H-1.1 differences

[mhackney]

As I work through assembling the H-1.1 I'll try to post some of the differences from the H-1 manual in this thread to help jump start the process.

Also, there are some updated parts lists and drawings that highlight most of the differences.

Note that each post name will have the H-1 Assembly Manual chapter number so you can cross reference easily. I'll do these in the same order as the original manual if possible.

The primary differences in the H-1.1 are:

• it uses linear rails and bearings for the three axis. These are higher precision the the H-1's rails and bearings
• it comes in a choice of colors (!) with complimenting black parts
• it uses precision bearings for the belt idlers instead of plastic bushings
• it has an updated Hot End
• it has a lower parts count for easier assembly
• it comes with cool adjustable belt clamps/tensioners

cheers,
Michael

[mhackney]

For the most part this is the same as the H-1 but the H-1.1 uses a bearing with an aluminum spacer rather than the white plastic idler and roller. Also, two 1 1/6" OD white washers are used on EACH side of the bearing. Otherwise assembly is the same. See this drawing for details:

[img]http://seemecnc.org/download/H1-1/SeeMeCNC%20H-1_1%20Parts%20Lists/71680%20H1_1%20Front%20Base%20Sub-Assembly%20Exploded.JPG[/img]

NOTE: you can click the drawings to see a much larger version.

[mhackney]

Similar to the Front Base Sub-assembly, the rear assembly uses a bearing for the upper roller but the lower bearing is a white plastic 3/4" OD bushing like the H-1. Just make sure you use the bearing at the UPPER position. Refer to this drawing:

[img]http://seemecnc.org/download/H1-1/SeeMeCNC%20H-1_1%20Parts%20Lists/71681%20H1_1%20Rear%20Base%20Sub%20Assembly_exploded.jpg[/img]

[mhackney]

This sub-assembly is similar to the H-1 but is a lot less work to assemble now that the lock nuts have been eliminated. The 90° Bar Clamps are assembled with a black half and a colored half whereas the H-1 parts were all blue. The colored parts (mine are yellow) have slightly larger clearance holes for the 6-32 screws. The screws thread into the black parts (but note that these parts are not tapped, you carefully screw the screws in to create the threads.) The drawing shows the correct orientation. Similarly, the bearing retaining screws thread into the clear plastic Bearing Plates without lock nuts.


[img]http://seemecnc.org/download/H1-1/SeeMeCNC%20H-1_1%20Parts%20Lists/71682%20H1_1%20Z%20Axis%20Base%20Sub%20Assembly.JPG[/img]

Complete the Z Axis Base Sub-assembly as shown in the H-1 manual - without the lock nuts of course!

[mhackney]

Please note, the above Base Sub-assemblies use 1/4" Finishing Nuts - these are just standard 1/4-20 nuts. You should have fifty six of them according to the H-1.1 Hardware Packing List. There are also four 1/4-20 Nylon Lock Nuts in this parts package. These look like little acorns and will be used on the Z-axis. Do not use them on the Base Sub-assemblies.

[mhackney]

In assembling our H-1.1 I we discovered that the aluminum spacers that go in the 608 bearings on the Front and Rear Base Sub-assemblies are too long and caused a binding issue (on the Back Rear Base Sub-assembly in particular). The spacers were .328" long and John verified that they should be .31" long.

It's easy to reduce the length if you don't have a lathe - use a piece of sandpaper and sand the end. 320 to 400 grit works well and only takes a minute. Put the sandpaper on a flat hard surface (grit side up ) and wet it with some water. Then hold the spacer with one end against the paper and sand in back and forth strokes. It is not critical that the end be perfectly flat but try to do the best you can. Measure with a caliper until you are down to .31".

regards,
Michael

[Eric]

I just took my front one off and it measures .325, so I'm affected. (Side note: I recommend inserting the front SHCS bolt from the other direction...the left-front linear rod clamp is an obstacle to removal when fully assembled.)

Doesn't this need to be done on all the 608 bearing spacers? The X and Z idlers as well as the front/back Y ones? The spacers were all the same.

[mhackney]

Eric, probably needs to be done on all bearings but the rear was a particular problem since the lower bearing is a plastic bushing and is narrower than the steel bearing "stack". That caused it to be too wide so the 60° plastic bar clamps would bend. It might not be so critical on the others. Did you experience this problem with your build on the Rear Base?

Thanks for the tip on the bolt, I'll check that out.

regards,
Michael

[Eric]

Did you experience this problem with your build on the Rear Base?

Not from hand testing, but I'm not operational yet. I've done the mechanical build, but my electronics aren't ready. Mainly because my Atmega2560 board hasn't arrived. I finished building my ramps kit a few days ago. Working on wire harnesses now, as time permits.

[dmpalmer]

I don't see this anywhere in this forum, but there are new (Oct 26) assembly drawings for the H1.1 in the download area.

It doesn't mention it on the relevant diagram, but I had to ream out the screw holes of the (#71607) BLUE parts of the bar clamps on the Z carriage before the printer would work properly (otherwise there was insufficient clamping and the smooth rods would just slide back and forth until the whole assembly fell apart).

[eureka_high]

I'm high school robotics teacher and one of my students is building the H1.1. We are wondering if the extruder assembly is the same as the H1. Also if anyone has images/video of the extruder assembly that they can share we would greatly appreciate it. Thanks for all the information so far!