SOLVED: Error printing X.stl from Rostock Max enclosure

[CRPerryJr]

Ok, I'm now at my wits end. (Not a far journey....)

I have attempted to print the Rostock Max V2 enclosure by jfettig on Repables.

http://repables.com/r/447/

Every file from the above url has printed successfully so far except "X.stl". It always fails at the same point in the print with the hotend crashing into the middle of the print. I've printed 5 times using different orientation and different slicers in Matter Control. Please see the picture of the print. I'm pointing at the divot that is made at the same place in every print. All 5 failures look just like this.
[img]http://www.perrydice.com/images/failprint5.jpg[/img]

I'm still rather new to this, but it seems like this file may be corrupt. I've redownloaded this file several times from Repables, so I'm thinking the original may be corrupt. And being a newby, I'm not really good with switching to another software product like Cura. But I will if needed.

Any assistance would be appreciated.

[IMBoring25]

I downloaded it to look at it and Slic3r says it's manifold. It shouldn't throw the slicers a curve, but you never know.

What settings are you using? I was running the hot end and bed at pretty close to a 100% duty cycle on a filament holder for the enclosure for my Mendel and got a very similar gouge in it. On the theory that electronics don't like heat or dropping voltage from an overburdened power supply, I dropped the bed from 110 to 105 and the problem has not, so far, recurred.

I'd also check the mechanicals...Belt and Cheapskate tension, primarily.

[CRPerryJr]

Thanks imboring25. I am using the default settings from seemecnc except I'm running my bed at 95c. No problems with the skates or belts. Anything else I want to print is great! No issues with adhesion either, everything is staying nice and flat. Help?!?

[Earthbound]

Printing from computer or SD card? If computer, try it from SD card. If already from SD card, trying from computer won't help.

[JFettig]

I haven't changed the files on repables. Many have printed it. You should try a different slicer like Cura or KISSlicer, I've heard or too many matter control issues to recommend it.

[Mac The Knife]

I've had similar issues with large diameter files. The hotend would be out at the outer perimeter and all of a sudden slow way down and head for the center. It would dig in causing it to loose steps, or skip belts and then proceed to print on a different plane. I believe the general consensus was that the rambo board is pretty much maxed out with a delta printer. Have you tried printing at a slower speed?

[CRPerryJr]

Thanks all, I'll try all of your suggestions today and let you know how it turns out. First try I think will be the SD card. My speed is only 15 mm/s first layer, 22 mm/s all others, and 200 mm/s travel. I'll try dropping the travel speed a bit and see if that helps too. Wish me luck!

[BenTheRighteous]

Travel speed may very well be it. 200 mm/s is reasonable except for when the effector is at the edge of the build area - better to drop the travel to 150 for those prints.

[CRPerryJr]

6th print...from SD card.

[img]http://www.perrydice.com/images/6thprint.jpg[/img]

Next, I'm slowing down the travel. Lets see what happens.

[3D-Print]

I had the same trouble when I printed these brackets as well and pretty much went through and step by step did what you have done. As "Mac The Knife" noted, my problem was due to the large size print and a loose belt (http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php ... 992#p67221" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;). I readjusted the belts and have had no further trouble. I also printed the belt tighteners and have been happy that they are stable.

Hope that helps, it was and easy fix.

[KAS]

I had the same thing on one of those parts. I ended up rotating the part about 45 degrees to get it to print. Also might want to raise the retract distance for the nozzle. I think mine was 1mm.

[CRPerryJr]

Hey! That's probably the issue! I didn't know I could raise the retract distance for the nozzle....let me try that. Thanks KAS!

As an update, I was able to print the z tower bottom, the x tower top, and all the "betweens". I also printed a few things I needed for my recently crashed quadcopter...(sigh). The saga continues....still!

[CRPerryJr]

I'll double check my belts again too 3D-Print. Thanks!!!

[3D-Print]

I raised my Z-height as well and although it didn't happen as often it still happened until I tightednned my belts. I am going to order a cheap belt tension device and see if I can "develop a standard" for "belt tightness"

[CRPerryJr]

Ok, I've found that my "Z-Lift" (Under Settings/Filament in Matter Control) was set to .2 mm. I raised that to .5 mm, and have slowed my travel speed to 125 mm/s. I'm trying those setting and using the CuraEngine for slicing on the ZTOP.stl file. (Still to scared to try the X.stl file yet.) So far, it's going great.

[CRPerryJr]

Hey 3D-Print,

Here's my idea on a belt tensioner for the Rostock Max. It may take a little imagination to understand, since my drawing skills never got past kindergarten. The idea is to press down on the green lever, and the upper pulley moves up, tensioning the belt. The angled "teeth" hold the position. Now you would need one of these levers for each side of the pulley, but they could be connected by the handle.

[img]http://www.perrydice.com/images/beltten ... ckidea.jpg[/img]
[img]http://www.perrydice.com/images/beltten ... kidea2.jpg[/img]

[Nylocke]

The reason it's probably hitting the part during travel is the high speed paired with a lower delta segments for travel moves. The controller cares less about accuracy during travel, since it technically doesn't matter, but in your case with the low z hop the positioning inaccuracies cause the effector to dip enough during travel to hit your print. The "fix" I use is 1mm of z hop. Of course slower printing helps (it's segments per second, more time means more segments)

[CRPerryJr]

Thanks Nylocke! I've slowed down the travel and raised the Z-hop, and it seems to have helped alot! I'm down to the just the bottom y and x tower files left to print.

[CRPerryJr]

This issue is solved. Slowing down the travel speed and raising the z-lift did the trick! I was able to successfully print all the files. Thanks everyone!

[JFettig]

Z lift is very important! I set mine to 1mm, these machines are fast, you won't notice a difference in print times.

[3D-Print]

That is where I set my Z-lift to as well and have had no trouble at standard speeds. I do think that even with such a Z-lift if you are still having trouble then check your belts!

Dan

[drwho]

I would suggest a few things as this happened to me on a few of the test pieces that I made. First make sure you can a calibration print satisfactorily. I have attached the circle test that I use.

Second because this is a big heavy print you want to more grip on the ABS. Heavy parts will have a higher tendency to curl as they cool. The short reason is the rate of cooling, too fast it will break in order to cool evenly. Thus the need for an enclosure.

I did two things to combat these issues. First, I used an acetone slurry (always over polyimide/kapton tape, if you break your glass you will be sad ) Second, I created a make shift "enclosure" in the interim to keep the parts warmer longer as they cooled.

My first enclosure vs my second enclosure.