So the Raft builds fine, the infill, supports and perimeter all drop down nice, but the 'first layer' always warps. Primarily if it is doing runs of more than 1" long.
ABS filament - Rostock 2 max - prometheus head
- have tried all sorts of temps from 220 to 240
- tried bed temps from 70-90
- sped up the head, slowed it down
- increased & decreased flow
- increased and decreased first layer height
- tried printing with and without raft
- used other ABS filaments
None of this seems to make a difference on that first layer
I am fresh out of patience and ideas.
Hoping someone here has some insight.
Thanks
James
First Layer Warping
Re: First Layer Warping
Hi James,Jamesthiago wrote:So the Raft builds fine, the infill, supports and perimeter all drop down nice, but the 'first layer' always warps. Primarily if it is doing runs of more than 1" long.
ABS filament - Rostock 2 max - prometheus head
- have tried all sorts of temps from 220 to 240
- tried bed temps from 70-90
- sped up the head, slowed it down
- increased & decreased flow
- increased and decreased first layer height
- tried printing with and without raft
- used other ABS filaments
None of this seems to make a difference on that first layer
I am fresh out of patience and ideas.
Hoping someone here has some insight.
Thanks
James
What are you using for adhesive ? Do you have an enclosure? have you tried cranking the heat up on the bed even more?
Machines- Rostock Max v2 with E3D v6, Corsair 750 power supply, PEI bed,injection molded carriages and new arms. Aluminum mount. X carve with x controller. Stratasys Uprint SE
-
Fiddler2070
- Printmaster!
- Posts: 58
- Joined: Wed May 28, 2014 9:16 pm
Re: First Layer Warping
I print on PEI. I also use ABS. I don't know what temps other brands require but it took me a few days to find the optimal temp. I print at 220C and the bed at 110C.
I also use a shower curtain which I use with printed holders to hold it in place to make a ultra cheap but effective temperature enclosure. When the AC is on if I don't close the curtain, the part curls.
Look at my posts and you should be able to easily find the curtain holder.
ABS really likes to curl so you need to isolate the machine unless you are in 80F room temp. If there is any air movement like from a fan, it will probably mess up your print. You might want to try higher bed temp.
I measured my bed temp and there was a 15C difference between the center and the edge of the bed. I added a sheet of aluminum disk. Can't remember if it's 1/16 or 1/8 of an inch thick as a heat spreader and heat mass. Now the bed has a 5C difference between edge and center.
You can get any welding place to cut you a piece of aluminum. It cost me $26. Just tell them 12 inch disk and you need it flat and smooth. Stick it between the heater and the glass.
My guess? bed temp. and maybe cold air. I went down to 100C and my parts curled.
I also use a shower curtain which I use with printed holders to hold it in place to make a ultra cheap but effective temperature enclosure. When the AC is on if I don't close the curtain, the part curls.
Look at my posts and you should be able to easily find the curtain holder.
ABS really likes to curl so you need to isolate the machine unless you are in 80F room temp. If there is any air movement like from a fan, it will probably mess up your print. You might want to try higher bed temp.
I measured my bed temp and there was a 15C difference between the center and the edge of the bed. I added a sheet of aluminum disk. Can't remember if it's 1/16 or 1/8 of an inch thick as a heat spreader and heat mass. Now the bed has a 5C difference between edge and center.
You can get any welding place to cut you a piece of aluminum. It cost me $26. Just tell them 12 inch disk and you need it flat and smooth. Stick it between the heater and the glass.
My guess? bed temp. and maybe cold air. I went down to 100C and my parts curled.