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Hello,

I was wondering if there exists a tool to clasp the nuts hid deep in the Rostock.. I'm going to have to undo the screws to put in the new enclosure I got, and I'm not looking forward to messing with those captive nuts...

I think I could probably print something but plastic/metal I'm not sure how long it would last.


Thanks..

[img]https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com ... _QL65_.jpg[/img]I would look at long reach needle nose pliers like these

I would not want to see a tool that could clasp my nuts.

joe wrote:I would not want to see a tool that could clasp my nuts.

That would be one of these a bit large for this application but perhaps they would doc a mouse sized one on special order
[img]https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com ... SX522_.jpg[/img]

EEK!


[img]http://www.simonlockwood.net/emo/abandonthread.gif[/img]

But crunching isn't all it's cracked up to be...



@windshadow... I might be missing something, but I believe I would need something that reaches over both sides of the melamine so I could grip from both sides.... Unless there is a different way of holding nuts that in missing?

Curved nose long reach needle nose let you come at the captured nut from side if you can get at it from both sides which is of course best but requires more disassembly, and keep it from turning in the melamine; you might need to file the tips of the pliers to thin points to be sure of jamming the nut in its pocket. never be afraid of modifying the to tools in your box to get them to d what you want them to do...

one of the gotchas in the captured SS nuts with SS screws in the RV2max is that you can get galling with SS steel threads in a SS nut... my guesstimate over the years is about 5 to 10% will gall and a few of those will gall badly enough to seize (a tip is to rub the ss screws on a bit of wax or soap before you assemble with them but the effect is exacerbated with he use of an electric screwdriver. the faster you spin SS in SS the grater the chance it will gall and seize )

I've had mixed results printing tools. Obviously if the fasteners are (or need to be) highly torqued, success becomes far less likely. You could try making a right-angle needlenose exactly the dimensions you need (and including features to act on all six faces of the nut). PLA is the logical choice. ABS is too flexible.

I use long nose vice grips. After a few rebuilds, the melamine no longer holds a few of them. These have been great....

https://www.amazon.com/Irwin-15-9LN-8-I ... vice+grips

If the nut isn't torqued down hard, a simple flat-blade screwdriver jammed between the nut and the wood may give you enough grip to back out the bolt. Of course, the nut is probably going to fall once you do so, which may or may not be a problem.

I was taught that good practice was to never reuse nylock nuts but that was in the context of working on yachts where a nut vibrating loose could have a less than optimal outcome in some areas of a boat... When i had my own boat for a while I used the procedures I learned making field repairs on aircraft.... If its important (or if you don't know if its important) then safety wire it and do it to a standard.. i made a little tool for cross drilling a bolt head and nut but I think safety wiring the fasteners of a 3d printer might be considered a bit excessive

I could just see that. Safety wired nuts *everywhere*. Someone yells, "Ok, who let the A&P near the 3D printer?!"

g.

Well, I see this topic has meandered to a dark place.


Thanks for the tips! Gonna get me one of those big long needle noses and have at it.

As a former auto shop manager and mechanic, if you need a torque wrench, a compression gauge or a set of wire and taper feeler gauges then you have more repair needs than you can easily perform on the side of the road. In there place I would recommend a torques socket set and generac power systems.