regularly use the solvents to dissolve PEI, and happen to have enough aluminum for two of them, so I may just try dissolving a bit and coating the aluminum with PEI. I do NOT expect that to work out, but SCIENCE. My major concern with dissolving it and coating would be that without major equipment, or building up a machinable thickness of it, you could not get it reasonably flat. One could also only coat the underside with the solvent, and hope it doesn't distort the surface, but then where would the evaporated solvent go? It's a suckers bet in my opinion to attempt a homebrew coating. I think Mike has it right. Also, a major point in the favor of zebra is that it is flexible, and thus backing it with aluminum is likely a bad idea. Build-tack I figure is likely the same.

Do not attempt to use the solvents required to melt PEI without experience with them. Also, do not trust cheap solvents. If you must use it, I suggest using laboratory grade solvents, and respirators rated to handle it. That stuff can and will mess up your lungs. You'll be hearing more from me about it soon, since I plan on taking the plates in to cut and face them in the next 2-4 weeks.

AlanZ · Post by **AlanZ** » Sun Jan 31, 2016 11:16 pm

Jim, I am struggling with a PEI installation. I am considering a GeckoTek plate. Are you still using yours?

enggmaug · Post by **enggmaug** » Mon Feb 01, 2016 7:39 am

I have used Builstak a little. It works well, but in my opinion is too expensive considering the time it works.
After printing several times in the same place, the Buildtak looses adherance.

In my experience, this happens somewhere between 10 to 20 prints. you must try to always print in different places of the plate to maximize the sheet's duration.

I now have PEI installed. Works well, but I don't have enough experience to compare it to Buildtak.

However, PEI seems to be much more resistant in case of calibration being too low... Buildtak will really suffer from it.

Viking · Post by **Viking** » Sat Feb 13, 2016 6:47 am

I just ordered one of these https://estore-sslserver.eu/clever3d.de ... -DeltaOnyx

enggmaug · Post by **enggmaug** » Sat Feb 13, 2016 7:00 am

After few tries with PEI, I am not yet sold.

Many really like and recommend PEI, but I would not.
I used it exclusivelly with PLA, and it does work in most cases, just that until now, I did not print many of the most cases.
Well I m not giving up on PEI, but I've been luckier using paper. I really like printing on paper... its removing the paper from the glass that is a pain....

barry99705 · Post by **barry99705** » Sat Feb 13, 2016 8:37 am

enggmaug wrote:After few tries with PEI, I am not yet sold.

Many really like and recommend PEI, but I would not.
I used it exclusivelly with PLA, and it does work in most cases, just that until now, I did not print many of the most cases.
Well I m not giving up on PEI, but I've been luckier using paper. I really like printing on paper... its removing the paper from the glass that is a pain....

Get another glass plate. Then you can soak the used plate while using the cleaned second, swap when cleaned.

AlanZ · Post by **AlanZ** » Sat Feb 13, 2016 9:45 am

I ordered a Geckotek plate and magnetic base... It should arrive on Tuesday.

Polygonhell · Post by **Polygonhell** » Sat Feb 13, 2016 1:00 pm

Xenocrates wrote:I'm planning to face a sheet of aluminum and then adhere PEI to it. I also have and regularly use the solvents to dissolve PEI, and happen to have enough aluminum for two of them, so I may just try dissolving a bit and coating the aluminum with PEI. I do NOT expect that to work out, but SCIENCE. My major concern with dissolving it and coating would be that without major equipment, or building up a machinable thickness of it, you could not get it reasonably flat. One could also only coat the underside with the solvent, and hope it doesn't distort the surface, but then where would the evaporated solvent go? It's a suckers bet in my opinion to attempt a homebrew coating. I think Mike has it right. Also, a major point in the favor of zebra is that it is flexible, and thus backing it with aluminum is likely a bad idea. Build-tack I figure is likely the same.

Do not attempt to use the solvents required to melt PEI without experience with them. Also, do not trust cheap solvents. If you must use it, I suggest using laboratory grade solvents, and respirators rated to handle it. That stuff can and will mess up your lungs. You'll be hearing more from me about it soon, since I plan on taking the plates in to cut and face them in the next 2-4 weeks.

Coating a MIC-6 tooling plate with dissolved PEI is very popular in Germany, and by all reports is supposed to work very well. The process involves annodizing the tooling plate before applying the PEI, the coating on the comercially available sheets is so thin you can hardly see it, and it's reported to last for years.
The combination is referred to as Dauerdruckplatte, there is discussion about them on the reprap forum, including "instructions".

626Pilot · Post by **626Pilot** » Thu Mar 24, 2016 2:21 am

AlanZ wrote:I ordered a Geckotek plate and magnetic base... It should arrive on Tuesday.

How did it go?

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Alternative bed options (i.e not glass)

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