I recently got my hands on 2pcs of 5mm thick aluminium discs waterjetted out of plain brute constructive aluminium plate (not sure about exact alloy but nothing OOtO for sure). I hope it is as stiff as the boro glas. I still had one of those Gizmodorks 0.8mm PEI sheets that are sold on Amazon with the infamous 3M tape. Previously I did a wet application to the boro glass, and although that looked good in the end I found that it bulges while getting prints off. So this time I tried dry application directly to the alu disc and I am really happy with the result. I forgot to take pictures, but here is how I did it:
- The alu was brute (not painted or anodized or anything, just plain alu, so I took a grit 500 and a 1000 in turn to smooth the surface and get rid of some white alu rust spots.
- This disc has enough weight of it's own to prevent it from sliding over my table (which has a cutting matt on top). If yours doesn't, take a piece of double sided flat tape to fix the disc to the table
- The 3M tape is delivered in a measurement of 30.5 x 30.5 cm is a real pain indeed. because it has a very week structure of it's own, you must use the liner for the structure. Fit the sheet on the alu disc, nicely in the middle of it (with both liners still in place!)
- Take two piece of painters tape (color of choice
) and stick them to the table at two opposite corners of the glue sheet
- Put something heavy on the sheet and the disc, so that the sheet does not move
- Draw a pencil along the corners of the sheet to the painters tape. This way you don't have to guess the correct position later.
- The brown liner is the crafty one that keeps structure to the glue film, and is more difficult to remove against the flimsy white liner.
- Flap back a 4 or 5 cm of a corner of the white liner. Turn it glue side down and position it to the drawn angle. Keep the opposite side also aligned to the drawn angle on the paintertape. Mind that the glue liner still does not touch the alu.
- Now flipp over the 3M sheet so you can take off the whole white liner. Try to do that in one smooth move. Did I mention to make enough room on your table?
- Flipp back the 3M sheet over the alu disc and hold it like 10cm above the angle you drew on the painters tape. mind that you hold a bit of tension to the sheet so that it does not bend and touch the alu
- With a squeegee and NO WATER you can now begin the swipe down the glue against the aly, from the pre-stuck corner to the opposite while still holding the other corner about 5cm high above the table. Squeegee lightly (else wrinkles!) all the way to the opposite corner.
- If you did it gently you will have an as good as bubble free 3M film attached to the alu disc (I must admit that I have a bit of experience as signmaker)
- Now you can squeegee a bit more firmly a second time. Don't try to squeegee out bubbles because you will deform the glue liner and that will become a high area in your printbed later. It is better to puncture the bubbles and press the air out perpendicular to the bed if needed.
- Turn over the alu disc, and cut the corners of the 3M sheet off against the alu.
- Turn it back over again and take out the PEI sheet. LEAVE THE THIN FILM ON AS LONG AS POSSIBLE to prevent static to pull dust or thin particles (3D printing rooms are often no cleanrooms
)
- You can use the painters tape again to position the alu disc in the middle of the PEI sheet. (Did I mention to leave the painters tape with the angles where the are?)
- Now first take off the brown liner from the 3M tape, try to do that in one smooth move
- Then take off the thin film from ONE of the sided (Gizmodork PEI is equal on both sides, it is said that some brands have one matte side, so then it is time to choose to go for matte or glossy). DO NOT LAY DOW THE PEI anywhere, because it is static and will attract dust.Place one corner of the PEI in the angle you drew earlier, press it down and in one smooth move, bend and curl down the PEI with considerable force.
- You get only one try, if you lift the PEI again you can start all over again, and to be honest, cleaning the alu and PEI is not worth my time, I would order new...
- Now you can squeegee firmly, or even take your mum's dough rolling pin to firmly press the PEI to the alu disc.
- Flip over the whole circus and cut the corners against the alu (yes PEI 0.8mm can be cut with a firm stanley knife, it takes 3 or 4 firm traces).
- I was never lucky getting my prints to stick immediately, so I always sand the surface lightly with grit 1000 sandpaper, until it looks equally grey everywhere.
Happy printing! Don't forget to set Z again of course!
Well, sounds like an awful lot of work, but in my case it took only a minute or 5. Reading this story takes longer. Because no water is used, it doesn't need to dry and you can start printing right away. Strongest adhesion however will be reach after a few hours.